dave_424
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 12:33 PM |
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Self tune shouldn't change your ignition table unless you have knock input. The tuner studio self tune is really only used when you have a good
tune already, so I've been told anyway. Also needs careful setting up to determine how much and how frequent it makes changes. If you are using
self tune, and your ECU isn't getting a correct AFR when compared against your gauge, it might be adjusting everything too lean or rich but the
ECU thinks it's correct. I would possibly turn self tune off and see if you still overheat
Dave
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 05:54 PM |
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ok been scratching my head all day and this is where i am
 
Description
any comments ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:19 PM |
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Just taken it for a quick run and can't get the revs to die back , constantly running above 1500 rpm and only very slow to die back to there .
I'm guessing too much advance low down ?
also car is still boiling up so will have to get a new thermostat and try again . it shouldn't be hitting the danger paint while running under
light load on a cool evening . like I say the rad is hot as the fan is running but it can't be circulating properly
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:20 PM |
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oh and it's not cutting out today. I started by tightening the injection pump contacts so maybe it was that
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:26 PM |
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fast idle or revs not returning is a throttle body problem or air leak, check the balance of your throttles at idle AND light throttle.
Make sure your throttles SNAP shut when you blip the throttle peddle
Incorrect timing will not make the engine rev at idle IF the throttles are setup correctly, up to a point more timing will bring the idle up by a
small amount but thats it.
Incorrect fuelling and timing plus overheating = knackered engine, be careful.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
fast idle or revs not returning is a throttle body problem or air leak, check the balance of your throttles at idle AND light throttle.
Make sure your throttles SNAP shut when you blip the throttle peddle
Incorrect timing will not make the engine rev at idle IF the throttles are setup correctly, up to a point more timing will bring the idle up by a
small amount but thats it.
Incorrect fuelling and timing plus overheating = knackered engine, be careful.
checked the balance last week and it was fine , will see if the bodies have dislodged due to vibration thanks
and yes trying to be careful........ fuelling seems better now but will be better once I get the overheating sorted as it must be something
fundamental in the cooling system .
thanks
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:43 PM |
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No obvious air leaks and TBs nice and firm so that's a baffler
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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BaileyPerformance
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 06:48 PM |
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have you checked the throttle for balance at idle and at light throttle?
if you are using motorbike TBs the link springs can do funny things causing the TBs to go out of balance at light throttle.
Just to get you up and running aim for 13AFR everywhere, you can lean off when you have the cooling system sorted.
Your advance table is wrong but not that far off to cause overheating, its normally far too much retard that causes overheating and also a hot
exhaust.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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dave_424
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 07:19 PM |
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You need to change the AFR table load on the left hand side to 0-100%, looks like it still has the scale for speed density.
What are your afr's like? On your gauge not in megasquirt. Are they around where your AFR table wants it? Can't you just remove the
thermostat and try that?
Dave
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 09:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by dave_424
You need to change the AFR table load on the left hand side to 0-100%, looks like it still has the scale for speed density.
What are your afr's like? On your gauge not in megasquirt. Are they around where your AFR table wants it? Can't you just remove the
thermostat and try that?
Dave
Hi Dave
Ever the font of practical advice , thanks.
Yes I noticed the discrepancy after I posted the picture and adjusted the scale on the left to similar values to the vr and spark tables .
I took some time to calibrate the LC1 and did find an anomaly in the scale i'd set at 1-5 volts instead of 0-5 and the gauge reads very similar
values to the Tuner studio gauge. as to actually following the afr table ....loosely .
Thermostat is sealed (AFAIK) into a canister separate from the engine with three outlets
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 10:11 PM |
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I know that you have had this engine together and running fine, but are the 3 outlets connected to the right places in the cooling system? If so, then
can't you remove it and use some pipe and clamps to connect the respectable pipes?
If your engine is getting boiling hot, then so should your radiator. It should be very very hot. If it is just warm/hot then possible that the
thermostat isn't opening all the way or not at all.
