andygtt
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| posted on 14/1/20 at 08:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
I haven't used a single scroll, but let me guess that it was a Garret supplier as garret don't do a twin scroll in the relevant size for
my V6.
I believe it makes a significant difference, so much so that I wouldn't even consider a single scroll even though they are cheaper. its to stop
scavenge from each bank which can occur regardless of manifold being equal length or not.
I run the turbo one side of the engine so the other banks exhaust goes a lot further under the car... despite this is spools incredibly well, much
less lag than when it had tiny twin turbos on it.
Thanks.
No TBF it's a Borg Warner/Holset supplier.
They said equal length headers is a must for twin scroll to be worth while .
It’s not a widely shared view, and I def don’t agree. There are other advantages to twin scroll with uneven headers, spool being one, wastegates
control being another.
I’m actually not a fan of equal length headers on a turbo car, I prefer to get the gasses into the turbo as fast and short as possible (without silly
bends) to help spool, Some big manufactures and tuning companies agree.... some like Audi etc think Your turbo company are right and equal length is
important.
On my engine package I’m confident moving away from a twin scroll would increase lag... mines a T4 housing btw as I missed answering that earlier.
Just to add I don’t personally believe peak power would be significantly effected for twin or single scroll... it’s low down and spool that I believe
would suffer if I went single scroll.
[Edited on 14/1/20 by andygtt]
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 3/8/20 at 10:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
quote:
Originally posted by Oddified
quote:
Originally posted by RWD Focus
Mine won't be getting turbo fitted.
You never know, you might get the itch after a while! lol 
Ian
especially when you find the engines are good for over 700bhp reliably turbo'd 
a light flow of the head is highly recommended, allows the much more power at less boost, stock noble runs 0.7bar for 352bhp... my engine made 480bhp
on low boost 0.6bar.... I had flowed heads and cams and I don't think the cams add anything significant, so much so that my latest low power
engine i'm trying it with flowed heads and stock cams and im still targeting over 750bhp with this spec engine.
Upgraded valve strings can be bought from Piper... or any reputable noble specialist such as Mountune.
Sounds like you have been collecting all the right bits ... I also recommend single turbo, back to back testing on a hub dyne with the identical
internals the twins made 100bhp less than my single.
I'm having my duratec V6 engine done and just waiting on the vernier pullys before it comes home, its had everything and more.
I'm on year 3 of a 10 year project to have a ST220 twin turbo.
Look on FB at mondeo ST220 Twin turbo.
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 3/8/20 at 10:07 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
quote:
Originally posted by Oddified
quote:
Originally posted by RWD Focus
Mine won't be getting turbo fitted.
You never know, you might get the itch after a while! lol
Ian
especially when you find the engines are good for over 700bhp reliably turbo'd
a light flow of the head is highly recommended, allows the much more power at less boost, stock noble runs 0.7bar for 352bhp... my engine made 480bhp
on low boost 0.6bar.... I had flowed heads and cams and I don't think the cams add anything significant, so much so that my latest low power
engine i'm trying it with flowed heads and stock cams and im still targeting over 750bhp with this spec engine.
Upgraded valve strings can be bought from Piper... or any reputable noble specialist such as Mountune.
Sounds like you have been collecting all the right bits ... I also recommend single turbo, back to back testing on a hub dyne with the identical
internals the twins made 100bhp less than my single.
I'm having my duratec V6 engine done and just waiting on the vernier pullys before it comes home, its had everything and more.
I'm on year 3 of a 10 year project to have a ST220 twin turbo.
Look on FB at mondeo ST220 Twin turbo.
https://m.facebook.com/St220twinturbo/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 10:10 AM |
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A really tidy St.
I left mine sitting for so long so it wasn’t worth bringing back up to scratch
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sdh2903
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 10:32 AM |
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Looks a lovely build. Ive always changed my cars at 12 - 24 month intervals but the only one I kept longer and the one I always regretted selling was
my perf blue st220. Did a lot of work to get it immaculate and then sold it 
I really dont know why it got under my skin so much, but it could just do everything brilliantly.
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 10:48 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Looks a lovely build. Ive always changed my cars at 12 - 24 month intervals but the only one I kept longer and the one I always regretted selling was
my perf blue st220. Did a lot of work to get it immaculate and then sold it
I really dont know why it got under my skin so much, but it could just do everything brilliantly.
I love the car and its looks, my son had the ST200 so that's why I got this.
I spent quite a bit on it, BC coilovers, induction, Roose hoses and loads more, it was when a ferrari left me standing I thought it was very
underpowered at 224bhp.
I'm planning on 2 x g25-550 turbos with a stand alone ECU.
Oh and keeping the exterior original.
Is it worth the cost, no probably not but its something to get out of bed and work for lol
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andygtt
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 11:02 AM |
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Id consider larger turbos than that based on your power goals, 25's will get to around 550bhp, you wont go past 600 with them.
the GT28's will go to 700bhp... but id consider a single turbo as you chioce of turbo then opens up significantly and you can better match the
compressor maps. The BW turbo I ran before would easy do 750bhp and go to 8000rpm plus it spooled very linear and gave a huge power band... all for
less than £1k.
