Board logo

Gear linkage issues... help please...
yellowcab - 27/1/13 at 06:58 PM

Show me your clutch mechanisms & gear setups... I currently have a grotty setup which looks nasty, and gear changes are hit & miss...

Would like to see what other people have done - whether you're using stick shift, or paddles... gear rod, or cables...

Thanks in advance, for any photos posted


Cheers, Olly

[Edited on 27/1/13 by yellowcab]


yellowcab - 27/1/13 at 07:13 PM

My current setup for those interested - ignore the grottiness of it all, its being cleaned up lol



The offending item which was always hit & miss








daniel mason - 27/1/13 at 07:14 PM

have a look in my photo archive in caterham busa project
im using sbd dry sump
sbd hydraulic clutch slave,
uprated clutch springs
and arch stick shift with built in flat shift and throttle blip


daniel mason - 27/1/13 at 07:17 PM

bottom row 3rd from right is sbd clutch slave


yellowcab - 27/1/13 at 07:24 PM

So your gear change is stay with a rod, but you've got a rocker to switch the throw?


daniel mason - 27/1/13 at 07:28 PM

arch who made the caterham chassis build these, adjustable rod with rocker.with a load cell built in to en for flatshifts. its very good quality.and i bought it second hand with all my other bits


40inches - 27/1/13 at 08:32 PM

Mine has a pivot on the engine cradle, and a rod straight back to the gear lever.
Shiny Gearlever
Shiny Gearlever
Brake line
Brake line


yellowcab - 28/1/13 at 08:40 AM

Thanks for the replies, its the route that concerned me with swapping to a cable, as my car is already built I wasn't sure how much access I needed...

Dannys pic here shows a high pivot point, and the fulcrum is beneath, mine is the opposite way around, with the fulcrum above the pivot...









So ultimately, I presume it has to pass vigorously to the passenger side then sweep back across to get the angle right, but obviously the curves need to be smooth?


sdh2903 - 28/1/13 at 09:04 AM

Get a paddle shift kit from Andy Bates, not cheap but very good. I wasn't convinced I needed a paddle shift but I'm glad I did. Both hands on the wheel in a BEC quite useful!


renetom - 28/1/13 at 09:25 AM

Hi
I think for you the best solution is
40 Inches method.

we have a paddle shift with linkage which works
well , you could also use paddles with a push pull
cable., we just preferred the direct linkage,which was suitable for our R1.

Paddle linkage 2
Paddle linkage 2


As for the clutch we used a Capri cable
(see pict) bike clutches are like an on & off switch having so little travel , extend the lever & this helps with more feel & less stalling.
R1 Clutch fitting
R1 Clutch fitting




good luck whatever you choose.
René

[Edited on 28/1/13 by renetom]

[Edited on 28/1/13 by renetom]


yellowcab - 28/1/13 at 04:37 PM

Guys - thanks for your time & effort replying, I shall certainly give it some thought as to paddles or not.

Something that was steering away, was with my current setup, I really had to 'bang' the gear level quite hard and quite fierce for it not to miss a gear, and I just felt that I couldn't possibly have enough strength in my fingers to create the gear change...

Maybe its just because my current setup just isn't very good, but that was the main reason I was put off by paddles


sdh2903 - 29/1/13 at 04:54 PM

Granted mine is an r1 not a busa, but I've had no issues whatsoever with gearchanges with the cable operated paddles at all. Yes they take a positive click but still very easy, even when going up the box without using the clutch. I was very sceptical of having paddles but now I wouldn't go any other way with a BEC.