[Edited on 18/11/07 by Dangle_kt]
Rescued attachment 101_0273.JPG
I will be happy to be corrected here... (fingers crossed) was getting ready for the replacement of the axle bearing (it got broken by previous owner)
and noticed this....
[Edited on 18/11/07 by Dangle_kt]
Rescued attachment 101_0273.JPG
so I looked at it from behind...
Rescued attachment 101_0274.JPG
and again
Rescued attachment 101_0275.JPG
so checked trailing arms thinking they might be bent....
Rescued attachment 101_0271.JPG
and the other one is fine too...
Rescued attachment 101_0272.JPG
Hmmmm, interesting prop angle - though not a disaster by any means.
Buuuuut..... (now this may just be the camera angle!) it looks like the chassis is not straight... which may explain the strange prop placement.
Could be wrong... I frequently am!
[Edited on 17/11/07 by scootz]
so I measured the distance from the side of the chassis to the side of the transmition tunnel from the left. 48 cm.
Then from the right 46cm.
is this a problem? I guess it is and am feeling mildly sick at the moment. as to fix it i THINK i would need to reweld one side of the entire
transmition tunnel which isn't an option. so my chassis is scrap i think.
[Edited on 17/11/07 by Dangle_kt]
[Edited on 17/11/07 by Dangle_kt]
I have a similar rear axle (mine came from a 2l capri) and the rear dif is not central to the locost chassi. I altered the dimensions slightly and
have a wider tunnel at the rear. It works fine and Mr SVA was quite happy.
I would be inclined to check that the axle is square in the chassis and that it lines up with the front wheels. A long straight edgedown either side
will show if the wheels are parrallel. You will also be able to measure how much further ouot the rear wheels are then the front. Should be the same
at each side.
If everything is parrallel and the measurements are the same at each side everything should be ok.
Does the rear diff / prop foul the transmission tunnel sides?
Gary
Looking at the pics again I would be a bit concerned about the routing of the brake pipes - especially the flexi hose which seems to be sandwiched
between the handbrake cables.
Gary
May be wrong but I think you will find the diff being offset to the right of the tunnel is fairly normal for a book chassis and live axle from the
picture it doesn't look a lot different from mine!
Dave.............
To slow again
[Edited on 17/11/07 by locoR1]
My car's live axle diff is slightly off-centre to the right as well, but the rear section of the tunnel on the driver's side is made a bit
wider to compensate.
I would think that as long as the rear hubs are equally positioned in distance from the centre line and the diff/propo are not going to foul anything,
you should be OK.
youll find most cwp are offset from the centreline
I am concerned that it wont have the clearence it needs.
And the drivers side is already 3cm narrower than the passenger side - and it still looks very close to me.
I wont be able to reduce the drivers side any more.
I did another pic.
"A" being 3cm wider than "B"
thanks for comments so far.
[Edited on 17/11/07 by Dangle_kt]
Rescued attachment chassis.jpg
Mine is off center a bit and one cabin side is larger than the other and thats how it should be, I would be more concered if the arrowed measurements
are not the same. Or if one of the drive shafts moves laterally. Suppose that depends if they are push in shafts or not, look for unequal gaps I
suppose where the drives shafts enter the diff??
Cheers
Rich
[Edited on 17/11/07 by RichardK]
In actual fact - I think you will find that the drivers side should be even narrower if you are following a book style build.
Cheers
Looking at the pictures, looking down at the rear axle links, they both seem to be in line with the chassis, and the gap apears equal both sides, so I
would say it will be fine. Check the wheel alignment, front to rear, (as previously mentioned), if thats OK then all will be well. Remember that
it's not a "Lemon", it's a "Locost", and no two are exactly the same. As for the propshaft, it won't hit the sides
of the tunnel in use, it only moves up and down, not side to side, . Stop worrying, get it completed, and on the road. Cheers, Ray
Seems like I may have been concerned for no reason.
Well thats better than under reacting and then being stuck with a problem after more cash has been invested!
Cheers for all your assistance everyone.
Oh and if you havn't met me - this might explain why I paniced:
DONT PANIC!!!
Yep - looks just like mine did.
Like said above, find the centre of the chassis and the middle between the wheels at the back - they should be the same.
Pat...
