yellowcab
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 06:58 PM |
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Gear linkage issues... help please...
Show me your clutch mechanisms & gear setups... I currently have a grotty setup which looks nasty, and gear changes are hit & miss...
Would like to see what other people have done - whether you're using stick shift, or paddles... gear rod, or cables...
Thanks in advance, for any photos posted
Cheers, Olly
[Edited on 27/1/13 by yellowcab]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:13 PM |
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My current setup for those interested - ignore the grottiness of it all, its being cleaned up lol
The offending item which was always hit & miss
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daniel mason
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:14 PM |
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have a look in my photo archive in caterham busa project
im using sbd dry sump
sbd hydraulic clutch slave,
uprated clutch springs
and arch stick shift with built in flat shift and throttle blip
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daniel mason
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:17 PM |
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bottom row 3rd from right is sbd clutch slave
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yellowcab
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:24 PM |
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So your gear change is stay with a rod, but you've got a rocker to switch the throw?
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daniel mason
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:28 PM |
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arch who made the caterham chassis build these, adjustable rod with rocker.with a load cell built in to en for flatshifts. its very good quality.and i
bought it second hand with all my other bits
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40inches
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 08:32 PM |
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Mine has a pivot on the engine cradle, and a rod straight back to the gear lever.
 
Shiny Gearlever
 
Brake line
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yellowcab
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 08:40 AM |
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Thanks for the replies, its the route that concerned me with swapping to a cable, as my car is already built I wasn't sure how much access I
needed...
Dannys pic here shows a high pivot point, and the fulcrum is beneath, mine is the opposite way around, with the fulcrum above the pivot...
So ultimately, I presume it has to pass vigorously to the passenger side then sweep back across to get the angle right, but obviously the curves need
to be smooth?
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sdh2903
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 09:04 AM |
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Get a paddle shift kit from Andy Bates, not cheap but very good. I wasn't convinced I needed a paddle shift but I'm glad I did. Both hands
on the wheel in a BEC quite useful!
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renetom
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 09:25 AM |
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gear change
Hi
I think for you the best solution is
40 Inches method.
we have a paddle shift with linkage which works
well , you could also use paddles with a push pull
cable., we just preferred the direct linkage,which was suitable for our R1.
 
Paddle linkage 2
As for the clutch we used a Capri cable
(see pict) bike clutches are like an on & off switch having so little travel , extend the lever & this helps with more feel & less
stalling.
 
R1 Clutch fitting
 
good luck whatever you choose.
René
[Edited on 28/1/13 by renetom]
[Edited on 28/1/13 by renetom]
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yellowcab
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 04:37 PM |
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Guys - thanks for your time & effort replying, I shall certainly give it some thought as to paddles or not.
Something that was steering away, was with my current setup, I really had to 'bang' the gear level quite hard and quite fierce for it not
to miss a gear, and I just felt that I couldn't possibly have enough strength in my fingers to create the gear change...
Maybe its just because my current setup just isn't very good, but that was the main reason I was put off by paddles
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 04:54 PM |
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Granted mine is an r1 not a busa, but I've had no issues whatsoever with gearchanges with the cable operated paddles at all. Yes they take a
positive click but still very easy, even when going up the box without using the clutch. I was very sceptical of having paddles but now I
wouldn't go any other way with a BEC.
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