bigandy
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| posted on 21/6/07 at 09:59 PM |
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4A-GE flywheel/Crank locking tool
Evening all.
Does anyone know where I might be able to buy/beg/steal a flywheel locking tool to suit a 4A-GE engine from a MK1 MR2?
I've had a quick look round the web with no luck as yet, so before I resort to getting one wire cut to suit at work, does anyone know where I
can buy one, or possibly borrow one for a couple of weeks?
If I do end up making one, I was planning to use some steel plate, with a profile cut in it to mate with the teeth on the ring gear on the flywheel.
The plate would locate on one of the gearbox locating dowels, and a bolt would hold it in place (through one of the gearbox mounting holes). Does
this sound about right? Is there anything to be aware of if locking the flywheel like this?
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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Fatgadget
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| posted on 21/6/07 at 10:16 PM |
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Why not utiliise a discarded valve bent through 90 degrees? Works on any engine with a ring gear.
[Edited on 21/6/07 by Fatgadget]
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rusty
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| posted on 22/6/07 at 12:04 PM |
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For what reason do you want to lock it, are you going to put a lot of load on the lock or is it just to hold it in position.
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bigandy
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| posted on 22/6/07 at 02:54 PM |
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I want to lock it to try and get the slighlty corroded crank pulley off the other end of the crankshaft. This is mainly to inspect the oil seals,
partially to enable me to machine the crank pulley to accept a totthed wheel plate type arrangment to go with the MEgasquirt ECU I'll be
using.
I also want to take the flywheel off to clean the engine up behind there too 
So, in terms of the load I'll be applying, it will be enough to get the crank pulley bolt and flywheel bolts undone, which appear to be
"rather tight" at the moment!
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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thomas4age
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| posted on 22/6/07 at 09:22 PM |
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Hey Andy,
Take a piece (a meter or so) of angle iron bar,
look at the crank pully, there should be 2 M8 metric tapped holes in it besides the center bolt.
drill t2 holes at this distance in the angle bar at one end, make sure the overhang is all the way over the crank pully.
now bolt your new tool to the cranck pully, make sure you don't damage the belt lip on the pully otherwise you need to find a new one.
Now take the enourmous lever you've created ion you hand and hold it firmly.
You can also make this tool but using a round pully size steel disc with a piece of bar welded on at the outside, then drill a 30mm hole in the center
of the disc so you can put a 22mm socket through it, makes getting the cranckpully bolt out a real easy thing.
do not use a normal (finger) pully puller on the 4age pully you'll damage the beltlip
You can also use the disc version as a good pully puller, just bolt it to the pully
put a long M8 bolt through the 30mm hole with a big washer at the pully side and an M8 nut on the pully side, hold the nut in position and turn the
bolt just as long as the pully drops off, if it's really stuck you may tap it gently with a nylon hammer while tuning the bolt and putting
tension on it.
good luck
grtz Thomas
[Edited on 22/6/07 by thomas4age]
Edited again but now with drawing
 
4age crank pully tools
[Edited on 22/6/07 by thomas4age]
[Edited on 22/6/07 by thomas4age]
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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bigandy
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| posted on 24/6/07 at 11:17 AM |
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Thomas, you are a legend!
I have never noticed the two M8 threaded holes on the crankpulley! Your diagram explains things nice and clearly too, so I think I'll crank
(pun intended!) up the welder next weekend
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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