saigonij
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| posted on 12/10/04 at 01:56 PM |
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Velocity - Rear Diff bolt up
Hi, im new here and need advice.
im building a Velocity XT using the running gear from a J plate Sierra DOHC ( not using engine ).
We came to bolt up the diff and found a problem.
looking from the rear of the car towards the front... the left top mounting flang seems wrong. On our diff, the left hold mount is further away from
the centre than the right hand top mount, so on the car, the bolt flang needs to be further left.
Has anyone else found this? Is it a that i have a strange diff ( although i have looked at 3 diffs from Sierras and they all have the same mounting
difference )
help! thanks!
Ian
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ned
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| posted on 12/10/04 at 02:02 PM |
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I'm not entirely sure I unnderstand your problem, but can offer/ask the following:
Does the dif physically fit between the mounting plates? There are 2 (well actually 3) sizes of fod dif, 7" is common sierra though 7.5"
is on some cars + granada, + cosworth. (9" is ford motorsport i gather) The size is the diamter of the cwp but also correclates to the distance
across the top of the dif where the bolt/holes are if that makes sense.
Also ford sierra rear ends are so that the drive shafts are unequal lengths and the dif will sit slightly to one side and appear off centre; the input
from the prop will be central, but the driveshaft flanges lobsided.
Doe this help at all?
If not can you get a picture on here for us?
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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James
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| posted on 12/10/04 at 02:12 PM |
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On mine the mounting bolt holes are equi-distant from the centre of the flange.
The drive-shaft flanges are differently spaced but the mount holes definately aren't.
All the MKs I've seen are centrally mounted too.
HTH,
James
EDIT: See, I agree with Ned! 
[Edited on 12/10/04 by James]
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saigonij
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| posted on 12/10/04 at 02:13 PM |
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Hi,
cant get any pics at the moment, but ill try and explain better...
1) im not sure what size diff it is, but its the diff fitted to DOHC sierras.
2) the diff will fit between the bottom two mounts, but not the top two. the bottom two mounts, and the top right hand mount all bot up, the the top
left seems to be positioned in the wrong place...
if you look at this picure from the build manual..
http://www.luegosportscars.com/cars/velocity/build%20manual/section%201/pics/image020.jpg
you can see that the top two mounts are equi-distant from the centre point, and although the diff is lop-sided interms of drive shafts, the top
mounting points seem to be equi-distant from the midpoint.
this is not the case with our diff. the left top mount is further left..
i dont mind cutting the flange off and re-welding it, but wondered if anyone else has come across this, or have we got the wrong diff???
thanks for the help so far ned,
ian
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ned
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| posted on 12/10/04 at 02:19 PM |
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as james says, the dif bolt holes should be symetrical about hte centre of the dif and chassis, if this isn't the case it's most likely
the bracket has been welded in the wrong place, i'd suggest calling luego if you're that worried about it, otherwise I'd chop it off
and reposition. photo would be good to confirm before you do anything hasty though 
beware, I've got yellow skin
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SilverFox
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 03:06 AM |
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Ian,
There is a difference between certain Diffs and you are correct in your observation about the 1/2" wider (assymetrical) top bolt flange. I
believe the common fix is to cut off the additional or unwanted 1/2" - don't ask me how to achieve it with precision though.
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saigonij
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 08:14 AM |
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Yea!
not going mad then!!!
ok. our idea was to cut the flange off with a dremel ( very slow i know, but very accurate ) , bolt the diff up to the 3 correct flanges and then bolt
the cutt off one to the diff. Where ever it rests against the chassis, weld it on.
not sure if that will be ok though! :-)
Ian.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:04 AM |
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Don't bother with a Dremel, it will take hours and god knows how many cutting disks!
You can get very thin cutting disks for angle grinders (0.8mm) that will slice through that in no time flat. Even a hacksaw would be better IMO.
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saigonij
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 09:28 AM |
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are they those "plasma discs" i have seen advertised?
do you know where i can get them from, not sure B&Q will stock them, and as for Halfrauds.....
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James
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 11:19 AM |
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Gotta agree with Mike there.
Although if your chassis is powder coated then it might be worth avoiding the hacksaw option as I find you tend to scratch the surrounding area with
it.
HTH,
James
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 12:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by saigonij
are they those "plasma discs" i have seen advertised?
do you know where i can get them from, not sure B&Q will stock them, and as for Halfrauds.....
Those are the ones. I buy mine from a little tool shop in Plymouth, but I'm almost certain that Screwfix
sell them (currently offline), and Machine Mart definately do.
Beware that they will break much more easily than a standard cutting disk if you snag the disc whilst cutting. You will be surprised with how quickly
they cut though. I bought an angle grinder stand and use in in conjunction with these discs as a cut off tool for all the tubular steel I use.
To be honest, scratching the powder coating with a hacksaw probably isn't going to be too much of an issue as you are bound to burn off quite a
bit when you re-weld the bracket. At least this is in a place that will never be seen in normal use.
[Edited on 13/10/04 by MikeRJ]
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ned
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 12:50 PM |
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as an alternative, if the lug is 1/2" too far out, can you not pack it out with washers or a small bit of tube/block with a hole in as a spacer
and just bolt all the way through?
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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saigonij
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 04:18 PM |
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no,
the flange is about 1/2 inch too far in to the centre. it need to be cut off and posisitoned 1/2 inch to the left, further away from the diff.
i found those discs on MachineMart. cheap too. have to get some.
thanks for all the help.
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ned
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 04:25 PM |
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fair enough.
those thin discs are brilliant btw, should be able to keep it nice and neat.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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saigonij
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| posted on 13/10/04 at 06:06 PM |
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thanks to all .
:-)
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indykid
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:33 PM |
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this is the diff in the indy, if it helps
tom
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indykid
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:38 PM |
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try again
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indykid
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| posted on 14/10/04 at 03:42 PM |
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it's gotta work this time!
 
Rescued attachment 2004_0503stoe.jpg
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dblissett
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 07:55 PM |
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dohc diff
hello there i too have used the dohc diff from a sierra and yes you are not going mad i found that the drive flange was central to the bottom two
brackets but the top two brackets were off set to the left ( looking from the rear of the diff) by 20mm
i moved one bracket and made a spacer for the other side
hope this helps dave
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shaywez
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| posted on 15/10/04 at 08:18 PM |
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rear diff
I had exactly the same problem when i came across this with my XT. I used the diff from a 2 Ltr DOHC also, i got around it by bolting up the bottom
then used a rubber mallet to reshape the top left mount, believe it or not it will fit. It took a bit of fiddling though but no cutting, grinding
needed, see photo attached
Shaywez.JPG)
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saigonij
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| posted on 16/10/04 at 07:41 AM |
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glad im not going mad!
the diff from the DOHC looks bigger / meatier than the earlier ones, or is it just my imagination?
was there anything else that you had problems with during your build that would be good to know about?
thanks again to all that helped.
Ian
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.JPG)
