peter030371
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 12:22 PM |
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Leaking Clutch Release Bearing
Recently I have fitted my Duratec into my Striker and for the first time got the clutch system filled with fluid. After pressing the pedal a couple of
times (which felt OK) I then noticed clutch fluid dripping slowly out of the bell housing. Not good, over the next week or two the clutch fluid
carried on leaking until the system was empty 
Just managed to get the engine out and was half expecting (possibly hoping!) that the clutch pipe wasn't done up properly but it was. All the
fluid had leaked out the bottom rear of the bearing unit. So took the unit off and found the back, around the pencil in the picture below, all wet.
 
Clutch bearing
My question is do these often go here? Is it a known failure point?
This bearing came with my kit and although it looks brand new it is very possibly a cheapy from ebay. Do they make 'cheap' versions of
these?
Going to have to order a new one but before I do I want to make sure I get a quality one this time  All I know is its spec'd for a V6 Mondeo
so any advice on a good source or do I poke around the web and pick one randomly and hope its OK?
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Dick
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 12:57 PM |
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Its important that the bearing throw is not to much if it travels to far forward then you will get a leak. Maybe something you want to check be for
you fit the new one. Have seen a few do this on converted type applications. If you contact rwd motorsport they maybe able to help you out. Once they
leak you have to replace you cant just push it back in again not sure why that is.
found this may help http://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/clutch-setting-hydraulic-clutch-release-bearing-speedway-motors
Not saying this is the answer but shows how important the travel is
[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]
[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]
[Edited on 15/1/17 by Dick]
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peter030371
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 01:32 PM |
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As its off the car now I can check the throw is right, I am 99.9% certain it is but as you say doesn't hurt to check.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 01:39 PM |
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I vaguely remember reading you need to space the concentric clutch cylinder from the gearbox to get the correct throw when using a type 9 box?
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peter030371
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 03:39 PM |
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With the bearing fitted to the bell housing and then bolting that to the engine on the floor without a gearbox in the way its a perfect fit. The
bearing is compressed right back to its minimum ready to be pushed out with the fluid. So I am 100% confident I don't need a spacer, in fact it
wouldn't fit with a spacer 
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ALLAN 14
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 06:15 PM |
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clutch release bearing
Hi all.
If you go to the Tilton web site and look at the instalation method for concentric clutches you will find that they recomend fitting a pedal stop
to prevent over advancing the clutch slave cylinder.
A simple bolt with the head against the pedal and fitted with a lock nut will sufice, you simply fit as described and adjust to get a clutch release
plus a
small amount to allow for bedding in lock up the nut and that will prevent over extension of the cylinder.
Another thing to check is the master cvlinder the correct size to match the cylinder, was it bought as a set?
If you have the engine out you can check the operation before you reinstal.
Best of luk hope this helps.
Allan
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peter030371
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| posted on 15/1/17 at 10:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ALLAN 14
Hi all.
If you go to the Tilton web site and look at the instalation method for concentric clutches you will find that they recomend fitting a pedal stop
to prevent over advancing the clutch slave cylinder.
A simple bolt with the head against the pedal and fitted with a lock nut will sufice, you simply fit as described and adjust to get a clutch release
plus a
small amount to allow for bedding in lock up the nut and that will prevent over extension of the cylinder.
Another thing to check is the master cvlinder the correct size to match the cylinder, was it bought as a set?
If you have the engine out you can check the operation before you reinstal.
Best of luk hope this helps.
Allan
How do I check with the engine out? The bearing is sprung loaded in the fully out position and only fitting the engine to the bell housing pushes it
back in....then I can't see anything?!?!
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ALLAN 14
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| posted on 16/1/17 at 12:03 AM |
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clutch release bearing
Hi.
If you have the engine out,Fit the gearbox onto the engine and rig up a temp pipe,
Then put box into gear and press pedal and turn shaft until you get a clutch release condition
set the clutch stop a little lower to allow for wear, Always best if you make the stop screw easy to get to
if the cylinders are matched then it should be a small movement to release the clutch.
If you can't rig it up out of the car then you can only set it up when all put together.
I think that the master cyl and slave are matched on production cars so that you cannot over extend the slave,
Maybe wrong but they seem to be strange master cylinders giving just enough oil on one stroke to clear the clutch.
Hope that helps a bit.
Allan
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907
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| posted on 16/1/17 at 06:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by peter030371
How do I check with the engine out? The bearing is sprung loaded in the fully out position and only fitting the engine to the bell housing pushes it
back in....then I can't see anything?!?!
Assuming engine is split from the bell housing and clutch is bolted to the flywheel:-
Place a straight edge across the clutch fingers, ( may need to be stepped to miss pressure plate shape ) and measure
back to the engine where the bell housing bolts on.
Place a straight edge across the bell housing flange, push the clutch concentric unit back and measure from the straight edge
to the concentric unit bearing face.
From this you should be able to work out where everything is located when the bell housing is bolted to the engine.
HTH
Paul G
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ian locostzx9rc2
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| posted on 16/1/17 at 07:07 AM |
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I'm sure I have seen this topic on here many times and I'm sure you have to fit a spacer .
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peter030371
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| posted on 16/1/17 at 08:53 AM |
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Thanks for all the ideas so far
I am certain I don't need a spacer. If I fitted a spaced then the bell housing would not bolt up fully to the engine (checked that last night)
without pressing down on the clutch fingers by the same amount as the spacer. Also the rigid bleed pipe that comes with the bearing lines up perfectly
with the hole in the bell housing and with a spacer simply would not.
Reading various sites retro ford suggest that the bearing I have used on a Duratec must be used with a 5/8" (0.625" master cylinder and I
currently have 0.75. But how can they say that without knowing the clutch pedal ratio? I will try and get hold of them today to find out.
I don't yet have a pedal stop (but had always planed to fit one) and whilst happily pressing the pedal up and down a few times during and after
bleeding could I have damaged the bearing?
I have been told that my bell housing is a Rally Design one so I will try and get hold of them today and see if they can offer any further advice.
Any other ideas then keep them coming, it helps the old grey matter working through the issue 
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peter030371
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| posted on 17/1/17 at 08:43 AM |
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Final opinion from Retro Ford is that my master cylinder is too big and has 'blown the seals' which can't be undone. £120 later for
a new bearing and 0.625 master cylinder = lesson learnt.
Also learnt (again) that this kit which 'just needs an ECU, some gauges and assembling' needed a whole lot more and some of what it came
with was just totally unsuitable for the job 
Will I be ready in time for Wales in late May......gulp time is flying by and I still have LOTS to do
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