Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 04:30 PM |
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Cv boots - how to make stronger?
I am dealing with a problem in my Spitfire with Hayabusa engine.
I have a driveshaft from the engine to the rear diff and had to replace the UV joint with CV joint on the driveshaft.
(The UV joints made the car shake because the engine is not inline with the diff.)
The CV boots cant handle the driveshaft high speed, and blows/rips all the time. They are to soft and wimpy.
Does anyone have a good tip on how I can make the CV boots stronger? Someone here mentioned using zip tie on the boot.
- Any other solution? Or will using zip tie solve the problem?
Thanks
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 04:46 PM |
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late spitfires used a cv joint on the prop without problems,
but a quick check reminds me that they didn't have rubber, but metal covers
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500propellorshaft.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=g
earbox&xsl=diagram.xsl
link
edit, to make link work
[Edited on 23/3/13 by gremlin1234]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 04:50 PM |
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Would a better quality boot help? The VW ones fitted to my car are incredibly tough, far stronger than the ones I fitted to my old Vauxhall. More like
flexible plastic rather than rubber?
Why did the UV joints cause the car to shake? I thought having the engine and diff out of alignment was actually a good thing?
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Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
late spitfires used a cv joint on the prop without problems,
but a quick check reminds me that they didn't have rubber, but metal covers
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500propellorshaft.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=g
earbox&xsl=diagram.xsl
link
edit, to make link work
[Edited on 23/3/13 by gremlin1234]
Yes the standard Spitfire have UV on the driveshaft/prop, but mine is no longer standard, I wrote I did replace the old engine with a Hayabusa engine,
and that is a different story. I had to replace the prop and was using in the beginning very strong UV, but because the Hayabusa engine have the drive
output axle on the right hand side the prop is not alligned with the diff. And that caused some very unpleasant vibration in the hole car. The
vibration was gone when using the CV joint.
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 04:59 PM |
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ive got silicone cv boots for a sierra fitted to mine
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 05:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Would a better quality boot help? The VW ones fitted to my car are incredibly tough, far stronger than the ones I fitted to my old Vauxhall. More like
flexible plastic rather than rubber?
Why did the UV joints cause the car to shake? I thought having the engine and diff out of alignment was actually a good thing?
Probably t a better/stiffer boot would solve the problem, but I cant find any with 22 mm and 68 mm.
When using UV joints, the flange on the diff and on the engine has to be 100% (or almost) aligned, in my car this is not the case.
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Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 05:05 PM |
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One idea was to use zap tie and some flexible and strong material around the boot, but I haven't found what material I could use for this
purpose...
Maybe I could strap somekind of a rubber around the boot and strap it together?
I was also thinking of some kind of a plastic material I could fit around the boot and heat it so it would fit very tight on the boot?
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adithorp
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 05:20 PM |
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some manufacturerused large O rings in the groves of the boot. renault fromancient memory. also makesure the boots you're using aren't
strrretch ones.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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whitestu
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 06:13 PM |
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quote:
some manufacturerused large O rings in the groves of the boot. renault fromancient memory. also makesure the boots you're using aren't
strrretch ones
My BX GTI had those.
Stu
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 06:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Northpole
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
late spitfires used a cv joint on the prop without problems,
but a quick check reminds me that they didn't have rubber, but metal covers
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500propellorshaft.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=g
earbox&xsl=diagram.xsl
link
edit, to make link work
[Edited on 23/3/13 by gremlin1234]
Yes the standard Spitfire have UV on the driveshaft/prop, but mine is no longer standard, I wrote I did replace the old engine with a Hayabusa engine,
and that is a different story. I had to replace the prop and was using in the beginning very strong UV, but because the Hayabusa engine have the drive
output axle on the right hand side the prop is not alligned with the diff. And that caused some very unpleasant vibration in the hole car. The
vibration was gone when using the CV joint.
as I wrote, some spitfires did use CV joints - with metal covers.
see tkc1754/ tkc1755 in link (cv at front uj at rear)
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Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 06:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
some manufacturerused large O rings in the groves of the boot. renault fromancient memory. also makesure the boots you're using aren't
strrretch ones.
Very good idea! Thanks I will look into this solution.
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designer
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 07:18 PM |
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quote:
When using UV joints, the flange on the diff and on the engine has to be 100% (or almost) aligned, in my car this is not the case.
Engine and diff flange do not have to be 100% aligned. They both have to be parallel to the centreline of the car.
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Northpole
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| posted on 23/3/13 at 07:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by designer
quote:
When using UV joints, the flange on the diff and on the engine has to be 100% (or almost) aligned, in my car this is not the case.
Engine and diff flange do not have to be 100% aligned. They both have to be parallel to the centreline of the car.
Correct, sorry for my English...
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Northpole
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 05:33 PM |
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Anyone have experience with cable tie on CV inner ribs boots?
[Edited on 24/3/13 by Northpole]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 06:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Northpole
Anyone have experience with cable tie on CV inner ribs boots?
[Edited on 24/3/13 by Northpole]
My tintop inner CV boot is strapped on with cable ties in place of the metal locking ties that need a particular tool to clamp in place. Never had any
trouble with it and it's passed an MOT, although I'm guessing it's spinning around 3.5 times slower than your application?
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 07:00 PM |
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http://www.raceparts.co.uk/products/drive_train.asp?section=GKN+CV+Boots
any good?
I am using them for my rear CV conversion on a spitfire as "nprmal" boots are too large. These ones are good for very high rpm (18000 from
memory)
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Northpole
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 08:57 PM |
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Very interesting, as mine is spinning at a very high speed and the boots simply blows up and the grease comes out overall.
As I am having trouble finding better stiffer boots, I read somewhere I could simply use cable (or zip) tie on the inner diameter of the boots itself
pls see attached picture), this would make the boot stiffer and not blow up.
Any comments? Has anyone tried this?
 
CV Boot
[Edited on 24/3/13 by Northpole]
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adithorp
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 09:41 PM |
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They'd probably work, but the corners on the "buckle" might wear through the boot over time.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 24/3/13 at 11:36 PM |
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You need the style of boot like these here: JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIBERTY FRONT PROPSHAFT TRANSFER CASE REAR CV JOINT BOOT KIT |
eBay
I think the ones in cliftyhanger's link are like that, but the pics dont show the shape too well.
The rubber of the boot is supported by the steel collar so it cant expand at the higher rpm of the propshaft.
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