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Author: Subject: R1 Baffle Plate
Dan

posted on 17/11/08 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
R1 Baffle Plate

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 06 r1 motor with baffle plate.
Iam after confimation on said item should it have these half moon cut outs still in place?
As others that i have looked at do not have these. Any help please

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001Ben

posted on 17/11/08 at 04:12 PM Reply With Quote
I have an 01 R1 and it has half moon cut outs in the baffle plate.
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stuart_g

posted on 17/11/08 at 04:25 PM Reply With Quote
I also have half moon's in place on mine. I believe they are there to stop oil going up through the baffle plate holes but allow oil to return back to the sump.


R1 5VY sump baffle
R1 5VY sump baffle


[Edited on 17/11/08 by stuart_g]

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jimgiblett

posted on 17/11/08 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
IMHO if the material is aluminium those butterflies should be removed . They must be prone to vibration fatigue. I personally have seen two ali baffle plates which have fallen to pieces (one blade and one R1) and there have been numerous reports of others fracturing and trashing the motor.

If you have to have a baffle plate keep it simple (just nicely radiused holes and edges) or make it from steel.

- Jim

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adithorp

posted on 17/11/08 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
I took them out of mine. When the engine wasn't fully warm I had problems with the oil not returning through them fast enough at high revs. Problem stopped after I removed them.

adrian





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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hobbsy

posted on 17/11/08 at 07:37 PM Reply With Quote
What Jim said.

I don't like the look of those butterflies.

The allbikes baffle which was in place in my 5PW R1 engined Fury was starting to fail when I looked at it (immediately after I got it as I knew about Jim G's experiences).

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Dan

posted on 17/11/08 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks all seems that some leave them in and some remove them.
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stuart_g

posted on 17/11/08 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
I believe there are different thicknesses of baffle plate. If you have the thinner you are also supposed to drill the crank web and attach it on the right hand side to stop it breaking at the thin part, the thicker (pictured above) you do not need to do anything with.

Interesting comment about the oil not returning quick enough adithorp. Has removing them stopped the low oil warning light coming on at any time? I may remove mine over winter if it has.

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adithorp

posted on 17/11/08 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
The low level light used to come on if I was either thrashing it or at sustained high speed (80mph for 10mins on motorway). It was worse if not hot. I was advised to take the bits out. Not sure how this helps/works though as the level float is above the baffle level. I also increased the oil "over-fill" slightly. Now it only comes on if I thrash it when cold. It's a good "Don't thrash it when cold light!".

I also attached mine to the web as mentioned. I didn't like the risk of vibration breaking it.

adrian





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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