I guess to be expected, some I had a feeling (read knew*) I would fail on, others a bit of a surpriuse.

* now you're saying if I knew, why didn't ya fix ... well, I guess I hoped it would get through plus the test was there as a milestone to get work finished otherwise I'd be putting off doing stuff.

First drive of more than 100m and after about 3 miles, the front carb starts to back fire - it was still dark so the air filer was illuminating ike a chinese lantern ... but after about 3 or more miles it went away never to reoccur. on the way back I lost a bolt from the front carb - related? the menat it was idling at 2,000 but "limped" home the 5 or so miles. .... and both bolts on nthe front mudguard came loose ... but fun to drive

Started off by filling the tank from a petrol can, car on slight downward slope before the test bay. Drive it in, "what's this?" sez the geezer pointing to a pool of petrol!! turned out just enough petrol, maybe .5 teacup spilled out thru' the overflow once on the flat. Geewzer checks the tank/pipes and was happy to continue otherwise it would have been a very short test!

Nothing major/saftey critical; here is a summary so grab a coffee before reading so you remain awake ......

1. seat belt mounts too low
2. edeges - handbrake lever/gearknow
3. dash lower radius (edge can be felt)
4. front wheels outside of body plan (mudguards to curved at front)
5. rear ns tyre outside of body plan hmm... I knew this was prob. (looks like a set of narrower tyres required for retest)
6. edges on top wishbone, sterring arm mudguard styas
7. rear suspension arms fouling body work + nylocks not fully fiuiulled by bolt (not my fault this) - need to find shorter springs?
8. bit of loose harness from body to nose cone (cable tie to fix that!)
9. speedo out by a factor of 2! (so need a speedo)
10. my cones for the exhaust can did the job (will post photos) but no happy about the rubber strip which survived 30 miles but ....
11. the day before I remove the briaded hoses to fit the rubber ones and in doing so, they touch the body work

good points: brakes work properly and self-centres.
wind deflector is right on the limit of the height!

axle weight f: 276
.................. r: 282

sneaked a photo of me on the ramp

on the SVA ramp

[Edited on 6/9/06 by 02GF74]

Oh well not too much to fix for a certain pass next time! Well done for getting to SVA stage anyway

Caber

Oh well at least you have a list to do and no where you stand.
Good luck with the retest.
Steve.

Don't buy a new speedo. Just carefully lift off needle and refit 5 mph faster.

[Edited on 5/9/06 by Dusty]

Doesn't seem too bad except maybe the harness mounts - can you drop the seat/remove cushion, or have you got to somehow raise the mounts?

quote:

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Originally posted by Dusty
Don't buy a new speedo. Just carefully lift off needle and refit 5 mph faster.
[Edited on 5/9/06 by Dusty]

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quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
Doesn't seem too bad except maybe the harness mounts - can you drop the seat/remove cushion, or have you got to somehow raise the mounts?

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quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74

quote:

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Originally posted by Dusty
Don't buy a new speedo. Just carefully lift off needle and refit 5 mph faster.
[Edited on 5/9/06 by Dusty]

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.... but the speed stopped working on the drive back home

probably cable though; add 5mph isn;t going to cure a factor of 2 error?

I think a bike speedo is the easiest as I may need to get narrower tyres that will almoster certainly be different diameter.

quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
Doesn't seem too bad except maybe the harness mounts - can you drop the seat/remove cushion, or have you got to somehow raise the mounts?

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SVA man said cushion removal is a trick they are wise to; think I need about 30 mm raise - SVA man said he would be happy with a tube spacer on a longer bolt, hmmm..... but I have cunning plan to use box section, bolt it down then bolt seat belt mounting to top and block off open ends; will look at the tube method first though.

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I don't think the SVA man said it could be a 1mm wall type tube.....

Think about it, also by bending the tube the bolts needs to enlarge and thats where the bolt comes in power wise..

Tks

leighton buzzard test center?????
looks everso familiar

nice guys there

quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug
The tube method sounds like a good way of putting more stress on the bolt, if the tube is purely a spacer and not welded on - strange thing for an SVA guy to suggest! Still, I suppose if it is acceptable, you could do it and take them off afterwards?

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