blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:09 PM |
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sika flex curing
or i think sika bond is the one i actually got from B&Q
it cures in contact with moisture from the air, is that correct?
will it cure if its applied to something very wet?
my garage roof leaks very badly  the felt is lifting, and over the years its had all sorts of crap thrown at it to try and hold it back a bit long.
the roof will be replaced this year.
question is, if i sweep back any puddles, get it as dry as i can today, and squish most of a tube down, wil it cure enough to stop my car getting
wet?
obviously the wood underneath is wet, but i'll stick a dehumidifyer inside to help, and i gess the rest will dry over time (its been leaking on
and off for years) the wood will be replaced when the felt is done. its got a big dip (more like a step) in it where the puddle forms, so that needs
sorted too
whats the thoughts?
[Edited on 2/2/10 by blakep82]
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madrallysport
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:16 PM |
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blake this stuff works well and cures in wet conditions, - TEC7
TEC 7 linky
UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE is how far you take the wall with you.
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:18 PM |
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im sure it cures better in water as i once tried to keep an open tube fresh by putting it in a bucket full...
Craig
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:20 PM |
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cheers Davy, where would i get it from though? ideally i need to do it today. its the 'warmest' (sort of lol) day we've had in ages.
its about my best shot
Craig, thats not cool, but a good sign for me! so it still cured even when fully submerged? hmm, should work then. i've got nothing to lose
after all... lol
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:24 PM |
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Hi, heres what i did to stop my chassis getting wet
when i started building my chassis the condensation on the sheet roof dripped all over my shiny new metal so a quick locost fix was needed imediately
so i used some left over some plastic membrane from B&Q and stretched it between the relevent joists and using wooden blocks (left over from
chassis building) screwed it to the joists it catches the water and chassis stays dry
I know its a real bodge but it worked and was free
Ray
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 01:25 PM |
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cheers ray, but i really need to stop the water getting in, rather than catching if after it has. its rain water, rather than condensation
heres the puddle that causes it
 
Description
you can see a past attempt to pour fastglas resin over middle of it, which worked for about 2 years, but has lifted now
you don't want to see what inside is like
[Edited on 2/2/10 by blakep82]
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 02:13 PM |
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hmm, doesn't look promising.. lol
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Mr G
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 02:13 PM |
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B&Q did (hopefully still do) something like 'bitumen roofing tar' in a tube.
It sorted out the leak on my old dears garage roof, but going by the picture yours is a bit more serious 
Didn't cost that much either iirc.
EDIT: spelling
[Edited on 2/2/10 by Mr G]
Normal is getting dressed in clothes that you buy for work and driving through traffic in a
car that you are still paying for - in order to get to the job you need to pay for the clothes
and the car, and the house you leave vacant all day so you can afford to live in it.
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 02:19 PM |
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i got impatient and didn't let the felt dry off... tried pushing the sika in the gaps and it just stuck to my gloves... oops
heres inside
 
Description
[Edited on 2/2/10 by blakep82]
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 03:05 PM |
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if you can get it dry you can get pourable bitumen in a tub and stick a piece of felt on top if you cant get it dry then another thing is a tarp held
down with bricks itll stop the direct rain but not the water from run off may help to dry out so you can do a temp fix as above or you need a roofers
torch to carefully dry it once youve swept away the puddle
Ray
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 03:13 PM |
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i think this sikabond will hold out most of it. we tried that paint on bitumen a few years back. it just peeled off you can see the remains of it
in the first photo lol
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BenB
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 03:17 PM |
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Otherwise try
6 quid a pop and harmful to everything so must be good
Otherwise
£15
and a big 'old paintbrush
Personally I'd use the gunk in a tube until summer then strip it and do it properly. Although some people sneer at anything other than heat-gun
bitumen you can get self-adhesive bitumen rolls now which are blooming good.
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 03:27 PM |
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yeah, its only got to last a few more months til the good weathers here, or maybe a lot sooner if it doesn't get any better...
[Edited on 2/2/10 by blakep82]
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tomblyth
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 04:13 PM |
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dont put felt on when you replace it! use this
link
this is what we use ! Its a really good product , u2u me if you want more details of using it!
[Edited on 2/2/10 by tomblyth]
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 04:16 PM |
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looks interesting stuff^ was thinking about fibreglassisng
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BenB
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 06:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
looks interesting stuff^ was thinking about fibreglassisng
Trouble with fibreglassing presumably will be water getting in / freezing and setting up microfractures leading to eventual failure. Should last a
little while but can't see the advantage over adhesive bitumen. Even wickes sell it now.
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/2/10 at 06:36 PM |
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i mean fibreglassing the whole roof when its replaced. doing away with all the felt etc
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 3/2/10 at 11:51 AM |
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flexacryl (or something) is a paint on sealant, but has fibres in it and lasts really well. NOTHING like the bitumen stuff, but about £20 for 2 1/2
litres. Good value though in my experience.....
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/57518/Building/Building-Chemicals/Flexacryl-Roof-Repair-Compound-Black-1kg
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