wicket
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:11 PM |
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Engine cuts out when hot
1600 std X-flow, DGV carb and std mechnical fuel pump.
The engine get very hot & cuts out when in slow moving traffic and it's been suggested that the fuel pump is getting to hot and causing fuel
vapourisation.
To overcome this the suggestion is too replace the mechanical pump with an electric pump close to the fuel tank.
If this is the way to go what pressure pump should I use & do I also need a pressure regulator?
Any views appreciated.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:21 PM |
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Never had any problems with my Luego 1600 when it ran on distributor and weber carb using a Facet? pump and a Filter King regulator . It didn't
have a fuel return just the return pipe from the carb plugged.
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wicket
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:26 PM |
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Rusty what pressure pump and regulator did you have?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wicket
1600 std X-flow, DGV carb and std mechnical fuel pump.
The engine get very hot & cuts out when in slow moving traffic and it's been suggested that the fuel pump is getting to hot and causing fuel
vapourisation.
To overcome this the suggestion is too replace the mechanical pump with an electric pump close to the fuel tank.
If this is the way to go what pressure pump should I use & do I also need a pressure regulator?
Any views appreciated.
Unlikely to be a fuel vapourisation in UK weather unless you have a really restrictive filter on the suction side ---
Do you have fibre/plastic insulator spacer fitted between the carb and manifold ? and one between the pump a block ?
Check the fuel tank is properly vented --- not building up a partial vacuum as the engine pumps fuel from it.
If you do could be something else --- coil can break down if over heated -- check if you have a Ford ballasted coil that a ballast resistor is fitted
and correctly wired.
Other thing you want to find out is why the engine is running hot, check the ignition isn't too retarded and try drill a couple of 1/8"
holes in the thermostat
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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UncleFista
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:39 PM |
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We never had any problems with a Facet solid state pump on our xflow.
No need for a regulator, but you'll need to make a blanking plate for the block 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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nick205
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 09:58 PM |
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I had a similar problem after reusing the coil off my 2.0 Pinto Sierra donor - replaced the coil, problem solved.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 10:06 PM |
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I can support what britishtrident has suggested - tank venting and the coil are the prime suspects. I'd also check that everything is set up
correctly - points, timing, and so on.
The only other thing is if the fuel pipe is running close to something hot - but that's almost impossible on a x-flow.
Until I changed to bike carbs I successfully ran a Weber DGV carb from the original mechanical fuel pump, on a mildy tuned 1660cc x-flow. This is in
effect what was fitted to the Mk1 XR2. This should work unless you add some significant tuning bits.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 9/12/08 at 10:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by wicket
Rusty what pressure pump and regulator did you have?
Facet solid state pump and a Filter King regulator . You may find if you can reduce the under bonnet temperature it may help ? Found that cutting some
vent holes at the rear of my bonnet dropped the coolant temperature even at this time of year . Have also cut a couple at the rear of the nose cone
(behind the radiator ) which also helps.. The fan used to run all the time in traffic before , even on the hottest of days this year the fans only
run for a short time . Try running the car with the bonnet off, if the engine doesn't stall under bonnet temperature may be the cause?
[Edited on 9/12/08 by rusty nuts]
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wicket
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| posted on 10/12/08 at 10:10 AM |
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Thanks for all your comments.
The fibre spacers are in place, the tank vents OK, the coil was new 2000 miles ago so I think it should be OK & it has standard inline plastic
filter.
Going to check points, timing etc and I am currently putting some vents in the bonnet, so I will see how it goes before doing any further changes.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/12/08 at 01:32 PM |
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You should only have a screen filter on the suction side of the pump, paper filters should go between the pump and the carb.
I would suspect the coil new or not ---- Ford Xflo coils were not 12v and require a ballast ressistor to drop the voltage down, On Ford tintops
this ressistor was normally built into the wiring loom. If you haven't wired in an external ballast resistor a Ford coil will over heat.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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wicket
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| posted on 10/12/08 at 09:05 PM |
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Here's the inline filter fitted between the tank and the pump, is this OK 'britishtrident'?
The coil is a 12v so should not need a ballast resistor.
 
Rescued attachment Filter.jpg
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 10/12/08 at 09:34 PM |
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Might be an idea to fit the filter between the pump and the carb.
Might be difficult for the pump to suck through it at low revs.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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Michael
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| posted on 11/12/08 at 09:49 PM |
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I have had a Rotar Arm Fail when it gets hot resulting in engine cutting out, and failing to start.
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