mikeb
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 01:48 PM |
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Fuel Tank Sender Fittings
I need to sort out my fuel tank soon.
Currently its only has a filler neck, and out and breather.
Hence I need to somehow mount a sender, I'd prefer not to have to take it out to get it ali welded, so what are the options for fitting a
sender, its not thick enough to drill and tap.
[Edited on 15/9/14 by mikeb]
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whitestu
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 02:13 PM |
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Could you use rivnits?
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CosKev3
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 03:13 PM |
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Will need to come out really to clean out the crap from cutting/drilling the holes for sender surely?
If you do take it out and are using a VDO sender Merlin Motorsport do some nice alloy fixing rings to weld to the tank 
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kingster996
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 03:18 PM |
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The older vdo senders fit without any welding , they have a ring with threaded holes that fits inside the tank. Awkward as he'll to fit, but
works.
I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure
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jossey
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 03:42 PM |
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Not easy to solve without taking out...
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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whitestu
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 03:51 PM |
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Not sure if it would work with the gauge you plan to use but the standar Sierra sender is a twist fit into three tabs cut in the tank. I used this
with my acewell and it works fine - I just cut the hole in the tank to match the Sierra one.
You would still have difficulty cutitng the tank without getting loads of filings in there though.
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Smoking Frog
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 06:34 PM |
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Here's how I mounted mine, would recommend using a "C" plate with rivnuts rather than rivnuts in the actual tank. No welding and
sealed well with no leaks once gasket and top plate fitted.
 
Fuel Sender
But like others have said you really need to remove the tank to clean it out after.
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Chris_Xtreme
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 07:33 PM |
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the VDO Dip-Pipe Fuel Level Sensor can go in using a c clamp and no extra bolt holes if i remember correctly from when I used one. I guess as long as
the hole you have is already an appropriate size.
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 15/9/14 at 08:49 PM |
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I had the same problem and ended up drilling 6 holes for bolts around the sender hole in the tank (I held a small cap under each hole whilst I was
drilling it to catch the swarf). I then put cap screws in each hole from the inside of the tank (i.e. thread pointing up) and glued them in place
using superglue with powder (Q-bond). I then inserted the sender over the threads and put the nuts on - normal nuts, not nyloc as I didn't want
to risk having to use too much torque in case the glue came away.
Its a bit fiddly and you need to be careful not to drop anything into the tank through the sender, but as long as its only a couple of little bits,
you can vacuum it out.
Still secure after 200 miles of driving.
Having said all that, at the time, I didn't know that you could get c-plates with threaded holes!
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