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Author: Subject: Xflow lifting eyes??
ed_crouch

posted on 18/11/06 at 03:14 PM Reply With Quote
Xflow lifting eyes??

Do Xflows have lifting eyes attached to the head studs or summat?? Havent got any on mine, and cant find any around!

At the moment I have chains bolted to the engine mount brackets... Not ideal.

Ta.

Ed.





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rusty nuts

posted on 18/11/06 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
Don't remember ever seeing lifting eyes on a cross flow . Got the engine out of mine at the moment and just used the front and rear exhaust studs and the inlet manifold stud with my engine lifting beam
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andrews_45

posted on 18/11/06 at 04:54 PM Reply With Quote
this is what i did...



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UncleFista

posted on 18/11/06 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
I just use 2 short pieces of angle, drill 2 holes in each, then either bolt the pieces of angle to the head using inlet/exhaust studs. Or if the head is removed, just bolt it to the block using head bolts.

It's not let me down yet





Tony Bond / UncleFista

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Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
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thunderace

posted on 18/11/06 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
you can just lift it in and out just unbolt the gearbox i do it all the time,think its only around around 45kg max.
you can get lifting eyes i have seen them on ebay. Rescued attachment Copy of DSCF0796.JPG
Rescued attachment Copy of DSCF0796.JPG

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lotustwincam

posted on 18/11/06 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by thunderace
you can just lift it in and out just unbolt the gearbox i do it all the time,think its only around around 45kg max.


I would really, really, really like to see that!

Weight would be closer to 90kg. Where do you hold it by? How do you get your feet close enough?

Personally, we used something similar to Andrews_45, accept with the manifolds removed and the strap hooked around the engine mounts.

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steve m

posted on 18/11/06 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
It can be lifted in, all on its own with just one person, me, all 5'4" of me, and 11 stone, me not the engine!!

i have to be honest I will lift it out, without a head , alternater, dizzy engine mounts or any other wasted weight

but i have lifted it in in the reduced option, on several occasions

but now , i cant be bothered so this will be the last engine before the angle grinder is wielded and cut the bloody thing up

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MikeRJ

posted on 18/11/06 at 09:59 PM Reply With Quote
The K series is about 90kg IIRC and the xflow is most definately heavier than that. I can lift an xflow by myself, but I sure as hell woudn't want to be lifting it and out of an engine bay by myself.
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ed_crouch

posted on 18/11/06 at 10:11 PM Reply With Quote
I have a crane





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DIY Si

posted on 18/11/06 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
I'm thinking of getting a mate in to help me lift the bird engine out! Sod lifting a whole boat anchor out of an engine bay.





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DavidM

posted on 18/11/06 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
I lift mine in and out, although I take the carb off first.

Just make sure you bend your knees.

David





Proportion is Everything

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DIY Si

posted on 18/11/06 at 11:32 PM Reply With Quote
I'd do it myself, but I'm 6'3", so it's damn long way down to the engine bay for me!





“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War

My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/

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lotustwincam

posted on 19/11/06 at 05:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DavidM
I lift mine in and out, although I take the carb off first.

Just make sure you bend your knees.
David


Sorry for stirring it.

But how do you bend your knees and keep your back straight whilst stretching into an engine bay and lifting an engine with no worthwhile hand grips?

To make matters worse you would need to be standing in front of the engine in order to pull it forward to clear the input shaft. So either you must have legs like a giraffe to clear the bodywork/chassis, or you must be standing a good 2 feet away from the c of g of the engine.

Add to that all the hassle of trying to align the input shaft when putting the engine back in, not to mention engine mounts that don't always play ball, and I'd say that it would only be a very special person who could accomplish the task.

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Peteff

posted on 19/11/06 at 06:04 PM Reply With Quote
I remember doing it with a Viva HA when I was young and fairly fit. There was lots of room to stand in the engine bay with the bonnet removed and I had everything undone and I lifted it out onto the front and the wife balanced it while I climbed out to take it onto the floor when the old dear next door came out and said " Are you cleaning the car then?" My wife nearly toppled it back into the engine bay





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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DavidM

posted on 19/11/06 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
All it needs is a little application.

1) remove nosecone.
2) clamp a board to the underside of the chassis using suitable packing, such that it is against the underside of the sump.
3) unbolt engine from gearbox and engine mounts etc.
4) engine still supported by the board can now be slid forward off of the input shaft.
5) pull engine over to one side of the engine bay.
6) with knees bent and braced against top chassis rail grasp engine by water pump and under flywheel and hoik the bugger out. Leave the plugs in though.

Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Obviously in an ideal world I'd use an engine hoist, but I haven't got one, and it's not something you do everyday.

David

quote:
Originally posted by lotustwincam
quote:
Originally posted by DavidM
I lift mine in and out, although I take the carb off first.

Just make sure you bend your knees.
David


Sorry for stirring it.

But how do you bend your knees and keep your back straight whilst stretching into an engine bay and lifting an engine with no worthwhile hand grips?

To make matters worse you would need to be standing in front of the engine in order to pull it forward to clear the input shaft. So either you must have legs like a giraffe to clear the bodywork/chassis, or you must be standing a good 2 feet away from the c of g of the engine.

Add to that all the hassle of trying to align the input shaft when putting the engine back in, not to mention engine mounts that don't always play ball, and I'd say that it would only be a very special person who could accomplish the task.






Proportion is Everything

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