oldtimer
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 07:26 AM |
|
|
Aly body panels - are pop rivets butch??
OK it is time to skin my chassis. The question is do I glue on the panels on the exterior and have lots of pop rivet heads showing - which could look
quite mean, or, messy depending on how you feel about these things. Or bend it round, which is cleaner. Thoughts please. Exterior does mean you can
pop rivet bracing too. How do exterior panels and rivets go on SVA??
Cheers
|
|
|
speedyxjs
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 07:32 AM |
|
|
Im thinking about the same thing. I dont think rivets are an SVA issue. Im not to sure about which i prefer. Panels folded over does look neater but i
also like the 50's look of rivets on the outside.
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
oldtimer
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 07:57 AM |
|
|
Exactly, SVA wise I do remember sombody talking about little inserts for the centre of rivet heads and don't know if this was SVA, cosmetic,
or.. just my memory playing up.....
|
|
BenB
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:01 AM |
|
|
It's worth using sikaflex and rivets- you'll increase the chassis rigidity.
Personally for the bottom of the ali panel I'd fold them over then rivet from underneath.
Rivets are no problems for SVA.
It's worth considering using closed rivets for the chassis rivets. If you use normal open rivets water can get in through the holes in the
middle of them and rot the chassis tubes from the inside out. You can seal them with a smear of silicone sealant but using closed rivets in the first
place seems a better solution to me!! You really need a compressor powered rivet gun for closed rivets though...... Hand powered rivet guns will
struggle....
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:06 AM |
|
|
rivets everywhere, love em looks proper race car then
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
foes
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:09 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by BenB
It's worth using sikaflex and rivets- you'll increase the chassis rigidity.
Personally for the bottom of the ali panel I'd fold them over then rivet from underneath.
Rivets are no problems for SVA.
It's worth considering using closed rivets for the chassis rivets. If you use normal open rivets water can get in through the holes in the
middle of them and rot the chassis tubes from the inside out. You can seal them with a smear of silicone sealant but using closed rivets in the first
place seems a better solution to me!! You really need a compressor powered rivet gun for closed rivets though...... Hand powered rivet guns will
struggle....
Yep, closed rivets for sure, mine were supplied by ian gray at stuart taylor 4.8mm large head jobbies, all rivetted by hand
I went through the same dilema for weeks, but ended up going for folded edges and rivetting from underneath and inside so no rivets are visible on the
exterior, looks much neater i must say.
|
|
Bluemoon
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:15 AM |
|
|
Personal preference.. About where to have you rivets.. Personally like clean looking side panels, so bent them over..
If you have not got you rivets I would have a chat to primary fastener http://www.prifast.co.uk/
great guy he will sort you out with decent multi grip Avex rivets (these are sealed even though they are not "closed" rivets), as opposed
to the cheap pop type.. He also sells a half decent hand rivet tool to pull them as well..
Dan
[Edited on 21/4/08 by Bluemoon]
|
|
procomp
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:16 AM |
|
|
Hi did somebody mention loads of RIVETS. It's not a proper car unless it's got a min of 4000 in.
Description
[/img]
Cheers Matt
|
|
Bluemoon
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:19 AM |
|
|
Nice... Like the look 8d spacing spot on!..
Dan
|
|
speedyxjs
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:21 AM |
|
|
^^^
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:35 AM |
|
|
that looks so
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
Davey D
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 08:47 AM |
|
|
Im sure Landrover shells have lots of rivets on the outside holding them together?
|
|
iank
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 09:03 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by oldtimer
Exactly, SVA wise I do remember sombody talking about little inserts for the centre of rivet heads and don't know if this was SVA, cosmetic,
or.. just my memory playing up.....
You can get little plastic caps that go over rivets. Purely cosmetic I think.
Picture in this thread
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=57916
Though Prifast don't have them on their website anymore so I don't know where you'd get them.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
BenB
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 09:04 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by foes
quote: Originally posted by BenB
It's worth using sikaflex and rivets- you'll increase the chassis rigidity.
Personally for the bottom of the ali panel I'd fold them over then rivet from underneath.
Rivets are no problems for SVA.
It's worth considering using closed rivets for the chassis rivets. If you use normal open rivets water can get in through the holes in the
middle of them and rot the chassis tubes from the inside out. You can seal them with a smear of silicone sealant but using closed rivets in the first
place seems a better solution to me!! You really need a compressor powered rivet gun for closed rivets though...... Hand powered rivet guns will
struggle....
