johnH20
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 06:33 PM |
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Ford ECU - help please.
I thought the great day had arrived, had wired up my engine compartment loom and ECU as advised by Blackfingernail and others , even got a can of fuel
to put in it, Turned on the ignition - deffening hush! Not entirely surprised by this given my deficit in the electrics department.
Engine is a Ford Racing Puma. I have the PATS airiel/module and key taped together. Loom is 1998 according to the build label. I have a 104 pin
connector on the loom which mates with my ECU ( TAPE). After much faffing about I discovered I have as sort of hybrid loom. Pre 199 !/2 the
connecters C2 and C3 in the central electric box were 16 pin, after that 20 pin - although they both fit! I have 20 pin plugs wired as Black
fingernail which actually match the colour coding of the wires on my PATS transponder. First action is to get some 16 pin plugs for C2 and C3. After
that who Knows. HELP PLEASE!
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tims31
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 07:07 PM |
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Not sure if big_wasa is the font of all knowledge on Puma engines but he certainly knows about zetec ecus. Send him a U2U he may be able help you
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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Madinventions
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| posted on 14/5/14 at 11:27 PM |
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There are a few pics in my archive showing C1/C2 wiring for my Puma 1.7 install. I also remember having a slight wiring issue with my PATs
transponder; two of the wires we swapped from what the Ford TIS DVD showed in the diagrams.
 
Puma fusebox
Whereabouts in Essex are you?
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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Ian G
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| posted on 15/5/14 at 12:21 AM |
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Puma production as follows -
June 1997 - Jan 1999 - analogue odometer cars - ECU code name DUDE on the early ones, MUFF later, breakpoint seems to overlap somewhat. Three plugs
in the fusebox - green, white and black.
Feb 1999 - Sep 1999 - early digital odometer - ECU code TAPE. Two plugs in the fusebox, green and white. Single lambda sensor and therefore the most
desirable amongst people who don't run a cat as there's no post-cat sensor.
Oct 1999 - Dec 2001 - late digital odometer - ECU code DIVE or QQP0. Two plugs in the fusebox as per TAPE cars. Twin lambda on this one as
there's now a post-cat sensor. Loom includes the two lambda plugs, one green, one blue.
If you're mixing and matching the digital and analogue looms you're missing that entire black plug somewhere, not sure what diagrams
you're working from but you'll definitely be short of a lot of stuff if your fuse box is expecting three plugs and your body loom is only
providing two.
Best thing there if you've basically built a digital-spec body loom would be to ditch your loom and put the correct digital engine loom in its
place. Although having said all that, if its all sourced from an FRP then it will be early digital, ie TAPE loom (which is mapped different on that
application) and shouldn't have a black socket in the fuse box.
Good news is that if the body loom is correct then that would work straight off.
Bad news is that a non-aircon (fan plug is different) single lambda loom is the wiring equivalent of hens teeth in terms of donor vehicles. Although
you can use a twin lambda loom and just not use the second (blue) lambda plug, you just need to transpose pins 75 and 80 on the ECU plug to get your
temp gauge working. And get the appropriate later green pre-cat lambda sensor - or adapt the plug because that's different as well.
[Edited on 15/5/14 by Ian G]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 15/5/14 at 09:25 AM |
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Why use all the car loom ?
I cut the Mondeo engine loom up losing half the weight and bulk and use a six way fuse block and a couple of relays.
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johnH20
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| posted on 15/5/14 at 12:53 PM |
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Some very good info there chaps. My Engine, ECU ( TAPE ) transponder and key came from FRP 369 which was written off early in its life. My loom ( not
from the FRP ) has a manufacturers label ( Michels kabel ) dated 17/08/98. It has 3 plug fuse box ( black, white and green ) which is
consistent with the first build level but has a 104 pin ECU connecter. According to my version of Ford TIS the early looms had 60 pin connecters and
the post 99 1/4 ( second level ) the 104 pin which makes me think mine is some kind of interim or hybrid level
Not realising the difference I wired up my green and white fuse box connecters exactly as Madinventions on his prior thread. The transponder I have
exactly matches the wire coding of the connectors which I got from a third source. I thought I was on to a winner but little did I realise my green
and white connecters are 20 pin and my fuse box sockets are 16 pin. Physically they fit but obviously electrically the don't!
I am only using the engine control functions of the Ford loom, I have stripped off all the front lighting, A/C, PAS, cooling fans and other stuff.
I have not figured out if the black connector ( C1 in TIS ) runs any engine functions. A quick review of the wiring diagrams in TIS suggests not but I
need to study this more carefully, hence my ( forlorn? ) hope that some 16 pin connecters will do the job. As noted by Noobie the second level loom (
single HEGO ) was only in production for a short time so finding one will be challenging.
PS. for Madinvetions, I am in Ingatestone (CM4) near Chelmsford so not exactly local - wish I was!
