smart1275gt
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 08:41 AM |
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Despite what all you speed freaks think about this old engine, it's looking really good. Nearly got the engine mounts fabricated and ready with
the angle grinder to cut out the rear bulkhead. The MG Metro engine I'm using (as a pattern) will be removed again once it all runs. The next
step is to fit either an MG turbo engine or go down the Morspeed BMW K1100 head conversion route.
I'm developing a new Smart car project which is a transverse Mazda rotary engine set up in a totally new rear subframe. Got most of the Cad
drawings done, just need to buy an RX7 now!
Later... you lot!!
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iank
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 12:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart1275gt
...
I'm developing a new Smart car project which is a transverse Mazda rotary engine set up in a totally new rear subframe. Got most of the Cad
drawings done, just need to buy an RX7 now!
Later... you lot!!
What transverse gearbox will you be bolting the rotary onto? Cooling is likely to be the biggest problem with that plan BTW.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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smart1275gt
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 12:35 PM |
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Looking at a Ford MTX from a Mondeo. Can handle the torque, although an RS turbo iB5 would suffice with an LSD.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 01:56 PM |
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I would agree with most of the others that the A series is NOT the lump to use, but I also agree with you that neither is the SMART one, as yep they
are shite, mate's one blew its rings just like yours at 36,000 miles.
Have a serious look at carburettored bike engine route. The chain diff isn't a massive job if you can get turning work done cheaply. I know of a
chap with a busa turbo powered smart roadster and it really is a fun car (does have over 400hp though so likely to be fun! )
Basically you need a "normal" car diff, which you then enclose in a turned casing to keep the oil round the planet and side gears, then
replace the crownwheel with a large sprocket, and mount the whole thing in a pair of industrial plummer block type bearings. Use something like a
sierra diff and you can then push the drive stubs back into the side gears, circlip them back in and bolt on your cv joints.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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smart1275gt
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 03:43 PM |
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Give me £3k to throw at it and I will!
My budget is only £3k in total!!
The next car will be different, I mean faster and handle!
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 08:58 PM |
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Is a small Japanese engine not an option?
An 1.3 16V DOHC from Daihatsu, Nissan Suzuki or Toyota can be pick up for money less then an big bore A-series.
The twincam conversion is nice but that's another 1500-2000 pounds down the drain to get it working (conversion kit, ECU and block
modifications)
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smart1275gt
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| posted on 19/12/07 at 09:09 PM |
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I have asked myself the same question and have had these 120bhp+ engine options to consider:
Renault 5 GT Turbo
Ford Escort RS turbo
Suzuki swift 1.3 GTi
honda Civic 1.6 Vtec
Diahatsu Charade 1.0 GTTi
Rover K series 1.4/1.6/1.8VVC
Various bike engine options from 900-1400cc Turbo
My ultimate conversion is a three rotor RX7 turbo engine on a Ford MTX-75 gearbox. 300+bhp!!!
I'm gonna see how this engine turns out first and take it from there. Any engine is better than the standard Smart 54bhp three pot!! My MG
engine is 70bhp and manual transmission, which will shave 6 seconds off the 0-60 time to around 10 seconds).
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smart1275gt
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| posted on 30/12/07 at 09:11 PM |
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Santa brought me a Mig welder for crimbo, so I can get on with my fabrications! It's the engine mounts that have been holding me up so far, but
now I can get them made up and painted then start cutting out the rear floor pan for the new engine.
Happy New Year everyone!!
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