Hey people

Just hoping someone can help me.

I bough myself a new camshaft on Ebay of all places for my pinto engine. I believe it’s a Burton BF30 Camshaft, I got the numbers off the camshaft itself today and they are CAMTEC ZC369.
I fitted the camshaft today and reset the clearances of the tappet at .010mm as I believe that is the correct setting? However on rotating the engine after setting one or two of the clearance the valve is hitting the piston so can’t rotated to engine fully.

So what am I don’t wrong people?? Am I right with the normal clearance of .010mm.


Rob

Have you got the timing right ?? you could be out henc piston being higher up the bore when valve opening. A high lift cam has a longer overlap rather than being higher so the valve is opening longer.

Id put my mone on the timing being out a tooth or two

Are you shaw your valve springs are not boxing, as last time i put a high cam in a pinto i had to machine a recess in head so springs sat lower also using double valve springs.

I found this on the Burton website 108 deg and .008/0.010" clearance. I dont know it the timing is correct. The bottom pulley have afew marks on it i have set it to the first and bigger mark. and i am not shore about tyhe camshaft? there are two nobbley bits on the camshaft which i have put facing upper most.

quote:

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Originally posted by robcool
I found this on the Burton website 108 deg and .008/0.010" clearance. I dont know it the timing is correct. The bottom pulley have afew marks on it i have set it to the first and bigger mark. and i am not shore about tyhe camshaft? there are two nobbley bits on the camshaft which i have put facing upper most.

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If its a BF30 you need to do the following.

Turn the cam to 108deg after TDC, so set to TDC then turn clockwise looking at the pulley by 108deg. For this you will need a timing disc.

Then set inlet valve #1 to full lift by using an indicator on the valve spring cap.

Then fit the belt as normal.

Your cam will then be timed in.

Normal valve clearances are inlet 0.2mm and exhaust 0.25mm same for the BF30.

David

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=67284

I also think mine had one of those cams in when it was Pinto powered
(I did try and find my posting where I asked if anyone had heard of them but I must have deleted it)

I set mine to std timing and clearances according to the Haynes and made more accurate by using a method I found from a Dave Walker article that was linked on here somewhere

Summary of which was, don't believe the markings on the cam pulley nor the crank pulley
Block the piston so it wont go past TDC (think extra long spark plug type doo dah)
print a timing wheel and stick to crank pulley, make a pointer

rock engine both ways and mark the pulley at both these points, exactly halfway is exactly TDC, set the timing wheel to TDC on your pointer
(I think I used a dial gauge to get this as accurate as I could as I didn't have an extra long spark plug)
It then involved a dial gauge on the valves to set the cam pulley up correctly (maybe minus the woodruff key if required...makng sure to locktite and torque stuff up properly after a final check

If I find the article I will repost it as it was pretty handy

I did use a vernier to get mine 100%...which was pretty bling, but I never got to play with swinging the timing to see if I could detect any differences
(I managed to loose/gain 10hp at peak by using switched ignition timing via megajolt which I failed to detect any differences between the two maps via my bum, but have a dyno printout to prove it did exhist)

Regards
Rob

[Edited on 17/4/10 by robocog]

cam timing 1

cam timing 2

cam timing 3

Regards
Rob

i think i am going to just put the standard one on and when i do decide to get it converted to unleaded i will fit the camshaft then. good weather is here and i want to get out in it now.

cheers