Shamrock GS
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posted on 27/11/07 at 09:00 PM |
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Pinto cooling diagram - advice needed
Engine is still overheating so going back to basics. Here is a diagram of the various bits and bobs. Could someone give me a definitive guide to what
connects where.
I have looked at the options via search but all the other diagrams have extra pipes, tubes and heaters etc.
Cheers
Gary
Rescued attachment Pinto plumbing.JPG
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 27/11/07 at 09:38 PM |
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wouldn't I have been simpler to take a picture?
I'm assuming that E1 & C are connected? as that use to go through the heater matrix.
[Edited on 27/11/07 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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RichardK
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posted on 27/11/07 at 09:40 PM |
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Gary, I'm doing mine
A1 - D and Top rad breather using a tee piece.
A2 - E1 Water pump top
E2 Water pump bottom - Radiator bottom
Radiator top - Thermostat housing
Inlet manifold blocked
Seems ok but not road tested as not sva'd yet
Re Reading above seems a little confusing so here goes:
Expansion tank smaller top hose goes to the top of the thermostat and also to the top of the radiator for the breather using a tee piece imbetween so
in effect it's self bleeding as the radiator is the highest point of the system.
The bottom larger hose from the expansion tank goes to the water pump top.
The large bore pipe from the water pump goes to the bottom of the radiator.
The top large bore radiator hose goes back to the thermostat housing.
Everything else is blocked!
[Edited on 27/11/07 by RichardK]
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 27/11/07 at 09:52 PM |
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here's my Falcon's engine, you can see that even if you didn't have a heater you would still have to connect the pipes since the flow
from the head is meant to heat the manifold and stop the carb freezing. Also I doubt the engine was ever designed with that flow stopped, hence your
overheating...hope this helps?
[Edited on 27/11/07 by Mr Whippy]
Rescued attachment falcon.JPG
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 27/11/07 at 09:58 PM |
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If you still want an expansion tank connect it to the heater pipe using a T-piece so the water still flows. This is handy since the heater pipe does
not require the thermostat to open first.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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indykid
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posted on 27/11/07 at 10:51 PM |
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i've done it as richard K says.
compared to the water flow through the water jacket and the head to the thermostat housing, the flow through the heater will be miniscule.
i've blocked it off and not had any over heating problems, as have many with much higher tuned engines than mine. it also means your header tank
can feed straight into the suction side of the waterpump.
i'd wager it was more a convenient take off for the heater rather than a designed in thermodynamic requirement.
hth
tom
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indykid
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posted on 27/11/07 at 10:53 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
If you still want an expansion tank connect it to the heater pipe using a T-piece so the water still flows. This is handy since the heater pipe does
not require the thermostat to open first.
when i did this, i found it pumped water into the header tank, so pushing any air in it back into the system.
tom
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Dusty
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posted on 28/11/07 at 01:29 AM |
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D to Fi
E2 to F2 with A2 teed into this hose
C to E1
A1 to the little stub on the thermostat housing
Have you got the thermostat in the right way round. ie bellows/springs/wax cartridge sticking into the cylinder head.
How is air meant to bleed from the rad. All you have at the top is water in from the head.
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Shamrock GS
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posted on 28/11/07 at 09:29 AM |
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When the engine is running there is no flow (or very little) through the inlet manifold pipe - should there be? If I suck (!) I can draw coolant
through here but it takes a fair effort.
Does this suggest an airlock somewhere or something bunged up?
There is an overflow at the top of the rad - when it is connected up with the engine running it just purs out water so it has been blocked off.
There is a thermostatic cap on top of the expansion tank with an overflow
The rad is brand new from Lolocost so I assume is ok
G
[Edited on 28/11/07 by Shamrock GS]
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
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DarrenW
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posted on 28/11/07 at 10:44 AM |
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Ive not used heater matrix or header tank with mine and it cools great. Mk1 Micra rad. Ive aded some bonnet vents but i dont think they make that much
difference (vents above exhaust plus matching on other side of bonnet bulge, also some holes in nosecone underneath number plate).
I did have a slight issue early on with firt engine, i think a previous owner must have ran the car without antifreeze (or just poor maintenance) and
the block was sludged up. It tended to run on the hot side and blew water out of rad cap. I fitted a small bottle to rad cap outlet which controlled
any loss. I had to remove water jacket plug and flush it through with hose pipe - the sludge was past the plug so it did take some time with
screwdrivers and wire etc to poke through and get it to flush. Afterwards circulation was far better and i was able to remove air locks.
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James
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posted on 28/11/07 at 10:53 AM |
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Gary,
You may know this but it sounds like you think the pump pushes the water out. Actually, it sucks in and pushes it out into the engine.
This is how I did mine... I think it's the same as Bob's.
A2 to E1.
A1 to C (via choke)
D to F1
E2 to F2
Thermostat housing 'nipple' is blocked off. As is rad 'nipple'.
Hope that helps.
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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bob
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posted on 28/11/07 at 11:25 AM |
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Some pics of my old pinto set up are in the archive, air locks were a pain when i 1st had the engine running but eventually all was well.
Remember the thermostat being shut until the engine reaches 88 or 92 degs (cant remember) will be the reason why there is lack of flow to the rad, it
has been advised before to drill a small hole in the thermostat allowing water to circulate.
It took me a while to get my head around the flow of water water pump pulls the water in from bottom hose, this is a point where some people put a
T piece in to accept a return from the header tank.
I've done a search on here for a very good diagram but alas i cant find it, i'm sure someone will know which one and hopefully post it
up.
[Edited on 28/11/07 by bob]
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Shamrock GS
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posted on 28/11/07 at 08:07 PM |
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I think I have a slightly incorrect plumbing setup. I have the outlet from the manifold going to the top of the expansion bottle. Will change this to
a T piece from the top hose and see what happens.
Thanks
Gary
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
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jacko
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posted on 28/11/07 at 08:58 PM |
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Hi my pinto is like this
out inlet manifold to exp tank top --out exp tank bottom to water pump 5/8 bore
water pump to rad bottom
rad top to thermostat
the water tank top lets air in and out [ ford sierra tank yellow top ]
It's been like this for 3.5 years
Jacko
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Avoneer
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posted on 28/11/07 at 10:01 PM |
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How much are you overheating by?
Is it in standing traffic?
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Shamrock GS
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posted on 29/11/07 at 07:18 PM |
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Goes up to 100 + although that takes 10 or 15 miles. The fan (blowing the right way - have checked) cuts in at 80ish but doesn;t make a lot of
difference.
G
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
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bob
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posted on 29/11/07 at 07:51 PM |
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Have you got any pics of engine bay ?
Need to see height of rad or header againdy height of cylinder head and pipework, could be a simple change or a massive airlock.
Once my airlock was sorted plus the timing checked on my old pinto set up it was fine, did hit the 100+ in traffic but the fan pulled it down without
any probs.
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jacko
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posted on 30/11/07 at 08:18 PM |
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Is the thermostat opening / working ok ?
Jacko
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