Ive managed to get a few hours garage time this weekend Before and after family lunch at mothers...

Ive been reading up on the front geometry, castor of wishbone brackets mainly .Decided id read enough (5 weeks ) and to start welding some bits together.

Q1) To get the angles I needed on Fu1+2 they sit inboard by about 50mm at the bottom .(see arrow...Will I have problems with steering rack clearance ?

Q2) To get the 6 deg neg castor I wanted the front brackets hang of way to much. I think to much to just to guset it .I had planned on putting a brace between L and F but this will give very little clearance for the shock.

Can any body send me a pic of steering rack installed in chassis with out body work ect and offer any sugestions.

pic 2

pic 3

Hi Warren,

In Pic 2 - you could either weld a tube across between the two brackets, or do what I did and lean the whole front "L" section back another 1".

All my brackets rest bang in the middle of a tube - bit of work now you are up to this stage now though.

Pat...

Hi Warren
I think you will have a problem with the steering column link to the rack fouling the FU tube. I moved mine inwards at the bottom, at the first attempt and found that the steering column needed to go through the middle of it and therefore had to adjust the position.
The castor problem looks the same as a book chassis , I ended up having to remake the top wishbones, however as previously stated if I was going to build another chassis I would add an extra inch of offset to the front tube assembly.
Your easiest option may be to put an extra horizontal tube in each side to support the brackets.
Paul.
Paul

I had similar issues, but as I could not get rid of the bump steer so shortened the rack by 4".

Loads of room now and no bump steer across the entire travel.

I would suggest you ignore the tube in the way in the first instance and check out the bump steer before cutting the chassis.

Regards Mark

Big_Wasa I like the jig set up I have been trying to figure something like this for mounting brackets and setting up wishbones a bit better than the locost wooden jig! Particularly as I am gas welding!

Caber

I have inset my FU tubes and there is very little clearance for the steering column. I would suggest you rig up your rack, (even if only temporarily) before going much further.

Mick

Looking at it, it looke like the steering shaft will want to go right through that bar.

Looks a bit odd.

If you measure the hole centres of the top two brackets (diagonally down and one at a time) down to the middle of the chassis line on the board, are they definately both the same? (Back one looks further in)

Pat...

Hi Warren,

Just a couple of points:

Your wishbones don't seem to have much off-set in them. Remember the book is incorrect in saying the off-set should be 11mm to get the 5.5°. For a 'Book' setup with Cortina uprights the off-set should be 22mm.

Also, ideally, Fu1/2 should be 16mm inboard of the top rail. I can't tell from your picture if this is the case. If they *are* 16mm inboard then that means the bottom can be more outboard (Fu1/2 can be more vertical) and therefore giving more clearance for the rack.

Hope that helps,

Cheers,
James

I've done that with my present effort. The fu tubes are very far in at the bottom there and as said will be in the way of your steering if you use a MkII Escort rack. Mine finish 1/4" in at the bottom and don't cause any problems.

Not necessarily what you want but you could weld another piece of 1" box to the side of your 'L' behind where you are mounting the brackets and block the ends of it. It would be more solid than a bit of gussetting. Cut it off at an angle and it wouldn't look so obvious. / sort of shape but vertical
Rescued attachment rackmount.jpg

Thanks guys and Pete for the pic.

James ive gone for 24mm offset which according to my sums should give me 6 deg neg castor.

Pat yep all 4 wishbones are parallel to the centreline of the chassis and same measurements both sides so should be symmetrical hope .I checked 20 or more times before welding ,and then again after.
Because of bringing the top bones back ive leaned the Fu tubes back to get good position for the brackets so no room to get Fu inboard at top so has to be at bottom. Shouldn’t be a problem ive had a few ideas: D

Thanks Mike ive ordered a new rack from rally design today so ill be able to see better when it’s sat in position.

If doing again id move the L assembly back 25 mm but im not going to move it now. Ill just work round it....


Part of the challenge me thinks

Been looking at posts on bracing and think I can kill 2 birds with one chunk of metal: D

If the rack allows enough room ill but a brace in as shown which will also support the bracket

Edit ...The racks ok its the sodding linkage in the way now .....doh

[Edited on 18/12/05 by big_wasa]

not sure how all this computer stuff works,any ideas on how my second engine is goping to drive the car

Use it for a spare after you wear the first one out .

quote:

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Originally posted by big_wasa
ive gone for 24mm offset which according to my sums should give me 6 deg neg castor.

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Not keen on that idea ! But thanks .

If I do another chassis I will make to book and alter the wishbones instead.