Hi Chaps,

The bottom wishbone in "The Book" looks just a tad scrappy IMHO, so how about this for a posible alternative.

The angled flange on the Cortina ball joint has to go, so out with the hacksaw and cut it off. Drill two more holes on the same rad as the remaining holes to replace the ones you have just cut off; (now back to four holes).
Make your wishbone plate with a large hole that allows the ball joint to be mounted from the underside, and match drill the four bolt holes. (see pickie)


What do you think? or

Paul G
Rescued attachment wishbone asy.s.jpg

You could always buy maxi BJs and modify you w/bones a bit- but they're a lot more expensive.

What I did was cut a groove with the angle grinder along the length of the fold each side and then bend it flat. I then welded along the line of the weld. On the underside of the BJ I then ground the weld line flat so it would mount properly.

HTH,

James

P.S. I did not do the welds all in one go as you'll melt the BJ!!!

I did each side in two/three welds and cooled it with water each time to try and stop it melting!

They look really good, my only reservation would be the size of the bolts, they look like M8 instead of M10 and seem to be closer to the balljoint than original which may weaken the ball plate.

I made mine to book with a little modification to the bottom plate to make it neater and stronger
Rescued attachment NSFSusp.jpg

The wishbones are stainless, in fact the whole chassis is stainless, so the bolts are high tensile stainless alloy, (M8).

Paul G

type 907:

quote:

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the bolts are high tensile stainless alloy, (M8)

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Paul, as an intending locost builder, perhaps accumulator of bits is more accurate at this point, I`ve pondered the very point you make & think it looks great. As far as I can work out the forces in the bottom wish bone are trying to pull the ball joint apart &/or trying to pull the bolts out, hence Rorty`s concern re bolt tensile strength. With the ball joint mounted underneath, apart from looking tidier the issue of bolt strength should be less important as they are primarily there just to locate the ball joint. I do though share Marks concern that by shortening the cortina ball joint bottom plate then you leave the whole of the joint unsupported by the bottom wishbone side arms & relying on a piece of 3mm plate to contain the considerable bending forces that must be present. While I`m keen to try something similar, I`d wish to leave the cortina ball joint alone, perhaps alter the shape of the end of the side arms so it will fit underneath, or use heavier plate for this. MK seem to use about 6mm in theirs now from pics I`ve seen, & Tiger Avon show the use of 10mm plate in their book. There are obvously weight penalties with both of these approaches.Sorry if that makes me sound like a wet blanket

[Edited on 23/12/03 by Steve Hnz]

Hi Steve

Thanks for your (& everyones) comments.
As the w/b's are stainless they are much
stronger than mild steel. I have also increased the thickness of the gusset to
4mm as are the brackets welded to the
chassis. The gusset meets the side tubes
on their centre line, not sat on top, which
allows a fillet weld both sides, generaly
accepted as being stronger than a lap
joint. You are not Steve, a wet blanket.

Paul G

Thanks Paul, I now feel reassured, a Good Festive season to you & all. Cheers, Steve H

Out of interest Paul, what dimension and grade of stainless tubimg are you using?

Hi Rorty
First things first.

A Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year to you & everyone else on this site.

Stainless grade & size used on the Sutol 7

Chassis 25x25x1.5 ERW HS 304


Top & bottom front W/B's & top rear
1/2" NB Sch10 Seamed Pipe 304 &
1" NB Sch80 (bored to 25mm typ.)

Bottom rear W/B
3/4" NB Sch10 (Main legs) 304
1/2" NB Sch10 (Brace) 304
1" NB Sch80 (Bush tube) 304

Paul G

type 907, not wanting to spoil any Christmas harmony, but your statement;

quote:

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As the w/b's are stainless they are much stronger than mild steel.

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