As above really - i'd like to see how others have done it - just to see if what I have in mind is in line with that!
Mines engraved, by Raw, who stupidly put a 'I' in it, which I have since changed to a 1.
I stamped mine. At IVA the tester said stamped is fine but their prefered method to see was a thin strip of metal with number stamped on, then fully welded onto chassis, weld all around it.
I've got two strips of 3m steel - roughly 15cm long - with the VIN etched into it 1mm deep - with letters about 12mm tall.
I'm thinking of welding one between the two cross members which will support the seat runners - and the other across the bottom chassis rails in
the engine bay - at the bulkhead end of the bay. So both of them would be fully welded, but at either end of the strip - rather than all the way
around.
Stanping direct into the chassis is fine but beware of denting the tube. Engraving avoids that risk as does stamping a separate strip and welding
that on.
After a few recent IVA fails it appears that if the VIN is on a welded on plate, it must now be seam welded all the way around; Welding just the ends
(as mine was for SVA) won't pass anymore.
It must also be on a main structural part of the chassis; Having it as a tag on the side of one member or across between 2 isn't acceptable.
I did a stamped strip and seam welded to the chassis.
Is it possible to ring up at IVA test centre and get feedback from actual testers on what they want to see?
I wouldn't interpret the current manual as requiring the VIN to be attached to a 'main structural' part of the chassis...
quote:
Originally posted by jps
Is it possible to ring up at IVA test centre and get feedback from actual testers on what they want to see?
I wouldn't interpret the current manual as requiring the VIN to be attached to a 'main structural' part of the chassis...
I think that "...is not easily removable..." is the bit they're interpreting the way I said. Now, I'm just going off reports from people who've failed IVA on this, but by all means, interpret it anyway you like.
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
I'm just going off reports from people who've failed IVA on this
I've emailed VOSA twice for clarifications on the manual, and they've been very helpful both times. Takes a few weeks to get the definitive answer but they at least keep you informed. Worth dropping them a line to get the official word...
quote:
Originally posted by The Black Flash
I've emailed VOSA twice for clarifications on the manual, and they've been very helpful both times. Takes a few weeks to get the definitive answer but they at least keep you informed. Worth dropping them a line to get the official word...
I can't quite get my head round a marking system that involves stamping a plate and welding it on.
If some unscrupulous "****" wants to change the I.D. of the car they just grind it off and weld on another.
Who will be able to tell it's been tampered with?
Might as well use a couple of pop rivets. ( shrug )
Paul G
I printed the VIN in Word, taped it to chassis, and engraved through the printing, using a cheapo Lidl battery engraver. I sprayed over with clear top
coat.
Description
[Edited on 20-8-13 by 40inches]
same as above..
Is there a specific size? Or just make it big enough to be readable?
Mark.
quote:
Originally posted by MsD
Is there a specific size? Or just make it big enough to be readable?
Mark.
I stamped my VIN on a bit of steel strip and then sikaflexed it to the chassis, if you leave a bead of adhesive around the outside and the paint over
it it will look as if it is neatly seam welded.I also have a riveted plate on the opposite side of the chassis .
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by The Black Flash
I've emailed VOSA twice for clarifications on the manual, and they've been very helpful both times. Takes a few weeks to get the definitive answer but they at least keep you informed. Worth dropping them a line to get the official word...
How do you contact them? I've been struggling to find contact details... Can't find a phone number or email address for the testing stations...?
quote:
Originally posted by paulf
I stamped my VIN on a bit of steel strip and then sikaflexed it to the chassis, if you leave a bead of adhesive around the outside and the paint over it it will look as if it is neatly seam welded.I also have a riveted plate on the opposite side of the chassis .
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by 907
I can't quite get my head round a marking system that involves stamping a plate and welding it on. If some unscrupulous "****" wants to change the I.D. of the car they just grind it off and weld on another.
Who will be able to tell it's been tampered with? Might as well use a couple of pop rivets. ( shrug )
Here's how I've done it in the end - etched onto a 3mm plate - then welded onto a bulkhead - seam welded all the way round.
Sorry about the image size!
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by paulf
I stamped my VIN on a bit of steel strip and then sikaflexed it to the chassis, if you leave a bead of adhesive around the outside and the paint over it it will look as if it is neatly seam welded.I also have a riveted plate on the opposite side of the chassis .
Paul
Why on earth would you risk a £90 retest just to avoid spending a few mins welding it on?
Does anybody have or is there a guideline on VIN numbers? Length/ how many numbers/letters?
Thanks, mark.
Its In the IVA manual.
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
A few minutes? Not all of us have welding facilities at home. If I have to weld this it will mean hiring a man to come and do or trailering the car somewhere.
How have people etched the VIN on to the plate? it looks far neater than if I did it by hand.
I stamped the number that's welded on and had the plate engraved. I just picked a place on ebay and drew it up in paint.