Probably easier to package a single turbo in a ST220 as well
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
Id consider larger turbos than that based on your power goals, 25's will get to around 550bhp, you wont go past 600 with them.
the GT28's will go to 700bhp... but id consider a single turbo as you chioce of turbo then opens up significantly and you can better match the
compressor maps. The BW turbo I ran before would easy do 750bhp and go to 8000rpm plus it spooled very linear and gave a huge power band... all for
less than £1k.
Probably easier to package a single turbo in a ST220 as well
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
The engine is a 3L V6 which means 550 BHP per 1.5L bank, and with them being small, they spool early.
I'm trying to get more performance at all ranges, im even thinking of installing 2 x turbosmart ALV40's
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mondeoST220
quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
Id consider larger turbos than that based on your power goals, 25's will get to around 550bhp, you wont go past 600 with them.
the GT28's will go to 700bhp... but id consider a single turbo as you chioce of turbo then opens up significantly and you can better match the
compressor maps. The BW turbo I ran before would easy do 750bhp and go to 8000rpm plus it spooled very linear and gave a huge power band... all for
less than £1k.
Probably easier to package a single turbo in a ST220 as well
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
The engine is a 3L V6 which means 550 BHP per 1.5L bank, and with them being small, they spool early.
I'm trying to get more performance at all ranges, im even thinking of installing 2 x turbosmart ALV40's
A GT25 turbo won't do 550bhp on it's own!
Andy's quote of 550bhp is total BHP for twin GT25s on a 3ltr V6.
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andygtt
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:16 PM |
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A pair of GT25's will do 550bhp absolute max not each, I've seen them on a lot of nobles.
There is a lot of choice for singles that will do 3.0L (thousands of 5-7L V8s with twin turbos), as long as you go divided housing there is no
advantage to twins... a properly spec'd single will spool earlier than GT25's if that's what you really want.... My car used to be a
600bhp twin 28 turbos, i then developed the single turbo to improve it.
I've seen you mention 8000rpm target on you FB page and mention 740bhp.... thats pretty much what i used to run, it made monster torque low down
and made more power than a stock ST220 everywhere even off boost, it wasn't a laggy underivable monster.
Even though i run a single turbo, i actually run two tial 40mm external wastegates as i have a divided housing.
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
I've seen you mention 8000rpm target on you FB page and mention 740bhp.... thats pretty much what i used to run,
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
What crank pulley do you run,and what size alternator pulley please?
My alternator is currently pushed near its max RPM at 7100rpm rev limit,so looking for info on allowing me to run higher RPM on my new engine,thanks
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:27 PM |
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The devided intake is another option ive been considering, I was thinking of having a billet system made to the spec, but thats in another couple of
years, for now its the AWD thats giving headaches
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andygtt
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 12:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
I've seen you mention 8000rpm target on you FB page and mention 740bhp.... thats pretty much what i used to run,
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
What crank pulley do you run,and what size alternator pulley please?
My alternator is currently pushed near its max RPM at 7100rpm rev limit,so looking for info on allowing me to run higher RPM on my new engine,thanks
You can buy an under drive pulley from TTV, in fact i ordered a spare one yesterday
the noble alternator is 73mm with the crank pulley being 165mm, it used to kill the alternators at 7000rpm (15800rpm) hence the under drive pulley
was developed.
Im actually moving across to a new more modern Jag alternator that's also more readily available and thus cheaper (I also have two brand new
units so made sense)... its designed to run a lot higher rpm (18000rpm stock) so the pulley is only 63mm... I've been redesigning the belt in
the last few weeks.... with the under drive crank pulley i can rev the engine to 9000rpm without killing the alternator.
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 04:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
I've seen you mention 8000rpm target on you FB page and mention 740bhp.... thats pretty much what i used to run,
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
What crank pulley do you run,and what size alternator pulley please?
My alternator is currently pushed near its max RPM at 7100rpm rev limit,so looking for info on allowing me to run higher RPM on my new engine,thanks
You can buy an under drive pulley from TTV, in fact i ordered a spare one yesterday
the noble alternator is 73mm with the crank pulley being 165mm, it used to kill the alternators at 7000rpm (15800rpm) hence the under drive pulley
was developed.
Im actually moving across to a new more modern Jag alternator that's also more readily available and thus cheaper (I also have two brand new
units so made sense)... its designed to run a lot higher rpm (18000rpm stock) so the pulley is only 63mm... I've been redesigning the belt in
the last few weeks.... with the under drive crank pulley i can rev the engine to 9000rpm without killing the alternator.
Thanks.
How much is the TTV pulley?
I'm running the standard Jag crank pulley,which is 6.5inches,my Denso alternator can run upto 18000rpm,that's got a 2.5inch pulley on
it.
