tadltd
|
| posted on 18/12/05 at 09:47 PM |
|
|
Having worked as a cooling systems engineer prior to starting TAD, I now have oodles of experience in designing and engineering cooling systems that
work. If you drive a Ford B-car (i.e. Fiesta size) you'll see some of my work under the bonnet.
In fact, if you take a quick look under the bonnets of most other cars you'll see a similar set-up, i.e. hot coolant into the top of the
radiator. Motorbikes use the same set-up.
Trust me, I know what I'm talking about.
[Edited on 18/12/05 by tadltd]
Best Regards,
Steve.
www.turnerautosport.com
|
|
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 18/12/05 at 10:47 PM |
|
|
Now you mention it, I do recall the top hose in some of my cars being the feed. I'm sure there must be a logical reason but I am no systems
engineer (just a graphic designer) so I will take your word for it Steve 
So if I simply reverse the rad connections, do I just run the heater in parallel across the pipes at the rad end? I am a little concerned about the
flow taking the path of least resistance (presumeably the radiator) and leaving me with cold feet!
*edit* I think I understand the most efficient way for the heater plumbing now but correct me if I'm wrong....
The outlet from the block goes to a tee - one side to a thermostat and the other to the heater valve. This will ensure that most of the available heat
during the warmup phase is directed through the heater. When the thermostat opens fully, most of the flow will then go through the rad but there
should still be sufficient flow through the heater due to the pressure differential in the outlet tee caused by the thermostat.
Am I close? 
[Edited on 18-12-05 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 11:22 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
Now you mention it, I do recall the top hose in some of my cars being the feed.
[Edited on 18-12-05 by RazMan]
Hot water enters the radiator at the top and when it cools down, it becomes denser so sinks to the bottom.
In days way way gone this the principle how car cooling systems worked since water pumps were not fitted - siphoning action.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 11:49 AM |
|
|
Got it now - my O level physics knowledge must have deserted me (was a long time ago though  )
Here's my latest revision taking all the advice into account...
 
Rescued attachment Water Pump diagram3.jpg
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
02GF74
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 11:54 AM |
|
|
I don;t wantto be a pedantic git but the take off to the heater should come beforethe thermostat. Usuallyu there is a take off on the engine block or
some other means.
Doing it like that will mena you have hot air before the thermostat opens... not a big deal but nicer in winter.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 12:18 PM |
|
|
But isn't that the idea? Maybe my drawing isn't that clear - it is meant to look as though it is tee'd of first. If the heater was
plumbed into the same feed as the rad it will only get heat at the same time. Otherwise I might as well just run both in parallel with each other - it
would shorten the plumbing though.
[Edited on 19-12-05 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tadltd
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 01:41 PM |
|
|
You should have heater inlet and outlet spigots on the engine block, why don't you just use those?
The idea of the heater being in the engine cooling loop is to give you hot air more quickly because it will receive the coolant before the radiator,
i.e. prior to the 'stat opening.
Best Regards,
Steve.
www.turnerautosport.com
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 01:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by tadltd
You should have heater inlet and outlet spigots on the engine block, why don't you just use those?
The V6 Duratec has a heater outlet on the block which is in the same casting as the engine outlet. I don't think there is a built-in thermostat
(damned if I can find it anyway) so I will have to put an in-line housing in one of the hoses. The heater return usually goes directly to the water
pump which I have now removed, so I thought a tee into the rad return would save on plumbing.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
tadltd
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 01:55 PM |
|
|
Didn't you retain the water pump housing, though? To block the hole? I guess not if there's no spigot for the heater return?
Best Regards,
Steve.
www.turnerautosport.com
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/12/05 at 02:20 PM |
|
|
No, the water pump is a completely independent unit on the V6. It is connected only by hoses to the rest of the engine and even the thermostat is an
in-line jobby. It was therefore a simple case of unbolting it and removing the pump, pulley & belt - tidies up the engine bay too.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
