sgraber
|
posted on 18/11/07 at 01:48 AM |
|
|
I'm not going to say wow again...
.
.
.
.
.
WOW
DAMMIT!!! That just blurted right out!
Love the fact that you are blending old world techniques with new world ones.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
|
|
|
Delinquent
|
posted on 19/11/07 at 12:40 PM |
|
|
excellent combo of the disciplines there Fred! Really is coming on beautifully.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 2/12/07 at 04:13 PM |
|
|
This weekends work......
nose 02 dec 2
[Edited on 2/12/07 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 2/12/07 at 04:16 PM |
|
|
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 2/12/07 at 04:17 PM |
|
|
side 02 dec
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
violentblue
|
posted on 4/12/07 at 06:36 PM |
|
|
so when are we going to see it in primer?
a few pics of my other projects
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 5/12/07 at 06:03 AM |
|
|
Still quite a bit of work to do before I get to the surfacing stage. Still need to complete the reworks on the RHS. and touch up a few other areas
I am now happy with most the shape, just want to do a bit more work on the rear air intakes, I now think they need to be a bit smaller and lean back
less. I think I have cut them too far back into the rear wings, so they are much bigger than they should be. I also want to add a bit more
"bulge" to the inside side of the front wheel arch bulges, above the tops of the front wheels
I have still not yet personally seen a real (or replica) T70 spyder in the flesh and trying to get the proportions and some of the details more or
less right from photographs has been driving me crazy, not helped by the fact that the model I started with, the original 60's built cars in
period (and now), the Lola Heritage continuation series cars, the GD / RCR narrow shell replicas etc are all slightly different in certain areas to
each other.
I have had a lot of help from some of the Lola owning guys on gt40s.com who have sent me photographs and measured dimensions from original cars and
bodywork that they own.
www.gt40s.com
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 5/12/07 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Ivan
|
posted on 8/12/07 at 06:32 AM |
|
|
Fred - I am extremely impressed with the quality of work and effort you are putting into this project.
Seeing the nose done on the 3D router gives rise to the question:
If one where contemplating a similar project on some other car would it be worthwhile getting the shape cut on a 3D router using high density foam or
doing it in frames as you did?
One advantage would be that re-designs would be a lot easier to implement.
|
|
thomas4age
|
posted on 8/12/07 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
Hey Fred
home made portal type CNC router, that sound very tasty!
@Ivan, that's a way of doing it,
but acces to a big cnc portal type milling machine isnt very easy, I know at least one who did it like that, the body plug was milled at a shipping
yard on a 3d portal CNC mill, that normaly is used to make plug's for hulls of 100K+ costing sailing yachts, the total cost for tooling the
bodyplug was somewhere in the region of 15.000euro's
so unless your neighbour has something like that standing in the workshop and likes lots of beer tokens.... it wouldn't be very locost.
grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 8/12/07 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
HI Ivan
If you have access to CAD and CNC machinery at the right price, it will be MUCH easier to get the shell drawn completely in CAD, and then CNC cut in
one piece (or sections) in foam. Nowadays, they cut the foam a few mill undersize, then apply the surfacing filler and recut the plug final size, so
then just have to wax and take moulds.
If the CNC you have access to is a router with limited Z height I would suggest rather than cut thin ribs and fill between than manually, have foam
sections cut in say 30 mm slices, glue then together and then blend the contours together.
With any task that is new to you, you only really know how to do it properly once you are finished! If I was doing this again, I would spend more time
getting the CAD model to be exactly what I want, by comparing it at all angles with photos of actual cars. If you are doing an original body that will
not be a problem.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Delinquent
|
posted on 8/12/07 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by thomas4age
Hey Fred
home made portal type CNC router, that sound very tasty!