I'm going to try and fit a bigger alternator over the winter,as I'm struggling with idle voltage with the small Denso unit.
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andygtt
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 06:23 PM |
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If your using the Jag then whilst it will fit I think it will out the belt out of alignment (5mm or so closer to the engine), ive managed to use it on
the Jag purely as I moved all the aux to suit my mondeo crank pulley.
They don't list one for the Jag so best to ask them.... The mondeo one is around £185.
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 08:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
If your using the Jag then whilst it will fit I think it will out the belt out of alignment (5mm or so closer to the engine), ive managed to use it on
the Jag purely as I moved all the aux to suit my mondeo crank pulley.
They don't list one for the Jag so best to ask them.... The mondeo one is around £185.
Ok thanks
I dont use any of the Jag aux parts,I'm only running the small Denso alt on custom brackets due to a lack of space, so the belt being 5mm out
will not be a issue.
ATM I only run a 3 groove belt,because thats what's on the alt.
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40inches
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| posted on 4/8/20 at 08:36 PM |
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I used a 75amp Denso alternator. only around 25mm larger dia. than the 40anp
 
Description
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mondeoST220
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 04:53 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
I've seen you mention 8000rpm target on you FB page and mention 740bhp.... thats pretty much what i used to run,
[Edited on 4/8/20 by andygtt]
What crank pulley do you run,and what size alternator pulley please?
My alternator is currently pushed near its max RPM at 7100rpm rev limit,so looking for info on allowing me to run higher RPM on my new engine,thanks
Remember your not constantly running at 8k unless your a track car so the odd time you do go over the limit won't make any difference as the
Alternator won't have time to overheat.
The Mondeo pulleys are £220 inclusive of vat from fords.
I won't be running the Airton pump so I'll need a pully to replace that.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 05:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used a 75amp Denso alternator. only around 25mm larger dia. than the 40anp
Description
Yeah that's what I'm going to go for over winter
I've got a piece of chassis I need to modify though to get that in that I added when I turboed the R1 engine,hence only fitting the tiny
Denso.
Can you remember what it came off?
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andygtt
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 06:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mondeoST220
Remember your not constantly running at 8k unless your a track car so the odd time you do go over the limit won't make any difference as the
Alternator won't have time to overheat.
I only wish that was correct.
The Nobles is reliable stock and with the rev limit raised 300rpm on the road... however take it to the track with the rev limit over 7000rpm and you
wont make it till lunchtime as you will have fried the alternator (regulator dies i believe)... in fact only a month ago we had a meet and two noble
fried their alternators due to this reason, one of them was a 2 day old alternator as it had failed shortly after his latest dyno that upped the rev
limit a little.
Of cause it does depend on the alternator... the Nobles use a ford alternator but it's not actually the ST220 one, that 'might' be
able to take being overrev'd. I would check tho, did Dennis change the alternator on his race car?
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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Oddified
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 07:57 AM |
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I use the St220 alternator, but i removed the 'smart' reg and wired in/converted it to an external conventional alternator reg. It's
been round to 7500rpm many many times , no issues so far on standard pulleys.
I left the alternator in the standard position, but everything else is removed from the front of the engine so there's just a short belt from
the crank straight to the alternator with an idler/tensioner half way.
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40inches
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 09:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used a 75amp Denso alternator. only around 25mm larger dia. than the 40anp
Description
Yeah that's what I'm going to go for over winter
I've got a piece of chassis I need to modify though to get that in that I added when I turboed the R1 engine,hence only fitting the tiny
Denso.
Can you remember what it came off?
It was from a 2007 Daihatsu Terios 1.5 Petrol, second hand ones are around £40-£50.
You need to check the output, some had a 50amp alternator.
I would message starterman on here for a new one?
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CosKev3
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| posted on 5/8/20 at 01:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
I used a 75amp Denso alternator. only around 25mm larger dia. than the 40anp
Description
Yeah that's what I'm going to go for over winter
I've got a piece of chassis I need to modify though to get that in that I added when I turboed the R1 engine,hence only fitting the tiny
Denso.
Can you remember what it came off?
It was from a 2007 Daihatsu Terios 1.5 Petrol, second hand ones are around £40-£50.
You need to check the output, some had a 50amp alternator.
I would message starterman on here for a new one?
Thanks
Idle voltage is my issue,with the Pierburg water pump flat out and my rad fan on it will maintain circa 12.5volts,but put lights on and its dropping
under 12volts.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 6/8/20 at 09:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by andygtt
If your using the Jag then whilst it will fit I think it will out the belt out of alignment (5mm or so closer to the engine), ive managed to use it on
the Jag purely as I moved all the aux to suit my mondeo crank pulley.
They don't list one for the Jag so best to ask them.... The mondeo one is around £185.
Can you let me know the diameter of that TTV pulley please
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andygtt
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| posted on 6/8/20 at 02:12 PM |
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130mm, but It sounds like it’s going to cause you issues at idle as it drops the ratio Quite a bit
Andy
please redefine your limits.
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