I put a kick in the drivers side at the end of the tunnel to give a bit more clearance. It is behind the seat so it doesn't affect the space in there. The prop diameter is less than the flange so as long as it doesn't hit the last upright you should be fine. English axles are different so you don't need an offset.
you seem to have slightly more space between o/s wheel and chassis than there is on the n/s. Since the trailing arms also seem to lean a bit that way, and the diff flange is quite far that way, you could lengthen your panard rod maybe 3mm to give a little more clearance. As said though, you do normally have a slant into the drivers bum area to clear it.
quote:
English axles are different so you don't need an offset.
If you look at the drawing fig 4.19 on page 56 of the second edition of the book you will see what is wrong. If you follow the book rear of the tunnel
should not be symmetrical, Just a simple cut and weld required but it will have to be jigged up before cutting to prevent distortion.
The rear axle brake pipework is a real mess it all needs changed.
Ditch the two flex hoses running to each wheel, Re position the "T" somewhere more sensible, run a 3/16" kunnifer pipe from each
wheel cylinder to the "T"
The flex hose from the chassis has the wrong type of fitting for connecting to the "T" two ways round this without getting a new flex hose
either
(1) Shorten the thread and use a copper washer between the hose and the "T".
(2) Weld a bracket on the axle for the hose similar to the original Escort fitting and run a short 3/16" kunnifer pipe from the "T" to
the flex hose.
Take extra care when making or ordering brake fittings as it would appear a odd mixture of imperial and metric fittings have been used.
Oh and the P clips are too big for the brake pipe - pad them with a bit of windscreen washer tube slit and slid over the brake pipe.
Me thinks it may be a Mk1 axle way to tell is by the wheel cylinders -- mk1 are nearly always single piston with manual brake adjusters.
Also random note you may or may not know, the propshaft should not run completely straight, it needs a bit of angle (around 3 degrees if I remember
correctly) to stop the bearings wearing out. The flanges do need to be parallel though (unlike my road car at the moment I suspect.. 
)
Thanks for your comment - is there a particular problem with rear axle brake config or is it just different to how yours is done?
I am all for making things better, but some rationale to the comments will help me decide if/when to do the changes and also be an assistance in
finding a suitable location.
Thanks in advance.
Also - are you saying the adjustments to the tunnel need to be made despite the fact the drivers side is already 3cm - 4cm narrower? If you could
clarify, as it will clear the tunnel, I used an edge this morning to check and if the prop is narrower then it will be fine I think.
All advise gratefully received.
Dangle
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If you look at the drawing fig 4.19 on page 56 of the second edition of the book you will see what is wrong. If you follow the book rear of the tunnel should not be symmetrical, Just a simple cut and weld required but it will have to be jigged up before cutting to prevent distortion.
The rear axle brake pipework is a real mess it all needs changed.
Ditch the two flex hoses running to each wheel, Re position the "T" somewhere more sensible, run a 3/16" kunnifer pipe from each wheel cylinder to the "T"
The flex hose from the chassis has the wrong type of fitting for connecting to the "T" two ways round this without getting a new flex hose either
(1) Shorten the thread and use a copper washer between the hose and the "T".
(2) Weld a bracket on the axle for the hose similar to the original Escort fitting and run a short 3/16" kunnifer pipe from the "T" to the flex hose.
Take extra care when making or ordering brake fittings as it would appear a odd mixture of imperial and metric fittings have been used.
well spotted!
I remembered after I had posted that the previous owner mentioned something to do with a spacer on one of the rear wheels, so I will have to meausre
from the brake backplate /trailing arms rather than the tyre/wheel.
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
you seem to have slightly more space between o/s wheel and chassis than there is on the n/s. Since the trailing arms also seem to lean a bit that way, and the diff flange is quite far that way, you could lengthen your panard rod maybe 3mm to give a little more clearance. As said though, you do normally have a slant into the drivers bum area to clear it.
Are the trailing arm brackets welded to the axle in the same place both sides, check from the backplate to the bracket. If you lengthen the Panhard rod it would push the axle further to the drivers side in a standard chassis wouldn't it? You are trying to achieve the opposite and has the spacer been put on there to equalise the distance between the chassis and the rim on both sides?
quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
Also random note you may or may not know, the propshaft should not run completely straight, it needs a bit of angle (around 3 degrees if I remember correctly) to stop the bearings wearing out. The flanges do need to be parallel though (unlike my road car at the moment I suspect..
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
If you lengthen the Panhard rod it would push the axle further to the drivers side in a standard chassis wouldn't it? You are trying to achieve the opposite and has the spacer been put on there to equalise the distance between the chassis and the rim on both sides?