Dave
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Valtra
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| posted on 16/6/13 at 10:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
have you checked the throttle for balance at idle and at light throttle?
if you are using motorbike TBs the link springs can do funny things causing the TBs to go out of balance at light throttle.
Just to get you up and running aim for 13AFR everywhere, you can lean off when you have the cooling system sorted.
Your advance table is wrong but not that far off to cause overheating, its normally far too much retard that causes overheating and also a hot
exhaust.
thanks
I checked the balance at low idle , I could screw the stopper in and try it then
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/6/13 at 02:40 PM |
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This thread in another Forum might help with the ignition curve.
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2443
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/6/13 at 03:07 PM |
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Ref idle rpm and speed to drop - i had issues with bike carbs. 2 causes;
1. butterfly wasnt closing properly due to dirt in the body and varnish type deposit around the butterfly,
2. return springs too week. New spring made a big difference.
(Interestingly i also had issues with the throttle body butterfly on tin top some time later, this time the varnish type deposits were sealing the
throttle body too well and causing engine to die at junctions. RAC man told me how to fix it when i had a flat battery at an airport once.)
I also had issues with carb tops not being sealed but i guess that wont affect you.
Re mapping - i was kindly given a map be somebody with a similarish set up and it got me started.
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Valtra
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| posted on 18/6/13 at 11:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
This thread in another Forum might help with the ignition curve.
http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2443
Thanks , yes Guy knows all there is to know about the twink , and has given me free advice recently . Those advance figures are likely to be spot on
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 18/6/13 at 11:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Ref idle rpm and speed to drop - i had issues with bike carbs. 2 causes;
1. butterfly wasnt closing properly due to dirt in the body and varnish type deposit around the butterfly,
2. return springs too week. New spring made a big difference.
(Interestingly i also had issues with the throttle body butterfly on tin top some time later, this time the varnish type deposits were sealing the
throttle body too well and causing engine to die at junctions. RAC man told me how to fix it when i had a flat battery at an airport once.)
I also had issues with carb tops not being sealed but i guess that wont affect you.
Re mapping - i was kindly given a map be somebody with a similarish set up and it got me started.
yes could be the butterflies sticking a tad; the bike the tbs came from had open and close cables working together . they seemed free enough but
I'll check they are closing sharply
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 19/6/13 at 10:14 PM |
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Got my new Thermostat canister today and fitted it . started up and brought it up to thermostat opening temp , this should now have released any air
trapped in the bottom hose so that once cold tomorrow I can top it up again and it should be good to go . Incidentally the car idled happily once
I'd tickled it to start and settle The afr gauge sat at about 13 settling back around 14 once warm . The problem I had with the revs not dying
back seems to be down to the throttle not slapping shut properly every time , progress at least
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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snapper
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| posted on 20/6/13 at 05:40 AM |
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A while back in the thread you said you had changed timing belt
Is your cam timing correct?
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Valtra
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| posted on 20/6/13 at 07:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snapper
A while back in the thread you said you had changed timing belt
Is your cam timing correct?
Yes seems to be, all the markers line up correctly and the engine idles as sweet as a nut once it's properly awake .
Thanks .
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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| posted on 8/7/13 at 05:09 PM |
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Quick update
Thermostat fitted and carefully bled ....but despite it being fairly cool here today due to cloud round the wash (not a euphemism) had to stop for 10
mins on the way to MOT to let it cool down . Passed MOT and now taxed and legal , my friend at MOT station suggested the water pump impeller could be
slipping on the shaft so another £15 to ebay for a new one to eliminate that possibility.
On a good note car ran ok on Microsquirt with occasional drops to lean on closed throttle but picked back up without cutting out . Pulls well on
open throttle and sounds very crisp , just need another spring to close the butterflies as revs keep running away (bike had a closer cable as well as
opener)
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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