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Author: Subject: edelbrock plumbing.
swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 07:52 AM Reply With Quote
edelbrock plumbing.

hello all,

we had a go at fitting the new (to me) manifold and carbs bought off ebay a while back.

would you guys in the know have a look ast where the plumbing is at so far and let me know if it looks ok?

my big concern is the water pipe from the pump back into the manifold, should this be directly linked or should it be going somewhere else?

also where the top hose connects to the manifold it fouls the dizzy, can i get an angled take off pipe from the manifold that will route the pipe away and around the side of the dizzy?

thanks

paul Rescued attachment carb1.JPG
Rescued attachment carb1.JPG

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 07:53 AM Reply With Quote
more pics Rescued attachment carb2.JPG
Rescued attachment carb2.JPG

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 07:53 AM Reply With Quote
another Rescued attachment carb4.JPG
Rescued attachment carb4.JPG

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r1_pete

posted on 7/9/09 at 08:06 AM Reply With Quote
On my old MGB V8, which had the same manifold, the pipe I've marked A went to the heater, the heater return to B.

If you're not running a heater you need to take a spur off A and connect it to B.

Unless your radiator is higher than A, in which case you need to connect A to B, and run a vent from the top of your radiaor to the header tank. Rescued attachment V8.jpg
Rescued attachment V8.jpg







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robinj66

posted on 7/9/09 at 09:00 AM Reply With Quote
There is a custom made pipe that fits between the rear of the water pump and the small stub on the thermostat housing. An example is here - RV8 hose

The connector at the rear of the inlet manifold is usually connected to one of the heater hoses (as pete says). The other heater hose shoud connect to the smaller stub on the arm of the water pump. if you have no heater then these two should be connected.

You may have to turn the distributor to avoid contact with the larger hose - you may have to move the leads one or two places on the cap.

Here are a couple of pics of my setup

[img][/img]


[img][/img]


[img][/img]


[img][/img]

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DanP

posted on 7/9/09 at 09:18 AM Reply With Quote
Hi,

I have the same setup I believe (jwr dual port and weber 500)

here is my installation:
V8 Megajolt Installation 1
V8 Megajolt Installation 1


the lower hose from the back of the manif goes through heater back to water pump (mine just runs to pump as I have no heater), the upper hose at the back is blanked off on my manif and I don't know what it's for, the thermostat bypass connector goes the the pipe facing it on the water pump.

When I had a dizzy on my engine I had to rotate the dizzy from it's original position so that the vacuum unit would clear the top hose. Also when running dizzy you need to use the opposite vacuum to me, you need the ported one on the left as you look at carb from front.

Hope that helps
Dan

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 09:22 AM Reply With Quote
thanks guys, great responses, the pics help a lot!

i'll get myself one of those pipes ordered!

robin gooid idea re dizzy, wiull have a play with that tonight.

thanks again

Paul

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 09:31 AM Reply With Quote
hi dan

interesting to see the size of the pancake you're using there, maybe i should re think the massive job i've got. i could fit a smaller bonnet bulge then

Paul

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DanP

posted on 7/9/09 at 12:07 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Paul,

When i bought it I especially wanted a low clearance filter, the guy at V8tuner (who has always seemed to give good advice) said it should be ok as they are used on big american engines.

But a couple of people here have sggested it might be too small, so I will probably change it at some point - hopefully the 1" spacer I have under the carb (to stop vapor lock) won't make it too difficult to find another filter to fit.

I have an edelbrock pro-flo foam filter too but unfortnately that won't fit any more. I may try running the car around the block with the bonnet off just to see if the pro-flo is better.

Cheers,
Dan

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
would be interested to know the results. using a pancaske that small does mean you get a really neat bonnet line.

i suspect mine will be a much bigger affair! off to a yank scrappers this afternoon to see what i can find.

still it cant be worse than my old su's!

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robinj66

posted on 7/9/09 at 05:26 PM Reply With Quote
You could also try this sort of filter
Edelbrock

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swanny

posted on 7/9/09 at 06:38 PM Reply With Quote
dan, i dont suppose you have a high res pic of the linkage on the carb do you? cant quite figure out if i've got all the bits i need.

robin, they do look good. a friend has one of those, and it seems to run ok. might b worth a go, would make a big difference to size of bonnet bulge.

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DanP

posted on 7/9/09 at 10:01 PM Reply With Quote
I haven't I'm afraid but here is a drawing:

Weber 500 throttle plate fix
Weber 500 throttle plate fix


I think you have the same accelerator cable as me, I bought mine from Real Steel. It will not bolt straight to the carb and stay still because there isn't a straight edge to butt against

I had to make up a plate to provide a straight edge to hold the bracket in place. I think you could drill a hole in the carb base for the small locating dowel in the throttle bracket, but i needed something to attach my throttle return springs to as well.

HTH
Dan

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swanny

posted on 8/9/09 at 08:10 AM Reply With Quote
thanks

Paul

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