Board logo

OBP floor mount
goaty - 3/1/09 at 09:59 AM

Hi,
does anyone have an OBP floor mount pedal box running a cable clutch on a type 9. Just got a few questions to ask.

Just want to know if the clutch is ok to operate with this set up??

And can anyone help me out with some measurements? need to be sure it will fit in my footwell.
I really need to know how deep the pedalbox is but from the pedal face at its rest position to the very back of the mounting base. Is poss please.

Only ask as iu know it ownt fit in the bottom of my footwell, but i dont think it needs to go at the end anyway as i cant reach it. With this measurement i can be sure it will squeeze in.
I know it may be a pain but i hope someone could help please.
thanks


rusty nuts - 3/1/09 at 10:12 AM

I don't have an OBP pedal box but I do have an old Luego item in my car with a cable clutch which works fine . I did make up an outer cable stop to fit against the outer bulk head to get the cable to run at the angle I wanted (Big washer and a piece of thick walled pipe , 5minutes work) If no one is able to help with the OBP parts I may be able to help


goaty - 3/1/09 at 10:27 AM

been reading, isn;t the leugo one made by the same person.
is it the same size? 230mm wide?
thanks for the reply


goaty - 3/1/09 at 10:53 PM

is anyone able to tell me the depth from the pedal faces with the pedals in the rest position please???
thanks again


rusty nuts - 4/1/09 at 11:00 AM

Will try to measure but will be later today at the earliest.


goaty - 4/1/09 at 11:13 AM

that would be ace.
many thanks for helping out


goaty - 6/1/09 at 12:40 PM

someone on here must run OBP box, i have read loads about them on here.
if you can help, please do.
thanks


procomp - 6/1/09 at 03:11 PM

Hi

I have modified quite a few to get them to actualy work correctly in a car once installed. It's things like having to re machine the clutch pedal pivot so the cable runs through centrally and not at an angle which breaks the cable regularly.
Re bushing the pedal pivot bars which are made of mild steel. cutting the bias bar down in length so it dose not collide with the clutch pivot and restrict the movement to the inner master cylinder. And the final PITA modifying the pedal tops so that you can get your feet into the right position. Or alternatively modify the push rods on the master cyls to achieve simalar effect. And the joke one is the lightweight version that can be flexed by hand.

Must admit i have never measured one up dimensionally. Usually to busy modifying them to work or throwing them in the bin.

Not exactly helpful but thats my experiences with the product. And the worst of it is the car i am racing next year has one fitted by the previous owner.

Cheers Matt


Echidna - 6/1/09 at 04:30 PM

quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi
And the final PITA modifying the pedal tops so that you can get your feet into the right position. Or alternatively modify the push rods on the master cyls to achieve simalar effect.


This is a real problem when you try to suit a pedal to a particular application. That's why i have developed a new design for the pedal pads in my new design of pedalbox which will be ready soon.
The pad will not be welded to the main pedal so it can be made to be adjustable. As soon as the driver has reached to the desired position on the pedal pad, he/she can bolt it tightly to the main pedal or alternatively weld it to the pain pedal body if he/she is sure for the position or there is no other who will drive the car and needs a different position. I have attached a CAD image of the pedal pad. Rescued attachment pedalpad.jpg
Rescued attachment pedalpad.jpg


Echidna - 6/1/09 at 04:32 PM

And here is the final pedal-pad assembly. I think that this configuration will add a bit of versatility for the drivers as there will be no need to modify the MC rod or incline the pedal and bring it closer or further away from the firewall. Rescued attachment new pedal.jpg
Rescued attachment new pedal.jpg


procomp - 7/1/09 at 09:16 AM

Hi

Unless i am being a bit thick i am seeing no adjustment for forward and back movement on that pedal. Just a bolt on pad section with no adjustment.
Surly what you want is a screw adjustment to move the pedal pad forwards and back to suit with about 50mm of adjustment available.

And also a bit more quality to the finished product. There's weld spatter still evident on the pedals here and what is going on with the outer pivot tubes not being machined. Looks like they have been hacksawed off and left at that.


Image deleted by owner

Cheers Matt

[Edited on 7/1/09 by procomp]


Echidna - 7/1/09 at 05:49 PM

quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi

Unless i am being a bit thick i am seeing no adjustment for forward and back movement on that pedal. Just a bolt on pad section with no adjustment.
Surly what you want is a screw adjustment to move the pedal pad forwards and back to suit with about 50mm of adjustment available.

And also a bit more quality to the finished product. There's weld spatter still evident on the pedals here and what is going on with the outer pivot tubes not being machined. Looks like they have been hacksawed off and left at that.

Cheers Matt

[Edited on 7/1/09 by procomp]


The pedal pad shown in the CAD image can be rotated along the bolt axis so the pedal can be used effectively by anyone.
Those pedals can be made to fit any existing pedalbox. Let's say that i fit these pedals and i have to mount them in a particular angle so the MC rod reaches the clevis hole on the pedal. If you don't have an adjustable pedal pad (in rotation) you will probably end up with a pad curve that is not comfortable for your foot.

In my new pedalbox the pedals will also be adjustable forwards-backwards as the will be able to slide on their mounting positions.

About the quality of the pedals shown in the picture. Honestly, I cannot see any spatter on the pedals. I always grind off any remaining spatter on my pedals.
Abut the pivot tubes you are right but those pedals are from the first batch where i had cut them with a hacksaw. Now, in all my pedals the pivot tubes are machined on a lathe. Anyway, the bush is a bit longer that the pivot tube so there is no problem with any roughness for the pivot tube as it is not touching anything.

Thanks for your observations. I hope they will make me better in the long term.

[Edited on 7/1/09 by Echidna]


goaty - 8/1/09 at 09:31 PM

matt
thanks very much for the comments, not sure i would like one of them now.
cheers again