Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 10:35 AM |
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Camshaft
Hi all, i may have a 2.0 head on my 1.6 pinto, and i what to no if i have a 2.0 camshaft in it, is there any way to tell?
And would this explain the timming marks do not line up?
would this make any diffrence to the engine, such as power gain or not?
thanks
stuart
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 10:44 AM |
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As far as I'm aware they use the same head and cam, only the bore was different. In what way does the timing marks not line up?
I usually pop a metal rod down the spark plug hole to check that number 1 pistion is at the top, check that the rotor arm is pointing at number 1 on
the dizzy, turn the cam till both valves are closed and the dots all line up. Then put the belt on, once done I slowly rotate the engine back and
forwards and the dots still line up. Sure you have the right belt or pully?
[Edited on 2/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 10:50 AM |
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Picture below
 
Rescued attachment Car 010.jpg
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 10:50 AM |
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And another
 
Rescued attachment Car 011.jpg
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 10:54 AM |
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And another
 
Rescued attachment Car 012.jpg
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 11:02 AM |
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Thats a fair bit out there according to the marks.
With the original ford cams you could tell a 1.6 cam from a 2.0 cam. Basically between the lobes between 1 & 2 cylinder or 3 & 4 cylinder (i
can't remember which it was without looking at a camshaft) there should be a couple of little nipples. The 2.0 cam had both intact, the 1.6 cam
had one of the pair half ground away and I think the 1.3 had both ground away.
This method was ONLY applicable to the original Ford cams.
Hope this helps
PS I would check that the TCD mark is in the right place by the previous post method. Plugs out, long thin screw driver fell for TDC as you turn it
over by hand slowly and then see if the bottom mark lines up.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 11:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
As far as I'm aware they use the same head and cam, only the bore was different. In what way does the timing marks not line up?
[Edited on 2/4/08 by Mr Whippy]
Nope 1.6 head had smaller combustion chamber than 2.0. the early 1.6GT head had 2.0 cam and valves and was the quick and easy way to up the power
output of a 2.0 bottom end, fit the 1.6GT head on the 2.0 and the CR went up to about 11:1 but you still had the 2.0valves,cam and ports.
If you fit a 2.0 head on a 1.6 then you drop the compression ratio because the combustion chamber is bigger.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 11:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Thats a fair bit out there according to the marks.
With the original ford cams you could tell a 1.6 cam from a 2.0 cam. Basically between the lobes between 1 & 2 cylinder or 3 & 4 cylinder (i
can't remember which it was without looking at a camshaft) there should be a couple of little nipples. The 2.0 cam had both intact, the 1.6 cam
had one of the pair half ground away and I think the 1.3 had both ground away.
This method was ONLY applicable to the original Ford cams.
Hope this helps
PS I would check that the TCD mark is in the right place by the previous post method. Plugs out, long thin screw driver fell for TDC as you turn it
over by hand slowly and then see if the bottom mark lines up.
i used a long screwdriver in no1 and checked tdc was right.
and the engine is a 1.6 longe stroke engine, does this make any differnace?
stuart
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 11:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Stuart_B
quote:
Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Thats a fair bit out there according to the marks.
With the original ford cams you could tell a 1.6 cam from a 2.0 cam. Basically between the lobes between 1 & 2 cylinder or 3 & 4 cylinder (i
can't remember which it was without looking at a camshaft) there should be a couple of little nipples. The 2.0 cam had both intact, the 1.6 cam
had one of the pair half ground away and I think the 1.3 had both ground away.
This method was ONLY applicable to the original Ford cams.
Hope this helps
PS I would check that the TCD mark is in the right place by the previous post method. Plugs out, long thin screw driver fell for TDC as you turn it
over by hand slowly and then see if the bottom mark lines up.
i used a long screwdriver in no1 and checked tdc was right.
and the engine is a 1.6 longe stroke engine, does this make any differnace?
stuart
So your block would be the 1.6 Emax engine. This should have the same block as a 2.0 and use the same cambelt. The difference in the heads between 1.6
& 2.0 would purely be in the size of the combustion chamber in the head. All the front pulleys will be the same and interchangeable between the
two engines.
The timing mark alignment will be the same for either engine. So at a guess I would say that you bottom pulley is about 3 teeth (may be 4) out on the
belt.
Remove belt, align the timing marks on the tp and bottom pulleys, undo distributor cap and turn auxiliary drive pulley until it point to the mark on
the distributor body (number 1 cylinder electrode in the cap. Refit belt and tension. Turn engine over by hand a couple of times and check marks line
up. Refit distributor cap, start engine, warm up and re-time with timing light.
As said before, if it is the 2.0 head on a 1.6 then your compression ratio will be down to about 7.5:1 (ideal for putting a turbo on.)
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 12:46 PM |
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i have the 165 block, can that be bored out to a 2.0?
and what type trubo?
stuart
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 2/4/08 at 07:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Stuart_B
i have the 165 block, can that be bored out to a 2.0?
Even it could, it would never be worthwhile given the extreme cheapness of 2.0L engines.
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