So I'm getting a P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 1 fault. Wonder if I need a new lambda sensor.The MAF fault didn't return
after I cleared it.
I have the ecu controlling the cooling fan which came on at 98C and didn't go off until 93C. I was expecting it to come on around the 113C mark
from your earlier post. Is there something not right here?
Also when idling, more so when the engine is cooler is has an occasional moment where the engine goes to stall then there is a big gulp of air and it
revs back up. Any ideas what could cause that?
The code you have found is the heater control circuit.
There should be 12v one side and the ecu switches the other. If the wiring is good then you will need a replacement sensor but I would check and re
check the wiring first.
What you describe is hunting, the ecu will spend some time learning and adapting every time the ecu is reset.
I'll double check the wiring but I had a nightmare getting the sensors out of the old cat. I had to resort to using a blow torch to get some
heat into them to release them. I know they would get pretty hot anyway but maybe I over did it.
Does the cooling fan temps sound ok? I have the ecu switching this so hopefully fine.
What you found is still interesting, I like the idea of switchable two stage as the higher one makes me nervous in traffic. I though it just switched
on at slow speed to pass air over the Ac rad.
I've switched the pins on the ECU connector so the fan is now switched off pin 17. From initial running I think it's going to take a bit
of revving to get the temp up to 113C to test the fan. It seemed to take ages to reach 98C.
I did a continuity check on all the lambda sensor wires and everything was fine so it looks like I need a new sensor.
I've switched the fan from ecu 68 to ecu 17 and it doesn't seem to be working. I let the engine temp get up to 115C and the fan did not
kick in so I switched the engine off. I assume the wiring is ok as it was switching the fan on at 98 and off at 93 when connected to ecu 68.
Just a thought... would the low speed fan ecu pin68 not being earthed affect the high speed fan operating? Just thought there may be some logic
programmed to the ecu to ensure the low speed fan is active before high speed fan?
Thanks to big wasa i have finally managed to start up my st170 fitted to a mk2 escort. just a quick start and idle as no water pump or manifold fitted
yet
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0LRQy8sm-w[/youtube]
Hi everybody!
I introduce myself:
Jean, 46 years old, French locostbuilder: I 've built a Roadster Haynes with a 1.8l pinto: it takes me about two years but it was a great
experience!
Now I wanted upgrade the engine: so I have bought a 170st engine with the original loom.
The first step I wanted reach is to start the engine on a bench:
I 've found on the web the Focus wiring diagram and I realize that some things are missing:
The Imrc Module
The pre and post catalyst heated oxygen sensors
The inertia fuel shutoff
The evaporative emission canister vent valve
the central junction box
maybe some other things but I don't know which!
I have the pats, and when I press the buton to "open the door" on the key, I can hear a "click " in the Generic Electronic
Module
For the inertia fuel shutoff, I have connected the two wires (the green/orange)together
For the ignition switch, I have installed a start buton: I've connected RD/GN and RD together (on the On),, the YE and GN/YE (on the off ) with
a wire to the push buton and on the other connection , the GY/OG wire
I don't know what to do with the two grounds (BK/WH and BK/YE): on the bench or not?
On the diagram, there is a RD/BK wire, but it was not on my switch!
So I try to start the engine:
I put the buton on ON position: I hear the fuel pomp during 3 seconds, but when I press the start buton , nothing is happening
I must specify: the wiring diagram shows just one model of central junction box: So I have found one, recuperated from another Focus model
Well well well, I apologize for my bad english, but I someone could help me , your welcome
Cheers,
Jean
Do you think the engine will start without IMRc Pre and post catalyst sensors?
My starter is ok ;It turns when I connect directly the press buton on the solenoid, but no more
I have some interrogations about the starter relay in the Central Junction Box: someone could tell me what to check please?
Yes it stil start but go into limp mode. Ie fine on the bench for checking it runs.
You can bypass the starter relay if you want to. If your trying to run the donor looms and relays you will have the added complexity of the gems unit.
I can't help you on this.
Hey Big Wasa you still around on here?
i have a water rail on my ST170 from retro ford. the temperature sensor in the old plastic manifold is not a threaded type so i need to swap it.
i fitted this one Reference OE/OEM Numbers: 13627791951, 30874172, 8653103, 8942235010, 34672, 34672, however it is reading way too high, 70 degrees
above ambient so its no good i think its for a Toyota.
Do you know if this sensor will work with my OEM ECU? its the correct thread, and it's for a ford so hopefully the calibration should be
correct? https://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/ford-fiesta-focus-puma-coolant-
temperature-sensor
any help would be much appreciated.
also do you remember what resistor you used in the power steering circuit?
I can’t help much with the temp sensor other than trying a Focus Blacktop sensor fits in the head 1/4” npt ?
It’s a while since ive looked at things but from memory the evap canister purge senses a current flowing through the solenoid. And this could be
replicated with a load. The clutch is a sensor earth to tell the ecu the clutch pedal is up ( normally closed) but I don’t remember the Ac needing
playing with as they would be normally open circuit and are sensors and switches, not actuators.
I will try and get a look over the next week or two as I install my ecu and make up a loom.
Cheers Warren, will give the Puma sensor a go. the other question was about the power steering not AC. is there a wire that senses that the power
steering is at full lock and increases the engine revs? i remember mondeo's had this. the reason i ask is that my tickover is quite high.
As you mentioned the EVAP circuit does that need a dummy load too? at the moment mine just reads that the canister is not present, i don't seem
to have a fault code. will that put me in limp mode?
I am sure the power steering is a load switch and is normally open under normal circumstances so you can just pull the pin. Clutch is the same but
normally closed so needs connecting to the sensor common ground.
The evap is a pwm solenoid. You could just take the coil out of the valve and mount it behind the scuttle, it just unclips. You could just bin it and
see. I would be more interested if you test it back to back and post your findings. Even if it’s only the but dyno . .
As for limp home mode. Some things affect it and so things don’t but with it being pre full Can-bus there is no specific check engine light or it
would seem an actual limp home mode. As it’s cheap I havnt found anyone to back to back dyno it to prove one way or another.
. . 
