FamilyGuy
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| posted on 25/7/18 at 09:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
No pin 7.
This is my test rig and I’ve used this to program the ecu and all sorts.
You are correct, the clutch switch is normally open so you can just remove the pin.
The power steering switch is the one normally closed so is the one to earth.
Hmm, I seem to have fewer wires connected than you, but my OBD port is as it was in the focus. I had all wires below connected with the exception of
pin 7
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 05:17 AM |
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St170 has two more wires than the base model as it has canbus.
They also may use different pins for different modules ie pin 7 is the K line and according to the ford diagrams may be used for the telemetrix.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 07:58 AM |
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Hi. Where did you find your ford diagram?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 11:37 AM |
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Somebody posted them on this link.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 06:31 PM |
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Big_Wasa, the image supplied for connecting the led to ecu, has the ecu as a 6MYD (Focus Rs mk1), using pins 53, 19 and 42. It also has the aerial
connectors 1-4.
Is it the same way of connecting as with the 3NFA for the ST170? It also has the aerial connectors 1-4, so would these be the same?
Im starting again with the newer ecu, key and aerial, that should arrive tomorrow. I'm also checking for any mistakes as I reconnect.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 07:05 PM |
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Yeh it’s the same.
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 26/7/18 at 09:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
St170 has two more wires than the base model as it has canbus.
They also may use different pins for different modules ie pin 7 is the K line and according to the ford diagrams may be used for the telemetrix.
Looks like I'm missing pins 6 and 14. Wondering how it ever worked in the focus as I haven't removed any wires when I took it out the car.
Need to find an extra pin for the missing wires now
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big_wasa
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| posted on 27/7/18 at 05:21 AM |
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They are the can bus pins. You're obd2 should still communicate on the other data platform.
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Pigsy
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 posted on 30/7/18 at 06:22 PM |
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"How to" OEM Focus ST170 ecu with Pats info.
Hi. I have at last got the led to flash correctly, then disappear when the relay to the switched items is powered up. It is a great feeling. The
problem has been that the key was not matched to the ecu. It is now the third one that I have tried and it has brought success.
I have subsequently wired up the various component sensors needed like fuel injection, the fuel pump which is priming nicely, the cam and crank
sensors, tps, imrc, and many others and the led is is still fine.
My problem is that I have no spark. I have 12v to the 3 pin plug on the coil, apart from that, can you think of what the likely cause is? All
suggestions will be helpful.
Pigsy
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 30/7/18 at 08:35 PM |
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Might sound obvious but have you got the engine block earthed?
Only thing I can think of if all wires to coil and other sensors are properly wired up.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 30/7/18 at 09:52 PM |
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Very well earthed in two places and across the gearbox as well. I will double check the wires to the coil as well. Thanks for replying.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 30/7/18 at 09:57 PM |
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Im setting up forscan with a switched elm 327 obd2 reader via laptop. It may say what is wrong.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 07:39 AM |
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The ecu will only fire the plugs if it knows the engine is cranking.
More important than a code, look at live data to show the ecu is seeing the sensor. Ie your looking for an rpm signal.
This plug is polarity sensitive check its wiring is the correct way around. All st170's where manual gearboxes but is there any possibility the
crank sensor housing has been swapped for an automatic ?
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Pigsy
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 10:23 AM |
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I swapped the sensor to the front with a missing tooth setup. I will check it’s polarity.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 10:51 AM |
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Sounds like this will be your problem. Chances are its to far away, to near and its damaged.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 02:26 PM |
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The three wires to the coil are two earths and a centre power supply. Anyone know it’s voltage please? Is the coil wired to the ecu or ignition
switch?
From what I have read, it is either 5v or 12v or wait for it: actually both 5v and 12v at the same time, which it cannot be!
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 03:53 PM |
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It's a 12v supply. I have mine connected to the power relay output. If you are not using a power relay it would connect straight to ignition
switch or whatever switch you were using to power the engine up.
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daviep
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 05:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Pigsy
The three wires to the coil are two earths and a centre power supply. Anyone know it’s voltage please? Is the coil wired to the ecu or ignition
switch?
From what I have read, it is either 5v or 12v or wait for it: actually both 5v and 12v at the same time, which it cannot be!
Not familiar with your particular setup but normally the coil is supplied with positive and the ecu switches the negative side of each coil. When the
current stops flowing the electromagnetic field in the generated by the primary coils collapses and induces a voltage on the secondary winding causing
a spark. If you don't have the negatives wired to the ecu you won't get a spark.
Or that's how I understand it works.
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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Pigsy
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| posted on 31/7/18 at 08:49 PM |
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you guys are so helpful. Thanks for that.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 8/8/18 at 10:00 PM |
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I actually got it going today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a very large thanks to all who helped me to do so.
I have discovered that the intake valves are not sealing. Piston 3 just exhaling everything out of the gsxr750 no3 inlet. Nightmare. Anyone know of
any problems associated with the 2002 st170 head that would cause this?
Thanks again........
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/8/18 at 07:01 AM |
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If the valves are not sealing there are a few possibilities, burnt valves/seats , damaged cylinder head ,, bent valves , sticking valves, , valve
being held open due to incorrect valve clearances, valve seat recession (unlikely) or as I had a few years ago a floating valve guide again unlikely.
Incorrect valve timing I would expect to affect all cylinders. I would start by checking the valve clearances especially if the cams have been out .
An exhaust valve not opening can cause spitting back through the inlet but I haven't come across that for many years.
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Pigsy
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| posted on 9/8/18 at 10:41 PM |
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2 bent inlet valves. :-(
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 10/8/18 at 07:05 AM |
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I would remove all valves , clean ,check seats and if needed relap before reassembly . Don't forget to check and adjust the valve clearances .
Wonder why only two bent valves ?
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FamilyGuy
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| posted on 10/8/18 at 03:22 PM |
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Glad you got it started, must have been a relief. Shame you've unearthed another problem.
[Edited on 10/8/18 by FamilyGuy]
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Pigsy
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| posted on 11/8/18 at 12:24 AM |
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It’s not pleasant, but then it’s ok. Mighty relieved it ran at all. Thanks for your needed help.
I don’t know if anyone has had this but without a car reg or vin number, motor factors are useless! I had the Alda engine head and block numbers but
even though they saw them on the screen, would not sell the valves to me.
I just looked up a 2002 focus st170 for sale on eBay and used it’s registration number. Worked a treat. None in stock. I will get them tomorrow
morning. Guess what I’m up to tomorrow?
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