Yep, closed rivets for sure, mine were supplied by ian gray at stuart taylor 4.8mm large head jobbies, all rivetted by hand
I went through the same dilema for weeks, but ended up going for folded edges and rivetting from underneath and inside so no rivets are visible on the
exterior, looks much neater i must say.
you must have fore-arm muscles like Arnie!!! I used the same STM 4.8mm's and they're a PITA to do by hand!! Infact, I broke 2 rivet guns
trying to do them!!
|
|
aerosam
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 09:14 AM |
|
|
Would one of these make it easier?
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht132-lazy-tongs-riveter/path/staplers-riveters-2
Or would you already be using one?
|
|
Dangle_kt
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 09:21 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by procomp
Hi did somebody mention loads of RIVETS. It's not a proper car unless it's got a min of 4000 in.
Description
[/img]
Cheers Matt
LOVE IT!
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 09:50 AM |
|
|
I have lazy tongs, brill but you have to rememeber to pull them towards you when the rivet is about to snap as otherwise the tong will smack the car
and leave a dent
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
blakep82
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 10:22 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Dangle_kt
quote: Originally posted by procomp
Hi did somebody mention loads of RIVETS. It's not a proper car unless it's got a min of 4000 in.
Description
[/img]
Cheers Matt
LOVE IT!
yeah, thats hot
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:04 PM |
|
|
Though not in the same league rivet number wise I thought this side pod turned out well, used counter sunk rivets.
Rescued attachment side pod.jpg
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
MikeR
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:07 PM |
|
|
What's the idiot way of spacing the rivets so they look evenly spaced ?
Seem to recall being at a pub meet in 2002 (ish) and someone saying that you make up a sliding jig using some wood or steel and .....
my memory goes blank at this point.
(and yes, that does look pretty damn fine Matt. Seem to recall someone on here had problems with the locost formula for doing something similar in its
early days. People where complaining it made the chassis a monocoque or something).
|
|
blakep82
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:13 PM |
|
|
^ a peice of metal (angle perhaps to get the right spacing both on the tube and between rivets?) with 2 holes in it at the correct distance apart?
drill, put something in the new hole and the one in the angle, drill through the next hole, etc
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:18 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by MikeR
What's the idiot way of spacing the rivets so they look evenly spaced ?
Seem to recall being at a pub meet in 2002 (ish) and someone saying that you make up a sliding jig using some wood or steel and .....
my memory goes blank at this point.
(and yes, that does look pretty damn fine Matt. Seem to recall someone on here had problems with the locost formula for doing something similar in its
early days. People where complaining it made the chassis a monocoque or something).
I just put the two end ones in, then put one in the centre of those two and repeat the same process, that way the spacing is identical for that row.
Best to draw a line with a black permanent pen and make the rivet positions before you drill. White sprit removes the pen marks. Oh and a centre punch
prevents any nasty accidents.
[Edited on 21/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
paulf
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:29 PM |
|
|
You could make a jig but i used a pair of dividers .I just scribed a line 1/2 inch from the edge of panel and then decided on the spacing and marked
out with dividers and centre punch, its a bit slower but by the time you have made a jig and set it up probably not much more work.Just remember to
mark out the back of the panels as it takes a lot of polishing to remove scriber marks.
I made the panels flat on the side of the car rather than overlapping the tubes as i thought it would be more rigid than a folded panel secured the
opposite side of the tube, also much easier to do and the rivets dont look out of place on a seven .
Paul.
quote: Originally posted by MikeR
What's the idiot way of spacing the rivets so they look evenly spaced ?
Seem to recall being at a pub meet in 2002 (ish) and someone saying that you make up a sliding jig using some wood or steel and .....
my memory goes blank at this point.
(and yes, that does look pretty damn fine Matt. Seem to recall someone on here had problems with the locost formula for doing something similar in its
early days. People where complaining it made the chassis a monocoque or something).
|
|
Bluemoon
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:44 PM |
|
|
Hi Paulf,
Yep rivets on the outside of the side panels probably increases chassis stiffness particularly if you rivet all tubes as pro comps pic. If you put
them on the fold so you can't see them I doubt it adds any more stiffness at all.
Dan
|
|
907
|
posted on 21/4/08 at 12:49 PM |
|
|
There's a tool that looks like the expanding bit of a lazy tongs riveter with a hole in every pivot.
It's used in aircraft construction, but I believe they use proper (solid) rivets.
Paul G
|
|