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Author: Subject: Please help me sort this relay wiring once and for all!
speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
Please help me sort this relay wiring once and for all!

This is the very last piece of wiring left on the car.

As you all probably know by now, my master cylinder provides a 12v supply when the fluid level is ok rather than the normal providing a 12v supply when the level is low.

I have wired a 5 pin relay to switch the light on when the current is removed (level is low).
This is all fine except when the float moves back up again (current is re-applied), the light stays on so the relay isnt switching back and i cant work out why.

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rachaeljf

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
It sounds like you have it wired wrongly. You should have:
Ignition supplied 12V to terminal 30
Master cyl 12V to terminal 85
Earth to terminal 86
Warning light to terminal 87a

If you have different numbers, e.g. 56 and S on the terminals, you have a latching relay, which is no good to you.

Cheers R

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:08 PM Reply With Quote
This is how i have wired it:





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flibble

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
Think it'd be like this could be wrong quite easily though



[edit: beaten to it, damn my feeble drawing skills

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]

edit:picture flipped for easier comparison, couple of subtle differences ^^

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
So if it is wired right, why wont the light go off when the float is put back in the reservoir?





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rachaeljf

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:25 PM Reply With Quote
Speedy, you haven't wired it right! Your diagram is nothing like my description or flibble's diagram.
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chris mason

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:25 PM Reply With Quote
why use a relay when the cicuit probably has less than 1amp running through it

Bin the relay, stick ign 12v straight to the light and then run the earth lines too the m/c switch and handbrake switch. simple as that.

Chris

[Edited on 29/12/09 by chris mason]

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flibble

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Because then his light would be on all the time, he wants it on when the fluid is low (I think).

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rachaeljf
Speedy, you haven't wired it right! Your diagram is nothing like my description or flibble's diagram.


Oh yeah, mine is the other wqay round (doh)





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chris mason

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by flibble
Because then his light would be on all the time, he wants it on when the fluid is low (I think).

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]


no it wouldn't lol

the circuit is only complete when the fluid is low or the hand brake is on with the ign on.

Chris

[Edited on 29/12/09 by chris mason]

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
quote:
Originally posted by flibble
Because then his light would be on all the time, he wants it on when the fluid is low (I think).

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]


no it wouldn't lol

the circuit is only complete when the fluid is low or the hand brake is on with the ign on.

Chris



My stupid one works the other way round. The circuit is complete when the fluid is high.





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chris mason

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:35 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
quote:
Originally posted by flibble
Because then his light would be on all the time, he wants it on when the fluid is low (I think).

[Edited on 29-12-09 by flibble]


no it wouldn't lol

the circuit is only complete when the fluid is low or the hand brake is on with the ign on.

Chris



My stupid one works the other way round. The circuit is complete when the fluid is high.



Because you've over complicated the simplist wiring circuit on your car.

Why on earth you was told to fit a relay i've no idea,

surely your m/c is just a simple float switch (like every other one i've seen is) if so then do it the way i said and save yourself loads or wires and future problems.

Chris

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
I did it the way you said Chris before i put the relay in and the light was on when the float was in the reservoir and went out when i took it out. I know this is complicated (and it doesnt help that i am easily confused when it comes to wiring )





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rachaeljf

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:39 PM Reply With Quote
Speedy, is the other end of your warning light provided with 12V or an earth?

Your diagram suggests your warning light has 12V at the other end, rather than an earth as flibble and I assumed. If you do indeed have a "live" warning light, try connecting the m/cyl 12V where you currently have ign 12V connected at the relay. Delete the ign 12V supply to the relay as it isn't needed.

You may need to try the warning light wire on one or other of the lower horizontal terminals to get it to come on when desired.

Whichever way you wire the light, you shouldn't have both of those lower horizontal terminals (87 and 87a) connected to anything, only one or t'other.

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:41 PM Reply With Quote
The other side of the light is earthed atm. Will try that tomorrow.

Cheers





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chris mason

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
I did it the way you said Chris before i put the relay in and the light was on when the float was in the reservoir and went out when i took it out. I know this is complicated (and it doesnt help that i am easily confused when it comes to wiring )


Without seeing your float switch it's hard to say what's going on without making you sound daft

so if you got it working i'll leave it at that. but please tell me this isn't a universal m/c switch or a sierra one, other wise your doing something wrong

Chris

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rachaeljf

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:44 PM Reply With Quote
Ok, flibble's diagram is the one to use.

Cheers R

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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
I did it the way you said Chris before i put the relay in and the light was on when the float was in the reservoir and went out when i took it out. I know this is complicated (and it doesnt help that i am easily confused when it comes to wiring )


Without seeing your float switch it's hard to say what's going on without making you sound daft

so if you got it working i'll leave it at that. but please tell me this isn't a universal m/c switch or a sierra one, other wise your doing something wrong

Chris


Its a Jag one





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02GF74

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
As you all probably know by now, my master cylinder provides a 12v supply when the fluid level is ok rather than the normal providing a 12v supply when the level is low.




no it does not.

the master cylinder will have a float with s contact that will make/break a cricuit.

there should be 2 (or 3 on sierra master) contact on the cap.

if the master is full i.e. float is at its highest, is the circuit complete or not?

and to check, likewise if the float is at its lowest i.e. empty, is cuircuit complete or not?

disconnect all wires from the cap and check circuit with multimeter.

then we can come up with circuit for the correct scenario.






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speedyxjs

posted on 29/12/09 at 08:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
quote:
Originally posted by speedyxjs
As you all probably know by now, my master cylinder provides a 12v supply when the fluid level is ok rather than the normal providing a 12v supply when the level is low.




no it does not.

the master cylinder will have a float with s contact that will make/break a cricuit.

there should be 2 (or 3 on sierra master) contact on the cap.

if the master is full i.e. float is at its highest, is the circuit complete or not?

and to check, likewise if the float is at its lowest i.e. empty, is cuircuit complete or not?

disconnect all wires from the cap and check circuit with multimeter.

then we can come up with circuit for the correct scenario.


If the float is high, circuit is complete

If float is low (empty) circuit is incomplete

cheers





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MakeEverything

posted on 29/12/09 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH





Kindest Regards,
Richard.

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02GF74

posted on 29/12/09 at 10:10 PM Reply With Quote
ok; so open circuit when fluid is low.

most unfortunate - you will need more than just a lamp to make it work..... hence presumably why the mention of relays.

simplest would be to put the swtich across a 6 V lamp* so that the lamp is shorted out when closed.

it would need a resistor to limit the current, something like this:

* or use a LED. Rescued attachment lamp.jpg
Rescued attachment lamp.jpg







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speedyxjs

posted on 30/12/09 at 07:19 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers 02GF74, will try fibbles diagram but if that doesnt work, il do it that way





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splitrivet

posted on 30/12/09 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
How many Locosters does it take to fit a relay??
Fibbles diagram is spot on. 02GF what the hecks that.
Cheers,
Bob

[Edited on 30/12/09 by splitrivet]





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t16turbotone

posted on 30/12/09 at 11:22 AM Reply With Quote
yep.....fibbles diagram is spot on - apart from you need to fit a fuse, then if you make a mistake its just a case of changing blown fuse rather than more wiring damage
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