jonbeedle
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 04:11 PM |
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PANTS!!!!!!!!
Failed at Norwich today
If it hadn't been for the excessive noise or the leaking wheel cylinder I could have sorted the rest of the niggles there and then and passed
first time! As it was, they made me get a recovery truck to take it home at £130 This is turning into an expensive day out!
The wheel cylinder and other bits are easy fixes but I have no idea how to quieten down the car. It was 104db. They suggest a decibel reducer thing
that fits into the exhaust but that may not be enough. The silencer is sealed so I can't repack it even if I knew how to. Any suggestions on what
to do?
Also any ideas on how best to cover the top ball joint lock nut....they didn't like my foam rubber bits!!
On the positive side, the car drove well on the fifty mile journey to Norwich without missing a beat and the bloke said that despite the few faults it
was in fact a very good car.
Cheers
Jon
 
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"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 04:16 PM |
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2
2
 
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"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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john_p_b
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 04:27 PM |
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top ball joint nut cover
used electrical insulators on mine, the kinda thing you see going in to junction boxes on the thick industrial type wires, they're kinda cone
shaped but if you trim them down they can fit on really tight and look quite smart. got mine from B&Q.
built a car, built a home, had a family. lost the family, lost the home, still got the car.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 04:28 PM |
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I covered my Stering rack / extensions and joint nuts with a bit of bike inner tube, then covered that with a bit of Split Convoluted tube (Left over
from the wiring job) and secured it with Tie wraps.
On the Top joints I used those ball joint plastic covers, but they were so tight, I slit them underneath, and secured them with a couple of cable
ties.
Have a look in my SVA section. I also used bike inner tube to cover the wishbone brackets (not shown in piccy below)
 
Front Suspension Area
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Alan_Thomas
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 04:54 PM |
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Jon, Could have been worse the unfortunate bit was having the car 'grounded' for the drive home.
Top ball joint nuts - I used rubber hose pipe about 4 inches long each side (I think it was an old top hose), split down the side to get it over the
track arm and then used black insulation tape neatly wrapped around the whole length to hold it in place.
Noise - my 1300 Xflow had the same reading as yours at its first test and the exhaust was a 'standard' caterham system I managed to pick
up cheap. I made up a section of 22mm pipe about 200mm long drilled a load of holes in it and welded one end up.
I then made a 'washer' that was a push fit up the tail pipe and slipped over the drilled tube and welded it to the drilled tube.
Banged it up the tail pipe and the noise measured just over the 100db which passed the test. needless to say it 'fell out' after the
test!
Just a quick question- what max revs did you quote on the form? Some people proudly put 6000 then they get tested at 4000. I put 5000 on the form and
they test at 2/3 of that which was about 3300 and the engine is much quieter at those revs.
- Alan
PS next time you will pass!
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907
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 06:04 PM |
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This any help Jon?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SVA-TOP-BALLJOINT-COVERS-LOCOST-MK-MAC1-kit-car-7_W0QQitemZ230005017910QQihZ013QQcategoryZ100921QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Also I have a T/Ace can you could borrow.
HTH
Paul G
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 06:12 PM |
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Jon , I have a pair on my car that are about to fall off if any use to you . No longer working in Milton but if any help I'm in most evenings if
you want to collect from Shelford (about a mile from Addenbrooks as the crow flies)
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 06:58 PM |
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Thanks everyone. I'll be in touch! Talk to you all later, I must get into the garage as my insurance runs out in 29 days and need to get my
retest booked .................. for next week hopefully!!!
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 07:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Jon , I have a pair on my car that are about to fall off if any use to you . No longer working in Milton but if any help I'm in most evenings if
you want to collect from Shelford (about a mile from Addenbrooks as the crow flies)
Thanks Rusty. I may be sorted in that department now but I'll let you know if I need them. Thank you very much for your help. Talk to you
soon.
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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brynhamlet
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 07:23 PM |
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As far as can see the only part which should make a difference is the locknut which stops the ball-joint moving in the wishbone. My understanding is
as long as I file the corners of to a 2.5mm radius that's okay. Or am I wrong???
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iank
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 07:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by brynhamlet
As far as can see the only part which should make a difference is the locknut which stops the ball-joint moving in the wishbone. My understanding is
as long as I file the corners of to a 2.5mm radius that's okay. Or am I wrong???
Might work, but the locknut is a safety critical component so the inspector might view attacking it with a file it as a bad thing.
Though I have yet to see how adding a bit of plastic helps, since if the locknut hits someone they have a lot more to worry about a few micro-seconds
later when the rest of the suspension clatters into them.
Good luck with the retest Jon.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 08:26 PM |
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Jon,
Shame about the fail - but at least they're all relatively easy to fix. The leaking brake cylinder is just a straight replacement job, the top
balljoint is easily covered with split radiator hose & a couple of tie-wraps (watch where the tie-wrap joint sticks out).
The exhaust should also be quite easy - I'm sure some of the tips listed here will sort things out.
You should be on the road pretty soon!
cheers,
David
P.S. iank - the point of covering sharp edges is to protect people in minor accidents - they get bruises instead of bad cuts.
[Edited on 6/7/06 by David Jenkins]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 08:36 PM |
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Forgot the picture of my top balljoint...
 
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iank
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 10:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
...
P.S. iank - the point of covering sharp edges is to protect people in minor accidents - they get bruises instead of bad cuts.
...
I understand, and agree in general, but a locknut is surrounded by lots of heavy rods, not to mention the wheel. It would be a very strange accident
where it made any difference. To be honest sharp edged wing mirrors that seem to replace the safe ugly ones are far more likely to do a pedestrian an
injury IMO.
The rules are written to be easy to apply, in that they don't require much interpretation on behalf of the tester, rather than having to decide
what makes a real difference to safety with all the inconsistency that would bring.
It has to be like that, but it leaves plenty of situations which seem unnecessarily petty.
The fact that some testers have been reportedly suggesting you just need something that 'can fall off on the way home' speaks volumes.
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 6/7/06 at 11:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Forgot the picture of my top balljoint...
I did a similar thing David. Only I used pipe insulation and I was told that I should use something that a manufacturer would use...whatever that
means! So I've bought some of those SVA ball joint covers off Ebay which is what he suggested. No argument then is there?
I've fixed all the faults already....about 20 minor ones. I just need to borrow a can which I'll pick up on Saturday and fit some new
brake shoes. I was given the wrong ones by the shop when I got my wheel cylinders today, then it's retest time!
Talk to you later. Thanks everyone for the help.
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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