FlansS14
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 01:53 PM |
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Mounting the engine SOLID
has anyone mounted there's solid..
or is it a really stupid idea....
Why didn't i just make it simple!
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 01:59 PM |
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lsdweb mounted his zetec solid in his seven, no major problems as i recall, it was a while back though
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mackei23b
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:00 PM |
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Hi there
I worked on a friends westfield he used to race. It had a 16v Vauxhall XE unit solid mounted with no issues.
Cheers
Ian
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Agriv8
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:06 PM |
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Mines solid ( and its a wobly V8 ) Wobles when sat still a bit but no problems on the move
Regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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Phil.J
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:11 PM |
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I'd mount it in solid every time. Always done it this way with my racecars over the years and it has never been an issue. It's not like
you are looking for a 'Rolls Royce' ride from your seven is it?
ATB
Phil
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smart51
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:25 PM |
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My bike engine is mounted solid. It seems just fine to me.
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macnab
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:26 PM |
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thats what I wanted to do but someone said it was a bad idea on a road car, even though the v6 is very smooth.
I want to feel the car!!
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Gunner1
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:48 PM |
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You can't argue with success, but I would have thought there would be two problems, welds cracking due to stress and bolts (and fillings)
falling off due to vibration.
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Mr Clive
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 02:50 PM |
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it should be kinder to you exhaust system and anything else that is connected to both the engine and the chassis (such as the loom and water pipes)
due to less movement between the two.
The only downside I can think of is an increase in vibration leading to more fastener failures. However if all fasteners are installed correctly, with
decent locking methods, that can be negated.
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macnab
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 03:01 PM |
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as for the welds its a good point but I was hoping that the engine itself would increase the rigidity of the car being bolted to it. Though the
chassis is lighter than the engine, well mine is, so I don't know it that would be an issue
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macnab
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 03:04 PM |
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as I mentioned previously my buggys engine is solid mounted and you really have no idea that it is, super smooth.
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GazzaP
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 03:35 PM |
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Where's the best place to get solid mtgs made then?
Regards
Gary
www.gmpmotorsport.co.uk
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 05:33 PM |
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My class 9 grasser ran solid mounted engine (the one in my avatar) and the vibration at certain revs is incredible, despite it being pronounced
"extremely smooth" on the rollers when previously flexibly mounted.
I mean vibrating enough to shear pop rivet heads off in some places every race, and crack the welds holding the screen mesh in place several times a
season.
I think it is all to do with resonance, and it depends on all sorts of dimensions, but to give some idea, my screen mesh (1" x 1" 12 sgw
weldmesh) which was secure enough that pulling and pushing the middle of it as hard as possible by hand yielded no more than 1mm movement, when at
6000 revs vibrated in and out by 25mm or so 
It makes your eyes itch too!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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nick205
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 06:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
My class 9 grasser ran solid mounted engine (the one in my avatar) and the vibration at certain revs is incredible, despite it being pronounced
"extremely smooth" on the rollers when previously flexibly mounted.
I mean vibrating enough to shear pop rivet heads off in some places every race, and crack the welds holding the screen mesh in place several times a
season.
I think it is all to do with resonance, and it depends on all sorts of dimensions, but to give some idea, my screen mesh (1" x 1" 12 sgw
weldmesh) which was secure enough that pulling and pushing the middle of it as hard as possible by hand yielded no more than 1mm movement, when at
6000 revs vibrated in and out by 25mm or so
It makes your eyes itch too!
...but did it improve speed or traction etc over having it flexibly mounted?
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FlansS14
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| posted on 20/2/07 at 07:28 PM |
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Thanks for the comments guys. I was gettin worried after a friend (who worked for Caterham) said it would crack the welds in no time)
not that it really matters... you can just weld them up and add more gussets 
Why didn't i just make it simple!
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 21/2/07 at 05:59 AM |
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Maybe use a stiffer non-rubber mounting material so there is at least some de-coupling of the engine vibrations from the chassis. May cut down on the
worst resonances.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/2/07 at 12:24 PM |
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The question I would have to ask is why would you want to solid mount the enigne in a road car? Is it because you engine moves too much on the
existsing mounts, or because of some idea that it would stiffen the chasis by doing so?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 21/2/07 at 01:37 PM |
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On my grasser I did it because space was so tight that there was no room for any engine movement in any direction.
Certainly wasn't done for performance reasons.
Also not when I say solid mounted, I mean as in bolted in directly metal to metal direct to the engine block and gearbox, no spacers plastic or
otherwise!
It also meant I could make the rear chassis section lighter as the engine was semi-stressed.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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les
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| posted on 22/2/07 at 11:24 PM |
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interesting thread,
I was looking at this as I have very little clearence, and wanted the ebgine as solid as possible-
its a bit wobbly on the rubber mounts!
any sva issues?
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 05:53 AM |
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Like above i have had several engines solid mounted in grass track chassis,
Pinto, BMC, RV8, Cosworth all cracked welds, when you put your foot down the engine tries its best too twist itself out of the chassis as well as turn
the rear wheels.
Currently got the engine in the 7 on metalastic suspension bush's with no cracked mounts.
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FlansS14
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 01:45 PM |
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What are metalastic suspension bush's
i take it the grass track car's get stick on the mounts from the engine "and" also from the jumps and bumps. ie up and down.
Why didn't i just make it simple!
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Liam
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 05:35 PM |
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My engine's mounted on peugeot suspension bushes. Doesn't move but wont shake the chassis to bits. Cant see the point in totally solid
mounting, you can stop it moving and still have vibration isolation. A small capacity beautifully engineered bike engine may be OK solid mounted, but
with a 300bhp (??) turboed car engine you might get the kind of issues NSdev is describing.
Liam
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tks
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 06:01 PM |
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2cents
i think its the latency issue wich have the heavy flywheels...
imagine you give full throttle in 2nd
then loses the throttle and pushes clutch..
when idle is reached you release the clutch...
becaus of the fact your flywheel hasn“t energy in it it takes time (and allot of force) to spin it all up to road speed..
its here where you try to spin the engine instead of the crank...
thats the case where the rubber mounts move the engine taking away time/energy
to spin it up...
i never would mount something wich suchs a heavy driveline solid...
also there are no TRT tubes etc and in a bec there are..
(in fact the original bike has crush blocks in the rear sprocket assembly)
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Simon
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 08:19 PM |
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When I was looking into engine mountings for my R V8, someone (I thought it was Rorty, but a quick look in his p/a makes me think it was someone else)
posted pics using the sa,e bushes as for suspension. Very neat, very strong and would absorb certain frequencies, even damp vibration
sufficiently.
ATB
Simon
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 08:31 PM |
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landrover engine mounts are almost solid, but do soak up any harmonics, they are £12 a pair and dead easy to fit, mine have done 2 years of use and
are as good as when they were new
 
Rescued attachment Column Shot.jpg
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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