ditchlewis
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 06:47 PM |
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Electric Fuel Pump
I'm running a pinto 2.1 with twin 45's. I've got the old fashioned mechanical pump (new, like the engine). i think that something is
wrong with it.
the car has always felt like it is starved of fuel as it stutters untill the nuts are revved out of it and then after a few seconds it is back to
stuttering.
i have now run out of fuel twice: and the pump cannot pull the fuel through when i fill it up even after 20 mins of turning over. i have to
remove the top of one of the carbs and fill the float chamber. it will then run on two cylinders before picking up as the pump eventually pulled fuel
though.
i have decided to install an electric pump, what type should i be looking for? fuel flow rating?
will i have to have a cut off switch?
what do you all think? awaiting your knowledgable answers
ditch
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BenB
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 06:54 PM |
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You don't normally need an inertia cut-off switch when you're running carbs as the pressure is low. For EFi you normally have the inertia
switch.
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 07:02 PM |
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are the pumps easy to wire in?
is it better to put the pump near the tank or at the front near the carbs?
ditch
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tks
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 07:04 PM |
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mhhhh
i would install a device wich checks if the engine is turning over if it does it enables the pump, else it shuts it down!!!
you don't want a crash in wich the pump keeps puming when a hose splits up
saying that i'm an electronics gizmo and like the safety aspect of it.
production cars on the earlyer days had it to! beamers used there airflow flap type box meter for it. while cranking it will suck the flap and the
pump will start running.
in fact you cant test it pushing the flap away!!
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 07:09 PM |
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that what i thought, i did not want the pump to run if the engine has stopped. the inertia switch is what i would like.
ditch
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Mole
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 07:56 PM |
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You'd just wire it so it only gets a supply when the ignition is on. (cannot remember the name)
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 08:05 PM |
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Inertia switch is easy to wire in when wiring the pump, probably a fiver from a breakers. I would mount the pump at the rear so its pushing the fuel
rather than lifting. Some pumps like the old SU ones were either a push pump like the original Mini or lift pump like the Morris Minors. Would also
fit a pressure regulator as well. Got a Filter King for sale only done 3000 miles no longer needed due to change to injection.
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 08:10 PM |
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I also have a filter king, but i mounted it in the wrong location and it impeeded the fuel flow 
it's now back in the box but will be comming out when i fit the pump.
ditch
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02GF74
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 08:24 PM |
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pmps fall into 2 categories:
push type mounted low down near tank and
pull (suction) type mounted higher up near carbs
choose the one that is easier to fit.
both shoukd have filter before the inlet.
now pumps can opertae using a diaphram - cylindrical body or a piston, e.g. facet solid state (cube body).
locosted place is FSE (oogle it!)
the solid state is about 1/2 price and comes in 3 models according to pressuer nad fuel deliver. I have the middle model ans it fuels a 3.5 l V8
easily; I also have flter king pressure regulator - not entirely convincedthat is necessary for the SUs but there you go.
as for switch; you can wire it up to a lrelay sithced by the alternator charge lamp. only draw back is is that you need some override when crnaking
beforethe laternator is troiung out volts.
either you would use igntion starter switch or manual override but withthe latter, you would need to remember to turn it off afterwards.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 09:05 PM |
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Favorite is to wire a relay on the oil warning light, all you then do is take a wire straight from the starter solinode trigger wire directly to the
pump.
So when cranking its running, then once the oil light goes out the relay tales over.
Thsi also has the advantage that if something is going wrong in the engine the fuel will cut and stop you. This technique was used in more than one
production car, SD1 rover springs to mind.
Regards Mark
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 07:48 AM |
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many thanks lads
ditch
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907
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 09:40 AM |
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I have the Moggy 1000 type pump, bulkhead mounted, although it's an uprated electronic contacts version running my 45's.
There's something reassuring about the Brrrrrrrr noise it makes when the ignition is switched on as it primes the carbs.
Paul G
 
Rescued attachment Fuel-pump-s.jpg
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 09:54 AM |
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i've got a facet pump and i was thinking of just fitting the inertia switch. i never leave the ignition on when the engine is not running as i
want to protect the coil and the ignition management box.
another safety feature would be a electrical kill switch .
i remember a crash i had in a mini, there i was hanging upside down in the seat belt and the first thing i did was to kill the ignition.
how have you wired yours in? just a simple ingnition supply or with sensors and warning lights?
ditch
[Edited on 28/4/08 by ditchlewis]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 10:03 AM |
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I bought an inertia switch off ebay and wired it in so that it disconnected the ignition and fuel pump in a collision.
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 08:15 PM |
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great minds think alike david.
if it is too complex it will more than likely go wrong
ditch
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 08:24 PM |
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This is the one I used.
Inertia switch
This looks like the same seller - the pictures are identical - but I don't recognise this name.
Mine was in A1 condition, and worked as it should.
HTH,
David
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DavidW
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 08:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
This is the one I used.
Inertia switch
This looks like the same seller - the pictures are identical - but I don't recognise this name.
Mine was in A1 condition, and worked as it should.
HTH,
David
I bought one of these from this seller. No problems.
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