I'm trying to start my engine for the first time before I mount it properly just in case and I can't get it to turn over. I have a 100 ohm resistor in the ignition and I get the neutral and oil lights and trip meter to light up on the clocks and the starter relay clicks when I apply power and there is power to the fuel pump I think as it seems to jerk but I can't get it to turn over at all. I have the side stand and clutch switch and I've depressed and switched them. Any ideas?
Edited to say that I've just seen some pictures on Ebay and all looks same so anyone any idea as to why I'm not getting any voltage at the starter terminal?

[Edited on 17/2/07 by mistergrumpy]

bypass it all and short the starter directly over a battery.

you are in neutral arent you?!

[Edited on 12/2/07 by JoelP]

Yeah I'm in neutral hence the light to back it up. I wanted to try this after reading one of your previous post but there's only an earth on the starter motor, where's the positive?

i earthed the block and touched the live onto the lead from the starter relay. I think its the live you're looking at, not the earth. Earth is via the block

[Edited on 12/2/07 by JoelP]

The positive is in the stater relay, as you engage the solenoid it earthes through the starter and turns the engine over.

Al.

Beat me to it Joel, and explained it better


Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Yeah I'm in neutral hence the light to back it up. I wanted to try this after reading one of your previous post but there's only an earth on the starter motor, where's the positive?

quote:

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Originally posted by Wadders
...and explained it better

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Right so I'll have to remove the starter relay then? One question, the starter relay has two hex head head screws as contacts and I'm only applying power to one as only this one has/came with a cable attached, should power be put to the other one as well or is this just for accessories? I'd go and try but I'm just off to bed, early rise tomorrow.

that could be the problem, though i cant work out why at this time after wine! Something about powering the wrong side of the relay so the power cuts out when it opens.... cast your net on the other side!

Yeah cheers matey, I'll give that a go tomorrow. Thanks lads, I may continue this tomorrow after work

The 'other one' goes to the starter motor.
i.e big power cable from battery to one side of relay. Big power cable out to starter on other side of relay. When you apply 12v to the relay coil it pulls in and joins the two big power cables. Effectively making one big power cable from battery positive to starter.
Nighty night
Al




i]Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Right so I'll have to remove the starter relay then? One question, the starter relay has two hex head head screws as contacts and I'm only applying power to one as only this one has/came with a cable attached, should power be put to the other one as well or is this just for accessories? I'd go and try but I'm just off to bed, early rise tomorrow.

The bolt on the starter is the positive, it earths through the casing. The start relay has a cable one side to the battery terminal and the other to the starter. When you press the start button it applies power to the relay and connects the two sides, I think it's a red/yellow wire that does this. If you connect to the other side of the relay the starter motor will turn continuously as there will be permanent power to it.

The re/yellow goes to the start switch and the black/yellow goes to the fuel pump.

[Edited on 12/2/07 by Peteff]
Rescued attachment srart relay.jpg

if you are using the a ZX9R wiring (C1) with the original fuel pump relay, and providing it is wirde correctly.

I believe that the fuel pump will only work during cranking and once the engine is running. It will not pump with the ignition on without the engine rotating.

hope this makes sence.

Cheers

Ian

quote:

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Originally posted by mackei23b
if you are using the a ZX9R wiring (C1) with the original fuel pump relay, and providing it is wirde correctly.

I believe that the fuel pump will only work during cranking and once the engine is running. It will not pump with the ignition on without the engine rotating.

hope this makes sence.

Cheers

Ian

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Yes yes and yes, but still no. It struck me last night when I got in bed that the big black cable on the starter was actually the +ve lead so I was dying all day to get home and give it a bash. Got it all ready, shorted the two contacts, starter relay clicked and still nowt and now the neutral lights gone out and starter relay won't click no more. Any further ideas

Just to be sure, have you directly shorted the starter out over a proven healthy battery without the current having to go any further than two leads and the starter, ie no relays etc?

If so, either engine is siezed or starter is lelled. I broke 2 starters on my engine, because they did not disengage when the engine was running. Its very easy to remove if you need to see, loads of crap fell out of mine when i took them apart. I also have a spare starter in the garage, off a zx9C

[Edited on 13/2/07 by JoelP]

Yeah I've had the starter off and looked in it, thats all fine and. I'm using jump leads and my car battery at the moment. I've tried applying it straight to the starter but that don't work. Its actually the oil light that won't come on now. I'm thinking that maybe its water on the loom shorting things now?

Right, I think I've got somewhere now I've had a bit of time to look properly. The starter relay clicks but won't turn the starter motor. I've took it off and when I put a multi meter on the starter motor side and power the relay, there's no voltage at it. Has anyone got a picture of the contacts on their relay without the bolts in because I've noticed that the battery side has a silver contact coming out from the inside of the relay which goes under the bolt head and the starter side doesn't. Dunno if mines snapped off or what. If that doesn't make sense I'll try and get a photo.