Indymike
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 11:22 AM |
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|Where to put my zetec
I'm trying to figure out exactly where to position my 2.0 l blacktop zetec before drilling holes for my engine mounts and other things. What is
the best way to go about this. Do I just try to put the bellhousing is far back as possible without hitting the footwell? How much space should i
leave in between? Or should I be looking at other points. Does the engine need to be in a straight line from front to back? Does the top of the cam
cover need to be level? How high/low can the end of the gearbox (where the drive shaft connects) be inside the transmission tunnel?
As you can tell I don't have much of a clue so please help me out!!
Build manual? What build manual?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 11:55 AM |
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Drag it back as far as possible, block it in place then make the mounts etc to fit.
rgds Mark
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 12:10 PM |
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Usual trick is to fit the bellhousing, then mount the engine so that the back of the bellhousing is ~10mm from the firewall/tunnel chassis members.
Some people have enlarged the opening of the tunnel so that the engine & gearbox can go further back, but I've got big feet and
couldn't tolerate the loss of space!
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zilspeed
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 12:32 PM |
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In the Sylva Star and Leader, an unmodified type 9 gearlever fits right through the standard opening in the tunnel and pushes the engine waayyy back
in the car. It almost makes the decision for you.
Whatever, as far back as possible without being completely unmanageable is right IMHO.
Which is sort of tempting me into a zetec for my current one even though I have a complete BEC installation here.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 12:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
Which is sort of tempting me into a zetec for my current one even though I have a complete BEC installation here.
That's heresy here, isn't it? 
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zilspeed
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 12:53 PM |
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BEC - Soundtrack, revs, gearchange, bonkers pace.
Zetec - brisk enough, I've done it before in this chassis. Fits like a finger in an a**ehole :-)
Reverse gear.............................................
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coozer
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 05:21 PM |
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Pull it back as far as possible and move the front of the engine over to the passenger side. That way you offset the engine weight with you sitting
on the right rear side.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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lsdweb
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 06:34 PM |
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Like this !!
Wyn
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 07:13 PM |
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Here's ours, we're changing from X-Flow to Zetec. In comparison, our is much further forward than lsdweb's.
 
Zetec in 2
 
Zetec in 3
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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lsdweb
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| posted on 3/6/07 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
In comparison, our is much further forward than lsdweb's.
But, in fairness, you've probably got somewhere for your passenger to put his feet!
Wyn
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02GF74
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| posted on 4/6/07 at 01:59 PM |
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roadkill-uk - did you have to raise the bonnet - bulge or similar -when going to the zetec?
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 4/6/07 at 02:55 PM |
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As it is, the engine is very tight in there. the nosecone and bonnet fit on, but only just the nosecone goes just behind the 2 camshaft pulleys and
there is about 10mm of clearance.
We are going for bike carbs, so I imagine we're gonna need a big hole in the bonnet 
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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TangoMan
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 06:15 PM |
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One of the key considerations is cooling system.
If you move the engine right back you may need a water rail (an they are not cheap!!) whereas if you go forwards a bit you might be able to keep the
standard thermostat housing.
I would personally go as far back as is practical in keeping with the standard set-up and gearstick position.
Summer's here!!!!
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