beqa16v
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| posted on 7/5/12 at 05:23 PM |
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OK fitted the pump and it works fine. The throttle response improved, its now perfect on a wormed up engine. The engine needs much less choke to work
on cold as well. Return to idle is good also.
I still have to drive the car to see how it goes but I think this was the right way to go. The oil did not smell fuel as well. So yeah, looks like at
least most of my problems are gone with the installation of the bike pump.
Thing that is not right is that the idle increases as the engine warms up. It reaches about 1200 at 80 degrees Celsius. Also it falls too low after
return from revving and than gradually builds up. Any ideas in this regard?
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beqa16v
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| posted on 11/5/12 at 05:58 PM |
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here is a video from the startup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEBciIaQ4Jo
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jacko
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| posted on 11/5/12 at 06:36 PM |
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Are the slides in the carbs nice and smooth sliding up and down ? not sticking
Jacko
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jacko
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| posted on 11/5/12 at 06:42 PM |
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Iv seen the video but do you have any photos of your car we can look at ? it look very interesting
Jacko
By the way if it was me i would have the same length trumpets on all 4 carbs it should will make a difference
[Edited on 11/5/12 by jacko]
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beqa16v
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| posted on 11/5/12 at 06:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Iv seen the video but do you have any photos of your car we can look at ? it look very interesting
Jacko
By the way if it was me i would have the same length trumpets on all 4 carbs it should will make a difference
[Edited on 11/5/12 by jacko]
The slides are fine. They all move up and return freely. They respond to engine revs well from what i could observe. Can this idle issue be an air
leak?
Yes the trumpets should be of equal length. These ones came with carbs so I did not have much of a choice.
At the moment we are restoring the original fiber glass body kit. The car utilizes ground effect and therefore has quite complicated sidepods.
The inspiration for Estonia 21 was Lotus 79 ground effect car. Actualy E21 has exactly the same rear suspension design. If you compare the pictures
they are identical (other than lotus being much better built).
This is how it looked when I bought it. No engine, no radiators, pedals, front calipers and a lot of other things. Many parts were custom built
if you go through this thread you will find many pics of the car http://www.lada-vfts.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=6380&st=0
[Edited on 11/5/12 by beqa16v]
[Edited on 11/5/12 by beqa16v]
[Edited on 11/5/12 by beqa16v]
[Edited on 11/5/12 by beqa16v]
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jacko
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| posted on 12/5/12 at 04:03 PM |
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Nice car and a great project keep us informed how you get on with the carbs and also the car 
Jacko
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beqa16v
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| posted on 21/5/12 at 06:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Nice car and a great project keep us informed how you get on with the carbs and also the car
Jacko
Thanks. Have not started the car since then, we are dealing with the bodykit at the moment. It needs some restoration and painting.
[Edited on 21/5/12 by beqa16v]
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beqa16v
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| posted on 10/6/12 at 06:32 AM |
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Hi Again guys. Needles in sliders have free play. The move up and down inside sliders at quite some extent. Is this normal or are my carbs missing
some parts?
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beqa16v
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| posted on 19/7/12 at 06:34 AM |
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Installed a racing camshaft which I was offered for quite cheap. The owner did not know the exact specs but after some measurements we came up to the
following conclusions: around 315deg; intake lift 11.4; exhaust lift 10.8.
It turned out to be a quite wicked cam, the car wont idle with this cam even with the choke on. It simply dies straight away not even stumbling. On a
stock cam the idle was fine though. The idle screws were 2.5 turns out.
I have resolved the issue with bogging at 4000 by blocking main and pilot air jets, the car revs all the way to stratosphere without any bogging).
Then took a car to a hill climb event just to test it. However I could not even run properly as the flywheel bolts broke leaving the flywheel detached
from the engine. It is fixed now.
The question here is, how should I make this cam idle at least at 1500? I have turned the air screws and they are 4 turns out now, however I have not
started the engine yet.
I have 160 main jets on these 38mm Keihin E carbs and two 0.5 millimeter washers under needles. Do 160 mains sound safe for the cam given the
displacement of the engine is 1600 cc?
pics from the hill climb
video of the test run. It was in third gear
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=spWsA_0YTfk
[Edited on 19/7/12 by beqa16v]
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beqa16v
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| posted on 21/7/12 at 09:55 PM |
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Here are today's vids guys
Removed washers from under needles because the sparks were terribly black. After some running the electrodes became brown but their surrounding is
still black
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcsE5_BqHbQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gH4RoFV-NpU
[Edited on 21/7/12 by beqa16v]
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beqa16v
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| posted on 14/10/12 at 06:39 PM |
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hi again guys
some news concerning my car:
took it to the track, it was awsome. Its so sharp and grippy even without proper toe and camber settings. Its a bit hard to be precise during
downshifts as you have to simply find gears which makes corner entry a bit tricky to manage. Its also hard to spot those entry points as well but i
loved the exits when you keep constantly adjusting the steering wheel to keep it pointing the right direction.
Issues with carbs were solved by blocking the air jets but with 160 mains it is quite rich. It pulls without any popping in first and second but from
5000rpm in fourth and sometimes even in third at top rpms it is popping from the exhaust and loosing acceleration. Is it really rich mixture symptom?
Doesnt engine require more fuel at higher gears? It should get better if its rich right? Are 160s too big for blocked air jets?
Also 4th carb is richer than the other three. Can it be syncronization related, or something else?
Carbs are 38mm Keihins and the engine is 1600cc 8V counter flow with ported head, headers and 315degree cam. 11.5/10.8 lift.
[Edited on 14/10/12 by beqa16v]
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beqa16v
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| posted on 15/5/13 at 11:10 AM |
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Ok guys here is a video of me driving on a skidpad. It was fun. The car is very nimble and quick
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYNGXbq3xS0
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mark chandler
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| posted on 15/5/13 at 12:21 PM |
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Loving the way you can test your car in a public car park, I cannot see any of us getting away with that in England !
What gearbox are you using?
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beqa16v
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| posted on 15/5/13 at 04:02 PM |
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Well its not a public car park. Its a race track skid pad. Main straight is behind those buildings on the left.
The gearbox is a dog box with straight cut gears. It was based on a gearbox from this car:
Probably designing a racing gearbox from the scratch was too expensive for them in USSR.
[Edited on 15/5/13 by beqa16v]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 15/5/13 at 05:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Also check the carb tops for leakage, I used to run the same carbs, to ensure a seal I filled the groove in the carb lip with rubber lube before
seating the diaphragm.
Ditto. I had carb top leak issues, rubber lube worked a treat to hold the seal in place then help it seal when tops are screwed down.
After that basic checks at first to make sure floats are same height, needles are in same position etc etc. Once its running better you can then look
at jet sizes etc. i was lucky and found a local expert to set mine up, Dave at Boggs.
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