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theprisioner
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| posted on 15/5/14 at 04:31 PM |
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MadInventions is the man where Ford ECU's are concerned he sorted my head out at a critical time on the build. My advice is take the loom apart
and keep only what you realy need. The ECU' age is not that critical as long as the ECU is newer than the engine. The first ECU I had (1997
DUDE) was eventually replaced with a YR2000 (DIVE) as Pumaspeed could not program a DUDE. The ECU works fine because Ford only ever had the one ECU on
that series of cars and they made them backwards compatible depending on what was connected. see my blog.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/ecu-re-mapping.html
The original loom will just confuse you concentrate on ensuring all the important engine sensors and PATS wires are connected to the ecu by tracing
them out with a buzzer. I still have some of the wires of the original loom and battery fuse box but I threw away all of what was not required.
Ensure the key matches your ECU and it will all work. The LED for the PATS is a critical fault finding aid. It gives out a code from the ecu when you
try to start the car. It will tell you what is wrong.
I currently get 155BHP and 50MPG from a setup very close to yours, hang in there.
If you lived close to me I would help sort you out.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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johnH20
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| posted on 16/5/14 at 07:26 PM |
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Thank you for your encouragement ' the prisoner ' After a few hours of depression I knuckled down and spent a long time with the wiring
diagrams for the early ' 3 plug ' and later '2 plug ' fuse boxes. For the benefit of others attempting this installation - 3
plug box, my findings - on paper I emphasise - are as follows:
C1 ( black ) provides - Ign run pin6 ( power hold relay )
Fuel pump pin 16
C2 ( white ) provides - Ign start pin 4
Clock pin 16 ( for PATS )
PATS pin 15 ( yellow green )
pin 14 ( black green )
pin 13 ( grey green )
pin 12 ( grey orange )
C3 ( green ) seems to have no powertrain functions.
There is an element of guess work on PATS based on matching the colour coding of the wires because I cannot find a definitive diagram in TIS. If
anyone can confirm the above I would be grateful. I hope to put it to the test on Sunday.
Keep your fingers crossed for me!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 16/5/14 at 08:12 PM |
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Is that what your after ? or the ecu end ?
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johnH20
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| posted on 16/5/14 at 09:05 PM |
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Hi Big Wasa, No, connection at C2 ( fuse box ) is what I am trying to confirm. I know the colours and the pins, I just want to be sure what looks like
PATS actually is PATS. As far as I can see Ford have not included a specific PATS circuit diagram anywhere, at least I cannot find it. Thanks for your
help anyway.
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Madinventions
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 12:09 AM |
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Hi,
I've done some digging through my notes and here is some info that may help:
TIS DVD, Puma 2000-2002, Group 4 electrical, Anti theft - passive.
TIS DVD, Puma 1997-1999, general connectors
Using the first image for wire colours and the 2nd for pin connections, the wiring is:
GY/OG wire from the PATS transceiver (10-MB37) goes to pin 12 of C2 - ECU pin 19
WH/GN wire (8-MB37) goes to C2 pin 13 - ECU pin 53
YE/GN wire (7-MB37) goes to C2 pin 15 (then VT/BK to IGN?) - connected to +12V IGN
BK/GN wire (91-MB37) goes to C2 pin 14 - 0V
The ECU wiring connections are from my notes from when I modified my Fiesta 1.25 loom to fit to the Puma 1.7 install. I'm not 100% sure of the
code of the ECU I ended up fitting but I will try and see if I can find this out. It's a bit buried in the engine bay at the moment so may take
a little while to discover.
Does any of this match up with your wiring?
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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Madinventions
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| posted on 17/5/14 at 12:37 AM |
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Ok, good news, my ECU wasn't as hard to get too as I'd feared and I have a TAPE ECU too so this wiring should work as long as the loom
matches up. Just to clarify, I found another scribbled note in my book that shows the PATS wiring cut down to the absolute minimum:
Good luck, and fingers crossed.
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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johnH20
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| posted on 18/5/14 at 04:31 PM |
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Well, I can announce success of a sort. Fitted my newly acquired 16 pin plugs, wired up PATS accordingly and lo and behold fuel pumps run and engine (
without plugs in ) turns over. Almost there! I then put fuel in and the plugs back. Not enough volts to turn the engine over - not surprising really
given the time it has stood around doing nothing. Its now on charge so hopefully will fire tomorrow. I will let you all know. Thanks for all the help
and general encouragement.
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johnH20
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| posted on 19/5/14 at 08:01 PM |
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Well I would like to have announced a roaring success, unfortunately it was only a series of coughs! At least the clock is showing no immobiliser
faults, the engine cranks energetically and tries to start and I can smell fuel. I am hopeful this means there are no PATS gremlins and that I need to
fix plugs and or injectors. I have had the plugs out and they look good so I am guessing the injectors need cleaning after years of inactivity. I am
now away for 6 weeks so the champagne moment will have to be deferred.
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beaver34
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| posted on 19/5/14 at 08:15 PM |
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make sure the leads are the right way round, there is a change of ford coils where the wiring differs so you run them the other way round to what it
says on the coil
ive got a spare that runs the opposite way to whats on the car, if i dont change my leads it just pops and bangs
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johnH20
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 07:40 PM |
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Hi Beaver 34. yes I seem to have an odd set of plug leads, basically too long for the installation. I cannot be sure they are original. I have two
other engines where the leads are obviously only able to fit the designated plugs. I have installed leads as indicated on the coil pack. Not managed
to improve the situation today - 6 weeks before I can have another go. Thanks anyway.
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