blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 03:18 PM |
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ecotec to type 9 hydraulic clutch
i've got a 2 litre ecotec, and i'm ready to get me a bellhousing from yukspeed. now my chassis is already built for hydraulic clutch, but
i would rather spend the money on doing a hydraulic clutch rather than modify pedals and chassis for cable clutch
what do i need? is it possible to have a slave cylinder operate the clutch arm, so the pedals and chassis are unmodified? or do i need hydraulic
release bearings and stuff?
who else has already done this? any pics?
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r1_pete
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posted on 24/3/08 at 03:23 PM |
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I've just bought a wilwood 'pull' slave cylider to actuate the MT75 arm, will let you know how I get on..
One of these:
[Edited on 24/3/08 by r1_pete]
Rescued attachment wilwod.jpg
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blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 03:26 PM |
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yeah, just been looking at those. is your intention to have the operate the clutch fork which is normally cable opterated? because i think you get
hydraulic release bearings, which i guess is the normal way. but a cable hydraulic hybrid effort looks simpler! might have to take abart the hydraulic
clutch from my old gearbox to see how that works
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blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 03:27 PM |
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hmm, this is what i was thinking
rather than one of these
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Werner Van Loock
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posted on 24/3/08 at 03:48 PM |
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first picture is not going to work as the T9 has the pivot point at the end of the arm ie past the thrust bearing so needing a pull slave cylinder as
pete shows.
cleanest option though is the concentric hydraulic trust bearing you're whowing in picture 2.
Read more here
http://www.clubstylus.be
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blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 04:02 PM |
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ah, i see. i the picture was just demonstrating the slave operating the arm which is normally cable operated, rather that the hydraulic bearing.
i know the hydraulic bearing would be neater, but i think finding the right one could be difficult with the clutch being made of a mashup of different
manufactures. i've asked this before, but does anyone know what clutch parts i need. people tend to say, well, i think its this.
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r1_pete
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posted on 24/3/08 at 05:21 PM |
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Yes I'm going to use it to pull the standard arm.
Burtons do all the bits for a T9 concentric, but not the MT75, but the ££££'s add up.
As for the clutch, I've re-drilled the flywheel and used the clutch which matches the gearbox i.e. 2.0 DOHC siera in my case.
[Edited on 24/3/08 by r1_pete]
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blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 06:24 PM |
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so is a 'hydraulic nose' all i'd need? because it could be cheaper than a pulling slave cylinder and the arm, but i know these
things have a habit of not being so easy
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Werner Van Loock
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posted on 24/3/08 at 08:56 PM |
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hydraulic nose and probably a spacer, if you have a lathe, then that spacer can be made by yourself.
http://www.clubstylus.be
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jacko
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posted on 24/3/08 at 08:57 PM |
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Just a idea how about a old mini slave cylinder
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blakep82
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posted on 24/3/08 at 09:46 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Werner Van Loock
hydraulic nose and probably a spacer, if you have a lathe, then that spacer can be made by yourself.
oh yeah, and the spacer, i didn't know if the 'nose' was the actual slave cylinder you see. i don't have a lathe, but i do
know the guy at the engineering shop very well.
£79 for the 'hydraulic nose' and whatever for a spacer seems better than £79 for a wilwood slave cylinder (can't find one on
ebay...) and £35 for the arm, and whatever for the release bearing and all the fitting kids etc...
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NS Dev
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posted on 25/3/08 at 10:46 PM |
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I made my concentric release setup (type 9 to XE so similar to yours) for around £50.
saab 900 "classic" (eg. 1987 at your local motor factors) concentric slave cyl and std saab release bearing, fitted to machined ally spacer
made from scrap ally.
cr1
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
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NS Dev
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posted on 25/3/08 at 10:53 PM |
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more detail:
the spacer is fitted on top of the std cast iron gearbox "trumpet" section, with the tube machined off and then thinned down so it just
acts to retain the front bearing (saved machining the bearing retaining bit into the ally)
The ally bit is then machined to fit over a step machined into the cast iron bit so ti all stays concentric, then its held on with the same 4 bolts
that hold the cast iron trumpet on as std, just much longer ones, and the heads of them(they are capheads obviously) sit in counterbores in the
ally.
This allows the saab cylinder to sit wherever it likes as it will certainly interfere with one of the 4 fixing bolts that hold the spacer on.
There's a small recess machined into the front of the ally coinciding with a register on the back of the saab cylinder, again this all keeps it
concentric.
Three bolts tapped straight into the ally spacer then hold the cylinder on.
the cylinders are £40 ish new and the bearing a tenner or so.
[Edited on 25/3/08 by NS Dev]
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blakep82
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posted on 25/3/08 at 11:17 PM |
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^ good work! although i've not got a very good engineering brain only today did i understand how a clutch works
i'd be looking for a simple buy and bolt on solution. even if it does involve spending a bit more
did you menttion before i'd be needing a clutch plate from a 2.3 diesel sierra?
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NS Dev
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posted on 26/3/08 at 05:55 PM |
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that one will do the trick, combined with the std vauxhall cover (or it does on the XE anyway so guess the ecotec is the same)
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blakep82
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posted on 26/3/08 at 06:00 PM |
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i assume it's the same.. don't know really. I took my engine to be rebuilt last night so its not here to check, but i was asking him about
the clutch, he said as long as the clutch plate fits the spline on the gearbox and is roughly the same size as the vauxhall plate (it can be about
10mm bigger) then it should be fine. i'll take the plate to the motor factors tomorrow and see what we can do.
is the type 9 spline 1" x 23 splines?
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Davg
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posted on 26/3/08 at 08:08 PM |
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And you know a man who has a new 2.3 genuine ford clutch kit!
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blakep82
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posted on 26/3/08 at 08:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Davg
And you know a man who has a new 2.3 genuine ford clutch kit!
do you?!
i either didn't know you did, or if you told me, i have a crap memory (my vote's on my crap memory... )
how much would you be looking at?
also, if the diff flange is the same on the capri atlas axle as on the sierra, mihgt be interested in a prop shaft if you have one?
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Davg
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posted on 26/3/08 at 08:52 PM |
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Blake don't know if atlas & sierra flanges are the same or not, someone may confirm, alternative template or measure the pcd of the atlas
& check against the sierra. There might just be a 2 piece job in the cave. Clutch plate & cover £30. Cheers D
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NS Dev
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posted on 26/3/08 at 09:25 PM |
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atlas and sierra flanges are the same.
yep type 9 shaft is 1" 23 spline
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NS Dev
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posted on 26/3/08 at 09:27 PM |
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I have a 1 piece large diameter tube type 9 to atlas/sierra diff prop, done under 100 miles from new, £75 plus post, can confirm length but it was
approx mk2 escy length (was in rwd pug 205 which was slightly longer wheelbase than a mk 2 as i stretched it a tad)
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blakep82
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posted on 26/3/08 at 09:38 PM |
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^ cheers lads! i don't know the length of prop shaft i need yet, and won't know til i get my engine back really i'm only looking
for the ends really
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