spray painting is not something I would have attempted but after watching some episodes of west coast customs they have made it look easy, how difficult is it to get reasonable results. From what I can gather preperation is 75% of the job.

I already have a decent compressor and a gazebo I can set up in my workshop as a spray booth, what would be a decent spray gun to buy that won’t break the bank.

shopping list;
PPE including proper spray painting respirator.
spray gun (suggestions please)
thinners for paint & cleaning
various grades of sandpaper

I’m wanting to paint my car (alu @ GRP parts) colour very similar to BMWs yas marina blue (RAL 5012)

do I have a go or leave it to the pros?

Preparation is actually more like 95%, however, if you then put on too much with one coat or add subsequent coats too quickly you will finish up with runs & sags which are very, very difficult (even for a pro) to get out once they are there without a total flatting back & starting again. Equally well if you don't put enough paint on or use too high a pressure, too thick paint mix, you will finish up with a dry, gritty finish which can be flatted back & polished up afterwards, but makes a LOT more work

The difference between a good gun finish & having runs/sags everywhere is quite a fine line & is dependant on a no. of things, not least temperature, watching a pro do it makes it look easy, having spent 20 years or so "back in the day" painting cars I can assure you however it's not easy & takes some getting used to

Whatever you're spraying you'll want an HVLP gun, Devilbiss make some very good ones, but not cheap, I just use a cheap HVLP that came either from my local paint supplier or from Ebay, if you're only doing one job or occasional jobs the difference to a Devilbiss is a lot less than the bloke holding it!

If painting at home it is only really realistic to use either cellulose or 2k, water based just takes too long to dry/needs too high a temperature. If using 2k bear in mind it is full of isocyanates, which personally I am very allergic to, even wearing a full respirator mask I used to take a couple of antihistamine tablets b4 I even mixed the paint up! Despite what others may tell you however, unless you have specific breathing issues 2k isn't going to do you any damage on a one off basis, it's a bit like the difference between smoking 10 fags on a one off basis & doing it every day for a lifetime (possibly a short lifetime!)

You will need an etching primer for any ali bits & in addition to the other bits you've mentioned something that chucks out substantial heat preferably with no naked flame, unless you are doing it on a hot summers day. Cellulose is generally easier & safer to use for an amateur, & much faster drying, but is very prone to reacting with any old paint/filler surfaces underneath it, & doesn't last as long, 2 k doesn't tend to react with old paint etc. but takes much longer to dry & therefore more difficult to keep dust & bug free, once it's on & had 48 hours to fully "go off" (very temp dependent) it is very hard & very durable

Most definitely do some practice on scrap panels etc first! Good luck

Long sanding block flexible type
Filter for compressor air inline
If your compressor is small buy another and run in parallel.
I use a devilbis gun but some of the £40 ones are as good. Obviously get a different gun for primer saves mega cleaning sprees.
Look at abranet sanding stuff. Better for primer sanding.

I watched every video on Google then went to college for £60 to learn for 10 weeks one night a week and they helped me do my car in the booth they had.

Turned out OK in my opinion


Djtiger2015


Djtiger20152

[Edited on 6/1/18 by jossey]

[Edited on 6/1/18 by jossey]

thanks guys, although I have the space i’m unable to heat it - i’m sure that was the same issue I faced when I looked at having a go at spray painting years ago (along with lack of patience). Thank you for all the info - think ill leave it to the experts.

what am I looking to pay to get something like a scuttle or nose cone painted in a solid colour (RAL 5012) and who do I approach? (car body repair, commercial painters, other?)

Might be cheaper to get it wrapped?

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Originally posted by russbost
Might be cheaper to get it wrapped?

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I keep trying this myself (just got some more to do a wing) but I always cock something up! The cost of proper spray work makes it too tempting to DIY.

quote:

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Originally posted by craigdiver

quote:

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Originally posted by russbost
Might be cheaper to get it wrapped?

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That was my original plan but a supposed wrapping expert said that the white GRP will look a different colour to the aluminium after being wrapped. I found a standard colour of vinyl wrapping very close to the colour I want so vinly itself would be relatively inexpensive.

Any comments on getting different colours due to the colour of material being wrapped?

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After painting several cars at home I now get it primered and wet block it down to 800 and if it looks right wet then take the Parts or car to a shop and have the colour put on in a booth with proper kit and extraction . If it’s properly ready for colour and you have the paint the cost of having it put on by a pro is well worth it . My last car is pretty much the same job as a seven and cost me £250 with me supplying the paint .

I have had some good results with fairly basic equipment. The biggest problem at this time of year is temperature and moisture in the air. I try to wait until the weather is warmer. I bought a cheap frame tent to use as a spray booth which I use on the garden. No really suitable for a whole car but great for panels and small items. I sprayed a wing for an Mx5, and the results were better than a local garage did for me. Experience counts for a lot but a skill that can be mastered.