@Ivan, that's a way of doing it,
but acces to a big cnc portal type milling machine isnt very easy, I know at least one who did it like that, the body plug was milled at a shipping
yard on a 3d portal CNC mill, that normaly is used to make plug's for hulls of 100K+ costing sailing yachts, the total cost for tooling the
bodyplug was somewhere in the region of 15.000euro's
so unless your neighbour has something like that standing in the workshop and likes lots of beer tokens.... it wouldn't be very locost.
grtz Thomas
My plans at the moment are for a home made CNC mill roughly the same size as the workshop (the workshop is having parts built in specifically for the
CNC machine)
Chances of success - 50/50 I reckon, it'll either work or it won't
|
|
Ivan
|
posted on 9/12/07 at 05:34 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by thomas4age
Hey Fred
home made portal type CNC router, that sound very tasty!
@Ivan, that's a way of doing it,
but acces to a big cnc portal type milling machine isnt very easy, I know at least one who did it like that, the body plug was milled at a shipping
yard on a 3d portal CNC mill, that normaly is used to make plug's for hulls of 100K+ costing sailing yachts, the total cost for tooling the
bodyplug was somewhere in the region of 15.000euro's
so unless your neighbour has something like that standing in the workshop and likes lots of beer tokens.... it wouldn't be very locost.
grtz Thomas
To pay or do it yourself raises an interesting conundrum when you're retired. the conundrum being whether to work as consultant or at something
that you're realy good at and pays well for a fraction of the time that it would take you to do the job and employ an expert to do the building
- the alternative being to do it yourself that could be a real shlep and take years instead of months to do.
One of our local glass fibre firms for example makes some of the most beautiful car bodies for the racing and advertising industry from scratch at a
cost for buck and moulds for what would take me around 4 months of Consulting to earn.
Bodies he has made recently include a Porsche 917, Audi LMP, Mustang, Formula 1 Clone etc.
Why I'm interested is I would love to do a Porsche 904 or 906 or Renault Alpine a110 replica and am puzzling out the best way to go about it.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 9/12/07 at 06:45 AM |
|
|
quote:
One of our local glass fibre firms for example makes some of the most beautiful car bodies for the racing and advertising industry from scratch at a
cost for buck and moulds for what would take me around 4 months of Consulting to earn.
No brainer then Ivan, by the time I have a set of moulds I recon I will have spent at least R15 000 on materials, and that includes getting the CAD,
Router, and CNC time and the foam material for FREE, not to mention the maybe 500 hours I have spent on the pattern already.
Some sources quote 1000 hours for a car body pattern done the old fashioned way, and I can believe it
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Ivan
|
posted on 9/12/07 at 07:38 AM |
|
|
^^^ Thats what I thought Fred - although doing it yourself has a lot of appeal.
Next time I'm in PE I would love to see what you are doing.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 9/12/07 at 12:48 PM |
|
|
quote:
Next time I'm in PE I would love to see what you are doing.
Sure thing Ivan, be glad to show you.
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:17 PM |
|
|
Meanwhile, back in the garage...
I am now much happier with the "hip nostril" shape and size
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:19 PM |
|
|
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:21 PM |
|
|
And I'm making some progress with the rework to the inside of the front wheel arch contours
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:23 PM |
|
|
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:26 PM |
|
|
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 23/12/07 at 06:27 PM |
|
|
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 7/1/08 at 06:20 PM |
|
|
I have taken advantage of some leave over the holiday season to get some quality time in the garage, between family commitments and eating!
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 7/1/08 at 06:21 PM |
|
|
I have been working on the RHS, to get it the same as the reworked LHS. Where I have deviated from the original routed stations, I have to make
templates to check symmetry of the profile on the LH and RH sides.
bb 0200
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 7/1/08 at 06:22 PM |
|
|
You have to be sure to keep the template vertical when checking, particularly where the body slope is steep, hence the spirit level attached to this
template.
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|
Fred W B
|
posted on 7/1/08 at 06:23 PM |
|
|
In order to keep the body as symmetrical and "square" as possible, I check everything back to a horizontal reference plane I have across the
back of the cockpit. Have to be careful you don't loose the centerline on the pattern!
[img][/img]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
|
|