Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 02:26 PM |
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Modifying Clutch Pedal
Not sure if I've brought this up on here before or not. Because my clutch pedal is the standard Sierra setup as in the piccy below
(self-adjuster is cr*p!), and I want to use a cable with the adjuster at the gearbox end (second piccy), I want to try and modify the clutch pedal to
take a standard Cortina type cable with threaded adjuster and the eyelet at the pedal end. I am thinking of some form of box section welded to the
pedal to accept a bolt to take the eyelet and making it as close to the original cable position as possible to get the right movement.
Piccy 1
Piccy
2
Anyone had any experience at this sort of thing and do you think it will work?
It just makes life so much easier when buying replacement cables 
Thanks guys 
P.S. Tried putting the piccies on here as normal but for some reason they won't upload, not too big or wrong format 
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Daddylonglegs]
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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loggyboy
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 02:32 PM |
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Could you not just put a bolt through the hole already in the top of the pedal? You might loose some distance, but clutches pedals are usually overly
long compared with whats accutally need to engage and disengage the clutch.
Mistral Motorsport
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 02:47 PM |
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Not a bad idea chap
If I could put a bush in the hole where the ratchet pin (#3 on the diagram) goes then that would probably be at around the right height and have
similar travel too. Hmmmm......
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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Grimsdale
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 07:33 PM |
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i think you'ld be on the limit of the adjusting mechanism on the manual adjust cable if you did that, as it's quite a distance.
what i did was to get a flat piece of steel, shape it into a U and weld it on the end of the pedal. drilled a hole, fitted the cable above with an m6
bolt. easy
That was about 10,000 miles ago and no problems.
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Grimsdale]
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 30/1/13 at 08:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Grimsdale
i think you'ld be on the limit of the adjusting mechanism on the manual adjust cable if you did that, as it's quite a distance.
what i did was to get a flat piece of steel, shape it into a U and weld it on the end of the pedal. drilled a hole, fitted the cable above with an m6
bolt. easy
That was about 10,000 miles ago and no problems.
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Grimsdale]
Not quite sure what you mean mate, any chance of a piccy?
Edit:
I've just found this whilst searching the web:
Pedal Conversion
Courtesy of Graham Goode Performance
I'm now thinking maybe I can use part of the adjustment pawl and some steel along with a little ingenuity
[Edited on 30/1/13 by Daddylonglegs]
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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Grimsdale
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| posted on 31/1/13 at 08:54 AM |
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i don't think i took any photos, let me try and describe it better. If not, i'll try and find a photo and draw over it!
I cut the pivot point for the ratchet off the pedal, so the whole pedal resembles a U shaped pressing. I just made this U shape longer by about 50mm
by welding another section on the top. The top section then had a hole drilled in for a bolt which passes through the o shaped loop on the cortina
type cable. Cost me almost nothing, bar the cable.
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 31/1/13 at 04:39 PM |
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Did you have any problems with the cable coming through the hole above the pedal box catching? I ask as as someone has already mentioned, the arc of
the pawl keeps the cable at a constant angle to the bulkhead so it runs straight throughout the pedal travel. If that makes sense?
These pictures may help explain what I mean:
 
Rescued attachment PedalMod.jpg
 
Rescued attachment Pedals.jpg
Borrowed off the forum as I can't upload pictures still.
[Edited on 31/1/13 by Daddylonglegs]
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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Grimsdale
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| posted on 31/1/13 at 07:44 PM |
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well, i drilled several holes, offset, to simulate a 45, 50 and 55mm pawl. It did catch on the 55mm one, but is fine on the 50.
Mind you, i did have to weld up a large fatigue crack around that tube, so it might have happened because of that... (I can't remember the
timing) 
[Edited on 31/1/13 by Grimsdale]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 31/1/13 at 08:22 PM |
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Someone once did a kit to convert to an adjustable cable on the Sierra possibly Sandalloy?? ISTR reading about it in a motor factors years ago ,It
might be worth checking
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 31/1/13 at 08:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Daddylonglegs
Did you have any problems with the cable coming through the hole above the pedal box catching? I ask as as someone has already mentioned, the arc of
the pawl keeps the cable at a constant angle to the bulkhead so it runs straight throughout the pedal travel. If that makes sense?
These pictures may help explain what I mean:
Rescued attachment PedalMod.jpg
Rescued attachment Pedals.jpg
Borrowed off the forum as I can't upload pictures still.
[Edited on 31/1/13 by Daddylonglegs]
....and I can confirm this setup works perfectly, 20K on
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Dooey99
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| posted on 17/3/13 at 08:05 PM |
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this sounds like a really stupid question but...
whats the yellow bit called on the clutch pedal that allows the cable to move in a circular motion gaining more travel?
im making my own pedal box and need to buy one of these bits
Less weight more speed, more power more speed
If in doubt, give it a clout
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 05:21 PM |
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That will be the 'quadrant'
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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