SJC
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 07:47 PM |
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Velocity XT Suspension settings
Hi
Just trying to get my set up correct so i can get self centering sorted for IVA.
I have the long arm on the top wishbone facing forwards, the top wishbone all the way back, bottom wishbone all the way back.
The position of the top mushroom i am unsure about, Also does this adjust the camber only or the caster aswell??
What position does it need to be in?
Finally:-
what camber figures and toe setting have you set yours too??
What tyre pressures are people setting too, I have 6J x 13 on front and 8j x 13 on the rear.
Thanks for your help and advice.
Stuart
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stevegough
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 08:16 PM |
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Description
I have a Luego Locost (fore - runner of the Velocity) - this pic shows the position of my mushrooms. You will find that even at the most
extreme setting, your Camber will only just go to zero - it really needs to go to -1 or 2 degrees, but there isn't enough adjustment with the
Sierra uprights, so just set them as near to neg camber as you can get (don't be tempted to leave out the locknut!). This equates to the
adjuster being fully screwed in as in the photo.
Take no notice of the arrowed bolt - this was fitted as one of the requirements of my tester after failing the IVA. (I haven't heard of anyone
else needing to do it).
[Edited on 12/6/11 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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SJC
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 08:21 PM |
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Thanks for your reply, i had trouble with self centering on the IVA and want to do everthing to get through next time.
Cheers
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stevegough
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 08:30 PM |
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To answer the other points - toe in - I originally set mine at about 4 to 5 degrees - and the car was hard work. After driving it for a week or two
(post IVA) I changed this to about 1.5 degrees toe - in which was much better.
The castor is pretty much set by the position of the welded brackets, wishbone lengths (long arm to front with top bone is correct) and can be
adjusted slightly by rotating the mushroom, but then you will start to lose the all-important camber.
Tyre pressures - depends mainly on the weight of the car - you look to be a CEC in that its a Zetec in your photos? - The weight will be similar to
mine - about 620 with a full tank ( no occupants) so about 18 psi seems to work well.
Good luck, Steve.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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SJC
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 09:45 PM |
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Thanks, i will check setting and see what i can get.
I have a duratec in it, weights 522kg (with out me and prob about half a tank of fuel...)
Forgot to ask did you drill and tap the ali boss when you put the small retaining bolt in? That was m plan?
Cheers
[Edited on 24/10/2006 by SJC]
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Chippy
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| posted on 12/6/11 at 09:59 PM |
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Just to clear something up, you cannot adjust caster with the inserts, it will always be the same wherever you turn it. You can however adjust the
camber by turning it. If you dont believe me, just look at it again, the top pivot will stay in the same place regardless. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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stevegough
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 04:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SJC
Thanks, i will check setting and see what i can get.
I have a duratec in it, weights 522kg (with out me and prob about half a tank of fuel...)
Forgot to ask did you drill and tap the ali boss when you put the small retaining bolt in? That was m plan?
Cheers
[Edited on 24/10/2006 by SJC]
No, I didn't - I simply put a nyloc on the bolt, but tapping the thread would probably have been easier - there wasn't much room inside
the mushroom!
quote:
Originally posted by ChippyJust to clear something up, you cannot adjust caster with the inserts, it will always be the same wherever
you turn it. You can however adjust the camber by turning it. If you dont believe me, just look at it again, the top pivot will stay in the same place
regardless. HTH Ray
Sorry,but I have to disagree with you, chippy - the top pivot is the bolt which goes into the top of the mushroom - the hole in the mushroom is off -
centre, so as the mushroom is rotated, the caster angle is moved back and forward - not a great deal, I'll admit, but the for-aft position can
be moved up to 2cms.
[Edited on 13/6/11 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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tomgregory2000
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 05:45 AM |
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Caster is NOT changed with the off centre mushroom
BUT
Trail is changed which affects the self centre issue
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whitestu
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 07:34 AM |
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Castor is measured by the angle of a line drawn from the centre of the top ball joint to the centre of the bottom ball joint.
As previously said this can´t be changed by moving the mushroom.
Stu
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SJC
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 08:48 AM |
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Some conflicting issues about adjustment, i am not sure so will take any advice.
I am just bothered about passing the IVA so I think i will give my self extra toe in so and a degree or two of camber. Hopefully this will help with
self centering.
from all the pictures i have seen people are putting the joint in the mushroom in the closest position to the inside of the wheel, so i think i will
keep it there and give it extra camber.
With regards to locking the mushroom in, i have nylocs on the bolts but the IVA tester want addition locking such as a roll pin through the cast
upright and in to the mushroom.
Once passed i can re-set to a better position for driving, shame is that what i currently set it to, the car drives nice.
cheers
stu
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
Castor is measured by the angle of a line drawn from the centre of the top ball joint to the centre of the bottom ball joint.
As previously said this can´t be changed by moving the mushroom.
Stu
I think that the correct way of thinking about it is that castor doesn't change but KPI does change and this change can have an effect on the
steering geometry.
I think also that this bag/can of worms has been greatly discussed in the past.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 04:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SJC
Hi
Just trying to get my set up correct so i can get self centering sorted for IVA.
the top wishbone all the way back, bottom wishbone all the way back.
Stuart
By using stainless washers as shims between the wishbone and the mounting bracket you can get some castor adjustment. IIRC the top ball joint should
be approx 22mm behind??( sorry, been traveling since early this morning) the lower ball joint so the top arm wants to go back as far as possible and
the lower wants to go forward . Will try to check later. Another point that I found made the self centering better is a self aligning bearing on the
steering column instead of the Sierra bush kit as the column mounting in the bulkhead panel may not be at right angles to the column and tends to
bind, it's been covered several times so might be worth doing a search? I have got camber and castor gauges and turntables in Cambridge if
thats any help.HTH Mel
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NeilP
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| posted on 13/6/11 at 08:23 PM |
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Top wishbone as far back as you can (use spacing washers).
Bottom wishbone as far forwards as you can (ditto).
Mushroom rotated so the hole faces forwards (this gives trailing hub which helps stability and self centering (a bit) but does not alter the castor or
KPI as noted as these are fixed by the ball joint positions which are fixed by the wishbone positions).
-0.5 deg of camber
1 deg of toe in
18-20 psi in your tyres
Bob's your unfortunately named Auntie...
EDIT: Simple Guide Linky
[Edited on 13/6/2011 by NeilP]
If you pay peanuts...
Mentale, yar? Yar, mentale!
Drive it like you stole it!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 14/6/11 at 07:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NeilP
Top wishbone as far back as you can (use spacing washers).
Bottom wishbone as far forwards as you can (ditto).
Mushroom rotated so the hole faces forwards (this gives trailing hub which helps stability and self centering (a bit) but does not alter the castor or
KPI as noted as these are fixed by the ball joint positions which are fixed by the wishbone positions).
-0.5 deg of camber
1 deg of toe in
18-20 psi in your tyres
Bob's your unfortunately named Auntie...
EDIT: Simple Guide Linky
[Edited on 13/6/2011 by NeilP]
Agreed.... BAsicaly how mine is set up.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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