Irony
|
| posted on 17/9/09 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
Rover V8 engine numbers - can't find mine
After much searching and much googling I still can't find my Rover V8 engine numbers.
With my part built kit I received not 1 but 2 Rover V8's
Engine 1
17D05781B with a Offenhouser Manifold and a Holley Carb
Engine 2
Autobox with a unknown carb thing (dunno need to research it, looks a big jumble of stuff to me)
S10A44028
Can anyone find these codes?
Both are in unknown condition but have both been 'apparently' been seen running by previous owner. That was two years ago and since then
they have been stored in a reasonably dry garage.
Being as I have little experience in engine rebuilding what do you guys recommend I do?? I am willing to research and learn all I can to sort these
out. Should I strip them down photographing as I go along and then finding out their condition?? Or should I just wire 'em' up and see
what happens (as recommended by my dad who is a seasoned mechanic of many years but loves short cuts wayyy to much)
|
|
|
|
|
miikae
|
| posted on 17/9/09 at 10:10 PM |
|
|
Have a look Here as i think its there.
Mike
If it can be done it i will be done .
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 17/9/09 at 10:27 PM |
|
|
Rover v8's are cheaper to buy than refurbish, run them up.
Expect lots of top end clatter for 5 minutes as the followers pump up so leave at a fast idle, they will sound absolutely knackered!
A good tip is to pluck out the distributor and prime the the engine by spinning the oil pump with an electric drill.
You can see the top of the pump drive as it runs from the bottom of the distributor so get a bit of small tube and flatten the end to so it will
locate over the drive.
Drill running in normal direction, you will know when oil is pumping as the drill will start to strain. If this does not happen then you will need to
prime the pump, take it apart and pack with vaseline (not grease), however I have had success in the past by extracting the oil pressure switch and
forcing in some oil then replacing the switch as this can also prime the pump.
Your dad is correct in this instance.
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 18/9/09 at 07:09 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
17D05781B
17D00001B Range Rover Classic 3528 9.35 125 92 Pulsair LT77 ba
S10A44028
this doesn't follow the standard numbering scheme - V8 were made by Rover and sold to other car makers who whould apply their own
number system, e.g. Morgan, TVR
closest I could find is:
S46D0000A Morgan +8 4555 9.35:1 220 162 Man 5 Sp Injection
do you see the CR stamped next to the engine number?
The engine number and compression ratio are stamped on the left* side of the block in between the centre two spark plugs , near the dipstick.On
earlier models the engine number is stamped on horizontal flat surface at the rear of the left-hand cylinder bank
* from driver's seating position
|
|
|
Irony
|
| posted on 18/9/09 at 08:14 AM |
|
|
Thanks for the replies. I did find the 17D00001B code but as I didn't find an exact number I thought I would post a query.
Attached is a couple of photos of engine one
 
Rescued attachment DSCF0170
|
|
|
Irony
|
| posted on 18/9/09 at 08:16 AM |
|
|
Another pic
I am sorry to ask these questions that may seem somewhat simple to the seasoned mechanics out there but I am learning fast!!!!!
 
Rescued attachment DSCF0170
|
|
|
Canada EH!
|
| posted on 18/9/09 at 01:34 PM |
|
|
If you want to check for engine seize before trying to start them. Remove the spark plugs, squirt some WD40 in the bores.
Wait 24 hours and with a johnson bar and socket on the front pulley attempt to turn them over. If it doesn't move time to take the heads off
and have a look.
If the engine turns over, turn it over several times and put the plugs back in.
Place plastic bags over the exhaust and intake and leave till you need them.
Then when ready to start prime the oil system as described above.
Edelbrock and others make a tool which is put in the drill to prime the system, works on most GM V8's and early V6's.
|
|
|
