Cousin Cleotis
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| posted on 12/4/06 at 06:31 PM |
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Modifying sumps
when i get a bit of "air" or brake very hard with the engine revving 5k+ the oil pressure warning light comes on for a fraction of a
second.
how do i keep the oil in the sump? dry sumping is too expensinve for me.
whats best, mig, gas weld or brazing?
Thanks, Paul
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mookaloid
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| posted on 12/4/06 at 07:11 PM |
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What engine are you running?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 12/4/06 at 07:30 PM |
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Cut horizontal baffle with a folded edges that fit snugly inside the sump, poke a big hole through where the oil strainer and and a small one for the
dipstick and tack weld inside... Mig or Tig is best as Gas tends to heat everything up.
If the sump is ali then TIG
If it ends up distorting the sump then use some proper sealing goo instead of a gasket, Wurth do an excellent one, do not use ordinary silicon
Regards Mark
 
Rescued attachment sump4.jpg
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Cousin Cleotis
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| posted on 12/4/06 at 08:06 PM |
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thankyou, its not my locost, thats just a collection of parts. the car is a lada 1200. i will try a horizontal baffle.
Thanks, Paul
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02GF74
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| posted on 13/4/06 at 06:15 AM |
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Mark, what has happened to the frpotn of the sump - looks like someone has been re-shaped it with a hammer - why?
[img]http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=42749&pid=354815[/img]
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 13/4/06 at 08:53 AM |
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Similar to above except the 4AGE 20V sump already has the horizontal baffle plate I've just added the extra return lip around the edge of the
hole. There is also a factory windage plate which sits between the sump and engine block.
[img][/img]
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