sonic
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:26 PM |
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R1 Clutch operation question
I have a 2001 carbed R1 engine in my MNR and although the clutch works as it should i am finding it hard to get consistant with the all most on off
operation of a bike engine clutch ie very little progreshion.
A thought i had open to discussion.
If i got another clutch lever and exstended it would that give more pedal movement and more progreshion on the biting point?
I am sure i have seen somewhere on here it had been done
Thanks
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BenB
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:29 PM |
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Has the engine been sitting for a while? If so give it some time before making any changes. The plates stick together during storage and it often
takes a little running in before they unstick. If in doubt get it to 40mph, put down the clutch then stamp on the brakes. Should unstick any reluctant
discs....
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stuart_g
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:32 PM |
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Exactly the same problem I had. I cut the lever part off and made a new one 3/4 of an inch longer and welded it on inplace of original. Now works very
well and a lot more progressive.
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sonic
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:35 PM |
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Hi BenB
The clutch works fine,i think it is the genral way a bike clutch works.
If you were on a bike the clutch lever would only move about 10mm between bite point and fully engaged,using your hand it is more sensitive to the
movement.
With your foot it feels like a couple of mm between bite point and fully engaged,i find it difficult to have such a light foot.
I do have the Barnet type uprated clutch spring fitted as well.
My clutch pedal has about 4 inch of travel and about 10mm of that is operation half way up the range.
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sonic
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:39 PM |
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Hello Stuart G
Have you got any pics of the mod?
Sounds like exactly what i was thinking
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 09:54 PM |
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reverse clutch arm
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stuart_g
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| posted on 1/3/09 at 10:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sonic
Hello Stuart G
Have you got any pics of the mod?
Sounds like exactly what i was thinking
I don't have a pic but I will take one for you tomorrow and post it here.
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nitram38
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| posted on 2/3/09 at 06:53 AM |
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I have used a "pull" wilwood slave and a 0.75 wilwood master cylinder on the Motaleira. (wilwood pedal set)
I removed the freeplay from the clutch arm. This is only there to help your hand on a bike gain some mechanical advantage before getting to the
biting point. I added another lever arm with 67mm hole centre from the clutch pivot. The original arm is left as it attaches to the return spring.The
slave has a travel of 34mm.
My clutch pedal is quite soft but has a long travel. I hate heavy clutches in traffic.
Not had a chance to drive it yet. I need to setup my gear indicator/veypor before I put the driveshafts in.
Different engine, but might give you some ideas
 
Description
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[Edited on 2/3/2009 by nitram38]
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BenB
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| posted on 2/3/09 at 11:03 AM |
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I ditched the bike clutch MC and replaced it with a random brake MC that STM had knocking around....
Works very nicely (although I think I've fried my clutch. again).....
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stuart_g
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| posted on 2/3/09 at 02:41 PM |
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Here is the pic.
Not brilliant but you get the idea.
 
Rescued attachment Clutch lever on engine..JPG
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sonic
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| posted on 2/3/09 at 06:31 PM |
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Thanks for all the pic's guy's that gives me some ideas.
Thanks again
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