I know this is the opposite of the norm....but........i want to remove the battery isolator as its in a terrible place. I need time to work out a new
location but due to lack of room and may take a while, but i need to use the car in between.
So......the question is.... based on the diagram below...... to remove the swiitch and get the car running without it , am i right in saying that if i
1) join the wires for Ignition switch, Ignition coil and Main electrical feed
2) Remove the live wire from the battery to the kill switch
3) Run the alternator cable straight to the battery
4) Remove the resistor and wires
Does this sound about right?
Cheers N1
[Edited on 31/7/17 by number-1]
I'd say no.
I think you'd need to connect main feed direct to battery positive
Connect ignition direct to coil
Lose both the resistor wire and the main feed connection to W or 1
However that assumes your cut-off switch is wired in the standard way shown. However it might not be done that way splicing into a bike loom. For
instance it'd be simple to wire it in without the W/1 connection at all and just use the Z/2 into the bikes kill switch circuit... In fact
I'm not even sure if it's possible to wire an R1 as your diagram and if you could whether it'd work to kill a running engine.
[Edited on 31/7/17 by adithorp]
Hi mate. The isolator does kill the running engine. I think the guy before me has ammended the loom but im unsure as to where/hpw etc? I know hes got a USA loom to get rid of the immobiliser
Just connect the feed cables with a 10mm set screw. and heavily insulate it!
join the one called "Z or 2" on your diagram and leave "W or 1" disconnected but insulate the ends.
"W" is to put the alternator to earth and kill it's charge to stop the engine running when you kill the switch.
"Z" is the feed to the coil so needs joining up.
Why not leave it alone until you are ready to do the job? It's not causing any problems is it?
quote:
Originally posted by number-1
1) join the wires for Ignition switch, Ignition coil and Main electrical feed
2) Remove the live wire from the battery to the kill switch
3) Run the alternator cable straight to the battery
4) Remove the resistor and wires
Does this sound about right?
Sorry to bring up an old topic......
Ive managed to get out there today and have a look at the FIA battery cut off to see where i stand with getting rid.
On the back, there are the following....
Looking at the amazing sketch above.....am i right in saying i can do what gremlin1234 suggested in the post above so i can get rid of it?
having never seen the car, or even pictures
and as it's a modified loom, thats been hacked about..., your mileage may vary
but, this should be right for removing the isolator
Description
Cheers mate. Thats what i thought
I couldnt work out why the dotted line does what it does......as in why from starter relay/alternator to that pin and then from that pin to
nowhere?
[Edited on 27/2/18 by number-1]
the dotted line is to short the alternator via a resistor to batt neg, to STOP the alternator keeping the engine running after the switch has been
operated
edit clarity
&
actually the real reason for the dotted line is to make the little alien face smile ;-)
[Edited on 27/2/18 by gremlin1234]
edit again:
having thought about it overnight
more precisely its to give the alternator a load as the engine spins down after the battery&ignition is disconnected, to save sudden voltage
spikes
[Edited on 28/2/18 by gremlin1234]
I preferred the alien face 
Cheers for your help again mate. Ill get out there and give it a go today and see what happens 
Well......
I removed the isolater switch as per the above threads and the car starts fine. I started and stopped it a few times the other day, so all was looking
good......
Until today. I started it and went to turn it off a few minutes later and despite flicking the off switch on the dash, the engine didnt stop! I had to
disconnect the battery to get it to stop.
Ive checked the switch on the dash and it has continuity when in the on position and doesn't when off so appears to work
The plot thickens!!! Any suggestions?
do you have an electric (engine cooling) fan on the car?
Hi matey
Yes i do. Theres 2, 1 either side in the side pods.
When i flip the switch to open the electrics to the car, before i push the starter button, they come on. They are wired to come on at 1st stage
ignition if that makes sense?
again, having never seen the car or even pictures, could be entirely wrong,
but, they are probably giving enough power to the ignition circuit to stay running for a while. (at least as they spin down)
you will need them though a relay of some form
So could i try disconnecting the fans and see if it still does it?
quote:yep
Originally posted by number-1
So could i try disconnecting the fans and see if it still does it?
I just had a thought....
As its a BEC...could the 'Relay assembly' be dodgy? Its got the starter circuit cut off relay in it as well as the fuel pump relay.
The only reason i ask is, when i started it a few days ago it would start and turn off ok, until the other day when it wouldn't turn off!
Cheers folks