type 907
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| posted on 20/12/03 at 10:28 AM |
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Cortina bottom ball joint
Hi Chaps,
The bottom wishbone in "The Book" looks just a tad scrappy IMHO, so how about this for a posible alternative.
The angled flange on the Cortina ball joint has to go, so out with the hacksaw and cut it off. Drill two more holes on the same rad as the remaining
holes to replace the ones you have just cut off; (now back to four holes).
Make your wishbone plate with a large hole that allows the ball joint to be mounted from the underside, and match drill the four bolt holes. (see
pickie)
What do you think?  or 
Paul G
 
Rescued attachment wishbone asy.s.jpg
Too much is just enough
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James
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| posted on 20/12/03 at 11:25 AM |
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You could always buy maxi BJs and modify you w/bones a bit- but they're a lot more expensive.
What I did was cut a groove with the angle grinder along the length of the fold each side and then bend it flat. I then welded along the line of the
weld. On the underside of the BJ I then ground the weld line flat so it would mount properly.
HTH,
James
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James
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| posted on 20/12/03 at 11:26 AM |
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P.S. I did not do the welds all in one go as you'll melt the BJ!!!
I did each side in two/three welds and cooled it with water each time to try and stop it melting!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 20/12/03 at 11:33 AM |
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They look really good, my only reservation would be the size of the bolts, they look like M8 instead of M10 and seem to be closer to the balljoint
than original which may weaken the ball plate.
I made mine to book with a little modification to the bottom plate to make it neater and stronger
 
Rescued attachment NSFSusp.jpg
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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type 907
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| posted on 20/12/03 at 11:52 AM |
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The wishbones are stainless, in fact the whole chassis is stainless, so the bolts are high tensile stainless alloy, (M8).
Paul G
Too much is just enough
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Rorty
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| posted on 22/12/03 at 01:28 AM |
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type 907:
quote:
the bolts are high tensile stainless alloy, (M8)
Got specs on those bolts? Unless you've got access to stuff I can't get, they'll not be anywhere near as good as Class 10.9 M8
fasteners.
Be careful, that area is the most highly stressed in your whole front suspension.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Steve Hnz
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| posted on 23/12/03 at 11:59 AM |
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Paul, as an intending locost builder, perhaps accumulator of bits is more accurate at this point, I`ve pondered the very point you make & think it
looks great. As far as I can work out the forces in the bottom wish bone are trying to pull the ball joint apart &/or trying to pull the bolts
out, hence Rorty`s concern re bolt tensile strength. With the ball joint mounted underneath, apart from looking tidier the issue of bolt strength
should be less important as they are primarily there just to locate the ball joint. I do though share Marks concern that by shortening the cortina
ball joint bottom plate then you leave the whole of the joint unsupported by the bottom wishbone side arms & relying on a piece of 3mm plate to
contain the considerable bending forces that must be present. While I`m keen to try something similar, I`d wish to leave the cortina ball joint alone,
perhaps alter the shape of the end of the side arms so it will fit underneath, or use heavier plate for this. MK seem to use about 6mm in theirs now
from pics I`ve seen, & Tiger Avon show the use of 10mm plate in their book. There are obvously weight penalties with both of these
approaches.Sorry if that makes me sound like a wet blanket
[Edited on 23/12/03 by Steve Hnz]
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type 907
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| posted on 23/12/03 at 08:40 PM |
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Hi Steve
Thanks for your (& everyones) comments.
As the w/b's are stainless they are much
stronger than mild steel. I have also increased the thickness of the gusset to
4mm as are the brackets welded to the
chassis. The gusset meets the side tubes
on their centre line, not sat on top, which
allows a fillet weld both sides, generaly
accepted as being stronger than a lap
joint. You are not Steve, a wet blanket.
Paul G
Too much is just enough
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Steve Hnz
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| posted on 23/12/03 at 09:33 PM |
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Thanks Paul, I now feel reassured, a Good Festive season to you & all. Cheers, Steve H
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Rorty
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 03:18 AM |
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Out of interest Paul, what dimension and grade of stainless tubimg are you using?
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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type 907
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| posted on 24/12/03 at 08:08 AM |
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Hi Rorty
First things first.
A Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year to you & everyone else on this site.
Stainless grade & size used on the Sutol 7
Chassis 25x25x1.5 ERW HS 304
Top & bottom front W/B's & top rear
1/2" NB Sch10 Seamed Pipe 304 &
1" NB Sch80 (bored to 25mm typ.)
Bottom rear W/B
3/4" NB Sch10 (Main legs) 304
1/2" NB Sch10 (Brace) 304
1" NB Sch80 (Bush tube) 304
Paul G
Too much is just enough
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Rorty
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| posted on 25/12/03 at 08:22 PM |
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type 907, not wanting to spoil any Christmas harmony, but your statement;
quote:
As the w/b's are stainless they are much stronger than mild steel.
turned my worry meter up a bit.
Just be aware base 304 stainless is only 215 MPa, and at best, 304N is 330MPa.
You can get higher yeild stainless such as some of the 302 series which can yeild as high as 550MPa.
Ordinary 1020 CDS mild steel tube (I use it for all my chassis/frames) has a yeild strength of between 350 and 375MPa.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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