DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 01:34 PM |
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Pinto overheating... again!!!
Hmmmm
Asa some of you know I had a lot of problems with overheating when i first got the Tiger on the road. With a little help i finally got those sorted...
and they were fine for about 18 months....
then a couple of months ago I was stuck in traffic and the temperature climbed to about 110 before a hose joiner let go and dumped all my fluid on the
road 
I repaired the join and filled /bled the system as usual but it just keeps on overheating every few miles.
I have since completely reworked the cooling... I removed the rad and flushed thoroughly with a hose pipe. moved the oild cooler so it is no longer
in front of the rad. fitted a fan overrride switch just in case. replaced the pipe that runs from the bottom of the header tank to the pump so that
it no longer has to climb up a couple of inches. and replaced the small bore tube that runs from the highest point in the system (top of the bend
coming out of the thermostat housing) back to the header tank, this now is smaller diameter (10mm tube) and no longer rises up 3 inches above the
hieght of the header tank... replaced the thermostat and drilled a couple of small holes in it as recommended by so many...
refilled and worked out the airlocks as best i can - the same way as i always have.
now i take it out and it overheats worse than ever! took it last night (in 2 degrees temp) ran for about 2 miles. got home and temp was 100. (fan was
running)
as soon as i switched off the engine the pressure cap on the header tank was hissing like a 'good'n' for several minutes
SO>>>
my question is this.... what do I try now? I'm stumped!
to decribe my plumbing... I have a polo rad with a side header tank built in but the cap has been blocked so it is no longer a pressure cap. bottom
hose goes to pump top hose to stat housing with a 10mm take off at the highest point going to the top of the header tank. bottom hose from header tank
goes to pump. The heater outlet on the head is blanked off which i know causes a lot of debate but it has been that way all along and was fine for 18
months
fan is wired correctly and pulling air through rad. oil cooler is now above rad so not obstructing and as rad pretty much fills the nose cone there
isnt much space for air to go anywhere but through it.
[Edited on 3-12-09 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Breaker
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 01:44 PM |
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Are you sure the water pump is still OK? Perhaps the internal pulley (water side) is broken/slipping, so the hot water isn't pumped trough your
radiator ?
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omega0684
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 01:52 PM |
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i have a big ass ali rad im thinking of selling, i can't get mine to temperatures above 95 even when im driving hard! might be worth fitting a
bigger rad?
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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miikae
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 01:53 PM |
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I'd be taking the water pump off and checking to see if the impeller was rotating with the shaft and not just spinning free.
Mike
If it can be done it i will be done .
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mr henderson
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 01:57 PM |
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Does the radiator get hot?
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Memphis Twin
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:04 PM |
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I would check for a cracked or warped cylinder head, or a blown head gasket.
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l0rd
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:04 PM |
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What about the Thermostat????????
Is it working???
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dogwood
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:10 PM |
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Can't help with your problem.
Other than to say I have the same Polo rad type setup on my 1800 Pinto.
And even with our summer temp of 35deg +
It never overheated, infact it rarely turned the fan on, unless stuck in traffic.
My first thought would also be the pump.
Assuming the thermostat was OK
david
FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!
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jacko
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:13 PM |
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Do you have a water pipe coming out the inlet manifold ? if not air could be traped in the head
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HOL
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:26 PM |
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Get a friendly local garage to rest your radiator water for hydro carbons (Costs about a fiver). Just to make sure your head gasket is ok.
Then I would do as suggested, checking the pump and the stat in a jug of hot water.
Personally, I would put a looped hose in place of the heater circuit and retest.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:29 PM |
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Pump was brand new when built 2 years ago.... but will pull it off and check... 
rad is getting hot.
thermostat is new and i tested it before fitting.
As I said above, i know the pipe coming from the inlet manifold is the source of many arguments but it has been fine without one for 18 months so why
should it become a problem now?
cheers
Dave
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:31 PM |
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good idea about gas testing... will look into that
If i did put a loop in from the heater outlet i have nowhere to connect the other end to? I suppose I could connect a t piece to another pipe
somewhere ? inlet to pump? or outlet from stat?
