gaz05
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 01:46 PM |
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Blacktop two piece sump on a silvertop
Is this possible? It looks a cheaper option then getting the alloy silvertop one altered. I'm sure the blacktop one would need a bit of
butchering to accommodate the cap bolts etc. Anyone know how deep they are including the steel bit?
Thanks
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r1_pete
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 02:06 PM |
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I fitted a silvertop sump to a blacktop, but to fit the widage tray I needed spacers because the main caps are deeper on the silvertop.
hence, I'm pretty sure the ally part of the blacktop sump would not fit, unless of course you cut the integral windage tray out.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 02:39 PM |
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The alloy part of the Blacktop sump was intended to stiffen up the block and also provides a cast in windage tray. You would have to cut out the
internals to make it fit thus it would become very weak. The tin part of the sump is too narrow and after cutting to make the sump a suitable depth
has way too little capacity. That is why none of the specialist companies offer this service.
Stick to a Silvertop sump, The Scholar one is great value and is a top product. http://www.scholarengines.co.uk/Lowline%20sump.htm
Bodging on a poor sump is a sure way to kill your engine, its not a place to save money.
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gaz05
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 03:31 PM |
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£250 exchange!!!
I'll see about getting the one I've got altered.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 04:35 PM |
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My crate blacktop cost me £700. Fuel injecting it cost another £2000. Mounts, flywheel, clutch, hoses etc all added up to another tidy sum. Total cost
was probably in the region of £3500.
My sump cost just over £200 in 2001. Have had 12 years use out of it, that's £17 a year and its still perfect.
Even if you DIY you still have to sort the baffling and pickup, that is where most DIY bodges go badly wrong.
In the big scheme of things £250 for a sump is peanuts, do it wrong and you will kill the motor, lubrication is critical.
£225 a year for RFL, £250 for a quality sump that is fit and forget and will last you years, think about that for a minute.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 05:44 PM |
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I agree with Pete but it has been done by shaving bits of the inside.
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whitestu
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 06:42 PM |
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Why not just fit a blacktop?
If you can weld you can easily chop the sump yourself.
My 2.0 Blacktop cost £85.
Stu
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gaz05
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 09:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
Why not just fit a blacktop?
If you can weld you can easily chop the sump yourself.
My 2.0 Blacktop cost £85.
Stu
I've yet to go for IVA and the engine I've got is a low mileage pre 95.
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whitestu
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| posted on 10/12/13 at 10:12 PM |
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quote:
quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
Why not just fit a blacktop?
If you can weld you can easily chop the sump yourself.
My 2.0 Blacktop cost £85.
Stu
I've yet to go for IVA and the engine I've got is a low mileage pre 95
I see!
I think the other option is to get hold of a 1.8cvh steel sump. I've not done it myself but believe they can be made to fit a Silver top easily
enough.
I had a 1.8cvh before my Blacktop and chopping the sump was pretty straightforward.
Stu
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baz-R
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| posted on 17/12/13 at 01:12 PM |
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why not do what i did
cut a band out the middle of the alloy sump and take it somewhere to tig weld it back together (alloy mig even)
you then shorten the pickup your self
leak check with tap water 
if you need a bit mor oil capacty you can box in the cutout like i did (im at 4.2L)
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gaz05
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 10:47 AM |
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Well my can do attitude has just cost me £30. Got a new blacktop sump off Ebay with the intention of converting only to find that the starter
won't fit. I would have to cut away so much alloy it wouldn't be viable. I really should listen to the wealth of info on here.
So planning on having the original sump cut and shut.
I've got a brand new blacktop sump here for the price of postage if anyone wants one.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 11:51 AM |
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Yes you have to take a lot off, but its quite feasible::
 
starter2
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big_wasa
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| posted on 9/2/14 at 12:38 PM |
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The material removal has got nothing to do with it going on a silver top its required for the black top as well.
I've modified three or four now but going on a silver top will require more work to the cast alloy baffle to clear the main bearing caps that
are higher up on the black top.
Don't be tempted to short cut chopping of the alloy with a hammer, been there and tried that 
[Edited on 9/2/14 by big_wasa]
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