jlparsons
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 03:04 PM |
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I had a sneaky suspicion that may be the case, thanks for letting me know. Gut feeling was to sand off 10mil near the joint anyway regardless of
whatever I'd read, then use spray-on zinc to replace it and paint as usual. Car should then be pretty much imortal! If stainless proves too
expensive then this is my route i think.
Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during
shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Subject to
approval, terms and conditions apply. Apply only to affected area. For recreational use only. All models over 18 years of age. No user-serviceable
parts inside. Subject to change. As seen on TV. One size fits all. May contain nuts. Slippery when wet. For office use only. Edited for television.
Keep cool; process promptly.
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kikiturbo
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 03:21 PM |
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if I were you, I'd use non zinc plated tube, sand everything after welding and then either powder coat it or use an epoxy etch primer...
if you attach the panels with pop rivets, then just spray some waxoil inside the tubing that you drill and seal the rivets with silicone... that
should do it..
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 05:47 PM |
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Hi JL
quote:
Originally posted by jlparsons
Tig - I'd love to try it, but from what i've seen it seems that to buy one with the flexibility to match mig costs at least a grand
(new).
I bought my TIG set brand new for £380, from welderswharehouse.co.uk I think. It is a GYS HF130. It has high frequency start so no tungsten inclusion
in the weld, it has adjustable arc ramp down and adjustable post gas. It is only DC so it won't do aluminuim, but it can also be used for arc
welding. I have welded from 1mm (TIG) to 10mm steel (stick with a couple of passes). It has been a great, very flexible little workhorse for home
use.
Hope this helps
Gareth
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907
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 08:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jlparsons
Thanks Paul G, your advice is well received. I shall research alloy types and hopefully test a few. I know a chap who's a steel stockholder so
hopefully I can get my hands on a few bits and peices to weld then bash about in a pseudo-scientific way.
Couple of queries:
Have you had any issues with galvanic corrosion? Fixings rusting away in no time when in contact with the stainless steel? My gut tells me this
wouldn't be an issue in a car but worth asking.
Tig - I'd love to try it, but from what i've seen it seems that to buy one with the flexibility to match mig costs at least a grand (new).
Is there a significant difference in the weld strength between welds made with tig and mig in stainless? I've heard opinions either way.
Also, it occured to me that a bit of gussetting on the joins most likely to flex and crack might help. Any thoughts?
Hi Again
To answer your questions....
No probs with galvanic corrosion, since there isn't any dissimilar joints. Inner panels & floor are welded
and others drilled & taped using s/s screws.
The humble pop rivet is the rogue in most instances, and I haven't got any of them.
Most variations in welds are between good & bad welds, not between processes.
I'm not a lover of MIG. I have 5 processes at my disposal in the garage and so far haven't needed a MIG.
I use the TIG more than anything, and with a back purge, it's hard NOT to get full penetration.
The only gussets I've used are the seat belt mountings.
Hope this helps
All IMHO
Paul G
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jlparsons
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 09:27 PM |
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Thanks all, that's given me lots to think on. Your car looks a stunner Paul G, best argument for stainless yet, particularly the cockpit. You
do your own nose by the way? What's it made of?
Oh and I'm with you on rivets. Never intended to touch the things myself, even if tapping all them holes is going to be a pain in the rear end.
I'm convinced the fit of the panelling will have a big effect on rigidity.
Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during
shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Subject to
approval, terms and conditions apply. Apply only to affected area. For recreational use only. All models over 18 years of age. No user-serviceable
parts inside. Subject to change. As seen on TV. One size fits all. May contain nuts. Slippery when wet. For office use only. Edited for television.
Keep cool; process promptly.
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907
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 10:19 PM |
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Thanks, but I do only take pics from pleasing angles, and isn't Photoshop wonderful?
Hopefully the body will all ally.
I'm on the last leg, or should that be, I'm on my last legs. 
Just the bonnet to finish and the rear arches to make.
It has been a bit of a marathon. O, and did I mention all that polishing. 
Paul G
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gazza285
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 12:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
Just the bonnet to finish and the rear arches to make.
Oh, is that all? Finished next week then Paul?
As for using pre galved tube (or BZP tube come to think of it), I wouldn't bother. If you are going to grind the galve off in the corners (where
moisture gathers) and then drill loads of holes to fit the floor, panels and all the other crap that needs fitting, you might as well have painted the
thing in the first place. Ask yourself this, when looking at a structure, either made of tube or sheet steel, where does it go rusty first? It is most
likely to be in a jointed corner or along an edge, or where a fixing has penetrated the protective coating, galvanised or not. Plus it looks crap,
doesn't take to overpainting very well, and goes dull grey after a matter of months.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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macnab
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 05:11 AM |
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Has anyone had welding fume fever or galvyflu as it’s also known.
I have (welding up the buggy), it’s awful, felt like I was dieing.
Do that kind of thing outside, with the wind blowing away from you.
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locostv8
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 05:07 PM |
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In my old age I don't fancy spending all my spare time polishing the car. My panneling will be light gauge steel fill welded to the chassis
with the entire frame/tub painted with Por15 then the tub coated inside and out with a light coat of Linex bed liner which is a fairly light polly and
will seal the pannels to the frame.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
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jlparsons
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 10:47 AM |
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Pre-galv tube
Hi Gazza,
I know what you mean about the pre-galv tube and having the corners unprotected, but if I used pre-galv I'd still paint it up as if I were using
mild. It'd be purely a solution to long term corrosion, so to be honest not all that worthwhile, but if I could get it for very near the price
of mild and it made next to no difference in work time then I'd say what the hell and do it. The only bit I'd go out of my way to use
galv for would be the floor sheet, which in my experience is the first to go emmental.
Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during
shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Subject to
approval, terms and conditions apply. Apply only to affected area. For recreational use only. All models over 18 years of age. No user-serviceable
parts inside. Subject to change. As seen on TV. One size fits all. May contain nuts. Slippery when wet. For office use only. Edited for television.
Keep cool; process promptly.
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Peteff
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 05:34 PM |
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I'd still paint it up as if I were using mild.
It'll peel off in six months unless you treat it first. My mate painted his galvo bike shed with red oxide then paint on top and it all cracked
and flaked off. Google it and you'll find solutions to the problem but it's all a bit OTT, you aren't going to drive it in the rain
that often and a mild steel chassis with paint will outlast a commercial car body if you keep it under cover. Edit:- Just another point, I've
never actually seen pre galvanised RHS for sale anywhere. Trailer chassis and such are all treated after manufacture.
[Edited on 6/1/07 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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