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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jacko
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:39 PM |
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I dont know if this will help you this is how mine is piped
Big top rad - thermostat
big bottom - pump
rad over flow blocked
pipe out of inlet manifold - top of header tank
bottom of header tank to 5/8 pipe on the pump
small 8mm pipe on thermostat blocked
thermostat drilled 1/8 hole
The header tank has a top that lets air in and out [ sierra tank with yellow top]
Jacko
 
engine 2
[Edited on 3/12/09 by jacko]
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02GF74
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:46 PM |
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checked timing?
checked mixture ? what do spark plugs look like colourwise?
what sort of grille do you have?
what size fan do you have and how fitted to radiator? i,e. have cowl - in front of behind radiator?
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jacko
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:51 PM |
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As above The front grill try the car without it
Andy w on here had trouble over heating till he removed the grill
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 02:59 PM |
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but grille hasnt changed.... and was fine beore...
Its a fine mesh grille..
I have tweaked the tuning which may have made it a little leaner at idle.... plugs look perfect.
[Edited on 3-12-09 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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graememk
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 03:06 PM |
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do an insurance job and buy a westfield....
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MautoK
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 03:07 PM |
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I had horrendous overheating with my MK earlier this year and ended up swapping the engine since when it's been fine. It used to boil after
about 3 miles around town.
Re plumbing, I have:
Polo rad with no cap/side tank W302 IIRC.
Top hose: Stat to rad upper
Bottom hose: Rad bottom to 32-15-32 T-piece to big pump inlet and 15mm to header tank at rear of engine
Manifold looped to small pump stub
Small-bore hoses in 'T' configuration connecting rad bleed, stat bleed and header tank 'overflow'.
...so it runs totally enclosed and has been fine since the engine swap.
I think I had weak antifreeze in it last winter and there were some fairly severe frosts which may have set off a crack in the block or head - I
haven't looked at the old engine to diagnose it.
But if yours has only started playing up recently it's quite likely head gasket or pump...
Try a compression test and have a look at the pump innards.
I've also shrouded between the rad and nose cone to persuade max air through the rad and cut vents in the bonnet to help the hot air to get
out.
John.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/12/09 at 05:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
Pump was brand new when built 2 years ago.... but will pull it off and check...
rad is getting hot.
thermostat is new and i tested it before fitting.
As I said above, i know the pipe coming from the inlet manifold is the source of many arguments but it has been fine without one for 18 months so why
should it become a problem now?
cheers
Dave
You have probably blown the head gasket (almost unkown on a Pinto) by running without a
Bypass
[Edited on 3/12/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Breaker
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| posted on 7/12/09 at 03:03 PM |
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Problem already found/solved ?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 7/12/09 at 06:41 PM |
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Off with it's head!!
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FASTdan
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| posted on 9/12/09 at 02:47 PM |
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sounds like HG to me, but would probably check the pump first.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 19/4/10 at 01:07 PM |
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BTTT
Ok... for personal reasons nothing has been done to the tiger for the last 6 months
Now trying to get it ready for Stoneliegh and still need to resolve my overheating issues...
checked head gasket and pump - all fine
my brother visited last weekend and he has been a motor mechanic for 25 years... he sugested that my top 'bleed' hose was the issue.
The diagram below shows as close as possible my current setup and i have tried to show the relative heights etc...
the problem he believes is that the fluid level in my header is below the highest point in the system (not a lot i can do about that) but he suggested
that my breather tube is actually allowing air into the system. he suggested i block off the pipe completely.
a quick check proves that when at idle very little water is in the top tube and when stopped the top tube is totally empty. squeezing the tube and
releasing you can hear it sucking in air through the header tank pressure cap...
As a compromise I have installed a small valve (actually a gas cut off valve) along the bleed tube and a manual bleed valve at the highest point. I
figure I can gets some revs going open the valve to bleed the system then close it before letting off the throttle.
now when stopped or idle the top tube seems much 'more full' so that seems promising!
so.... any thoughts?
and please... give up with the whole bypass argument! 
[img][/img]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/4/10 at 01:40 PM |
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Absolutely no need to run a bypass on a pinto, mine was blocked off for 6000miles without any major overheating problems.
I think you have hit the nail on the head with the fluid level. The level in the tank *must* be higher than the highest point in the system.
If it is then the system will self bleed and makes everything nice and simple.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 19/4/10 at 01:48 PM |
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im concerned about this.
my bleed hose returns to ABOVE the fluid level on my expansion tank. The expansion tank is a standard rover item and has a "max" fluid
level well below the top hose tail.
Will this mean my XE is likely to overheat?
Craig
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