Ken
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 09:20 AM |
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brake system locking up
Help,
I have ecsort mii drums on the rear cortina discs on the front, mii escort duel circuit master cylinder. the drum cylinder. disc brakes and tobing is
all new, the master cylinder has new seals. However the system locks up with the brake pedal rock hard.
Does anyone have any idea's as to why?
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 09:30 AM |
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Slacken of the shoes a bit more at the back, plus if your brake hoses are old they may have collapsed inside and are acting like a valve preventing
the fluid releasing pressure. Check if the drums are hot, if so slacken them off, if that’s not fixing it then it’s the hoses.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Bob C
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 09:50 AM |
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Such "lockup" is often caused by the master cylinder plunger not coming back out all the way when the brake pedal is released. Make sure
you've got this adjustment right (brake pedal backstop and clevis/plunger rod thing length)
Bob
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wilkingj
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 10:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bob C
Such "lockup" is often caused by the master cylinder plunger not coming back out all the way when the brake pedal is released. Make sure
you've got this adjustment right (brake pedal backstop and clevis/plunger rod thing length)
Bob
Yep I have had this on my Land Rover. ie not enough slack in the m/Cylinder push rod.
A common problem.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 10:48 AM |
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By locking up you mean binding to the point of locking the the wheel solid.
As already sugested this is Master Cylinder piston movement problem, something is stopping it returning fully, this effectively blocks off
the fluid passage to the resevoir causes hydraulic lock as the brakes warm up and the fulid expands.
A apart from the pedal not having enough free movement to allow it to return fully this problem is often caused by the mushroom pedal push rod
fouling on the end stop washer and not allowing the piston to come fully off.
As already sugested try shortening the push rod or adjusting the pedal stop to allow the pedal to come further back ie "off"
If the that dosen't work look at the mushroom and washer on the end of the cylinder, sometimes careful work with a grinder and or using a
thinner washer with a very slightly bigger hole is enough to do the trick.
The best solution is to use a proper non-servo tandem master cylinder that come complete with pushrod than adapt a cylinder designed for use with a
servo.
[Edited on 17/6/08 by britishtrident]
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 02:21 PM |
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i think I am right in that there should be a return spring on the pedal too.
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ReMan
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| posted on 17/6/08 at 10:30 PM |
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Probably not, to prevent it pulling the pushrod out of the cylinder.
BTW great avatar!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/6/08 at 11:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Probably not, to prevent it pulling the pushrod out of the cylinder.
BTW great avatar!
The push rod shouldn't be able to come out the cylinder, the end of the cylinder should have a washer and circlip that prevent the mushroom head
end of the pushrod coming out. --- that one of the main reasons why it is important to use a master cylinder designed for use without a
servo.
 
Rescued attachment 173.jpg
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/6/08 at 11:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
i think I am right in that there should be a return spring on the pedal too.
Yes it should pull the push rod back.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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